Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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Running a 2.8 mild cam, headers, and 40mm, I just opened up the chokes from 30 to 32 and it seems to be better than before. Just need to know if 32 is about right or do I need to open them up to 34 or 36. I only have one set so if I go to big I have to start looking to for new ones.
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
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- 11 replies
- 9.6k views
I am trying to install a choke cable on my 73 because it didn't have one installed when I bought it. I took the cable off of my 71 and thought I would install it on the 73. Then realizing the hole that the cable goes through on the 71 isn't there on my 73. Sooo..... My question is: A) Is the 71 and 73 cables different Do I have to cut a hole in the 73 to make it work. (Doesn't sound right) C) The picture with the arrow is the choke cable hole (below the CMC) and I need to find one that will work for my 73. Because it would need to be longer because the position of the hole. :stupid: I hope this makes sense and any help would be appreciated as always.
Last reply by jackneuf, -
- 10 replies
- 2.6k views
LOLNot a laughing matter folks I have a 260Z that slurps carb dampner oil I add everday. I have tried ATF, Marvel 3in1 and motor oils. At times she will idle smooth and steady and then she will shudder and pop from the exhaust Maybe I will pull the plugs and take a look even though I just did that a day or so ago. Are there supposed to be O ring seals on the caps of these carbs or just flush to the domes? They both seem to respond to adjustments and have power. Back to square one.
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
- 10 replies
- 2.1k views
I have a 71 240z I just picked up, I was going through the carbs and I noticed that the front is a 3 bolt and the rear is a 4 bolt. I also noticed that the choke on the back one doesnt pull down. Is having the different carbs going to affect anything on the way the car runs?
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 10 replies
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Which is the most practical air filter for 42DCOE's on a 2.8L 240Z? 1. Individual K&N Filters (already have these so it's the easiest for me ... just need to get a heat shield) 2. Air horn socks / covers. These appear to be simple metal mesh filters. Honestly these look 'cool' and would really show off the air horns. 3. Single large air filter assembly with integrated heat shield (about $200 + cost of air filter ... likely $300 total). 4. Other exotic 'cold air boxes', carbon filter, etc. These seems to be more applicable to racing than something for the street. I'm currently leaning towards the K&N, but that leaves me with a need for a decent heat shield o…
Last reply by Lazeum, -
- 3 replies
- 2k views
Any of you use one of those inline circular fuel pressure regulators with the rotary pressure adjustment? I used to use one... ...years back I installed an electric fuel pump and this type of fuel pressure regulator to feed dual Webers on my 4/71. Just recently while troubleshooting my car, the regulator failed, causing massive leaking. I think there is some diaphragm arrangement under the cap. Since the car has been sitting for some time, I'm having issues with rubber fitting failures. This was not a subtle leak...the pressure from the fuel hitting the cap caused a spray that covered most of the right (battery, alternator) side of the engine compartment. I was tryi…
Last reply by 5thhorsemann, -
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Trying to find a low pressure quiet reliable fuel pump for a 240z resto however; not much out there that is quiet. I was thinking that maybe lowering the pressure of a 280z FI pump may be do-able: - remove some of the cylinders in the impeller to reduce flow (item 2 below) - lower relief valve pressure (item 3 below) These mods and a good low pressure FPR up by the carb may be suitable, reliable and quiet. Any input before Count Dracula and I go down to the lab...Fun Time.
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 14 replies
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Hello classic z. New to this forum but have been a member of hybridz for awhile. I have a 75 280z that I have been piecing together over a couple years. Long story short, I am running dual webers on a 260 motor. I need to see all the pictures you have of what is the bare minimum in the bay. I have so many wiring harnesses for z's idk what goes where. Here are a couple of older pics of the car. It has came a little bit farther since. I LOVE feedback and opinions, especially on the one of stuff ive done to the car (front bumper from a cobra r mustang). I will really try and get some newer pictures soon. I will also try to get it lowered asap!!!
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 4 replies
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ok i just got myself a 260z ('74 shell with a 75' engine) it hadnt had fuel through it in about 15 years. so i removed the plugs oiled the cylenders and all the rest. and any way it started on maybe 2-3 cyl and was smoking like crazy, im putting the smoking down to oil leaking thru the valves over the years. its not runing very very rough on 4 cyl. but it still smokes and wont idle...foot to the floor to get it to run. ive worked out that all the jets are just pouring out fuel and flooding the engine. im guessing i need new needles and seats in my carbs, were can i get kits, how do i do the replacment. and could there be anyother ideas/ reasons to why my cars being a pain…
Last reply by Linguini, -
K&N filter 1 2
by Randalla- 13 replies
- 2.4k views
I see K&N makes a filter to fit the standard 240-Z air box and was wondering if anyone is running one and if there is any perceived difference in how it flows vs. the standard filter (the metal one with the holes in it). The K&N is approaching $50 and the OEM type filter retails for about $10. Since the filter is inside the air box there's no eye candy to offset the additional cost. So....any difference in performance at all???
Last reply by Oiluj, -
- 8 replies
- 1.8k views
I am restoring a 71 240z with fibreglass rear quarter panels. The installer of the panels did not remove the fuel filler line (~ 2.25" pipe) directly below the gas cap because of either laziness or because of hole size. I now wish to remove it and install it properly but I will have to cut it out as it is sandwiched at the top between the quarter panel and some inner metal . It is not pliable so I can not pull from the top or bottom (the 3 big philips screws on the back are off) Since the existing line is very hard and it seems harder than I recall on my 280z; I am hoping that a replacement part will be pliable so that I can fit properly. Does anyone know if these lines …
Last reply by chaztg, -
- 4 replies
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Hi, all. 1972 240Z, electric fuel pump, 280ZX Dizzy, otherwise dead stock on the "go" side. My little town sits about 30 feet above sea level. In a couple of weeks I plan on heading up into the Sierras for a driving around vacation. I suspect I won't be below 3000 feet most of the trip and will quite likely get up well over a mile above sea level. I seem to remember from back in the pre fuel-injection days that high altitude adjustments were necessary, or at least desirable for performance and drivability. Just using the mixture knob, what sort of adjustments should I make? A ballpark suggestion is all I'm looking for, I'm not so OCD as to retune for every 1000 foo…
Last reply by Jetaway,
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