Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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Does anyone know of a shop or individual that can tune SU carbs in central NC? I live in Asheboro, NC (south of Greensboro) and I am in dire need of tuning. Any help would be much appreciated.
Last reply by Bonzi Lon, -
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I have the opportunity to buy an engine/5speed tranny combo with complete triple SK Racing carbs on it. Guy wants $750 for everything. Tranny is a 5speed. I think the carbs alone are worth the asking price. Anyone have an SK service manual?
Last reply by chaztg, -
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I have a 260z with 3 screw carbs. It is running so rich that the fresh oil on a fresh rebuild is dirty and fuel smelling with only 2.5 hours of driveway idle time on it. Carbon fouled plugs, toxic exhaust. You get the picture. I spoke to Bruce the other day and was given some great hints. In any case I took the pistons out today to check the needle jet height and found that no matter which way you turn the mixture screw located under the carbs -all the way in either direction it seems my jet does not move. I have included some photos. I guess I am trying to understand what part of the jet is susposed to move. I assume it is the center bit, the part that is down about 3/16…
Last reply by zdude1967, -
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:finger:Pulled the tank on our 260Z in 3 hours it was not very dirty inside which is good. The sending unit also was good and since I drained 5 gallons it was right on reading a quarter tank. But this makes no sense inside rattling around was a coil spring 4 inches long and about a inch and a quarter diamenter clean as a pin.........What is it for and do I need it? I will put 3 gallons of white vinegar inside and caps all the lines into the vents etc. The new Holley pump should fix the issues because I suspect that the old pump was spitting and did not get it up to the front pump. Do I need that spring or maybe it has been in there for decades?
Last reply by LeonV, -
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Hi all Carburetors domes with 3 screws. The carburetor is different from front to back. Change the jet valve (brass body 1.7) In front of the brass body longer, and behind the short one? Thanks
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
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First, I will admit I did not check every thread to see if the info I seek is already there. But I did look and did not find it out in the open, so... First a little history; A while back I bought (rescued) a '72z in much need of TLC. The PO had removed and replaced the stock SUs and installed an MSA downdraft Holley and manifold. As my son and I were about to drive off it ocurred to me to ask "what happened to the old carbs?". "Oh, that", he said. They had removed and thrown them into a trash bin in the back yard. We sifted through the bin and collected all parts that we could. Once we got home I organized the parts and found that the connecting linkage was missing. Now,…
Last reply by al'z, -
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So I've had my 260 for a while now, and when I tuned the carbs in the past I've used a unisyn to balance and done the rest by ear. But this week I looked up more advanced ways of tuning like using a vacuum guage and using the tabs on the bottom of the carb to lift the piston.(I also tried using a colorTune but it turned out to be the most worthless thing I have ever bought, my engine was almost stalling on the road when it told me I was in the "bunson blue perfection zone") After using all these tests(besides the ridiculous colorTune) they all imply that I am too lean no matter what I do. Float bowls as rich as they will go and mixture knobs all the down. The car runs fin…
Last reply by Travel'n Man, -
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Hey guys, background on the car: 73, l24 with weber downdrafts, 280 dist. of an unknown year, Timing is at 14 at idle, and an Electric pump at the rear. Problem: Ill be cruising at freeway speeds(60-75) and the car will just lose fuel delivery. You can hear the carbs sucking in air. IT will buck as it gets the occassional taste of fuel. Ill have to limp my way over to the side of the road. Add fuel with my little 1.5gl gas can. Luckily I have made it to gas station each time. My gas guage doesnt work by the way. On top of that I only get to drive about 40-60 miles each time before this happens. Which means im only getting 6-8mpg. Im trying to get this fuel delivery probl…
Last reply by ShakotanLife, -
I'm a scientist by training so I can't resist the chance to gather data and over analyze things when I get the chance. To that end, I picked up a wideband O2 meter... Wide band It's not my intention to leave the wideband installed permanently but rather just hook it up for tuning or trouble shooting. I installed the sensor in a bung in one of the down tubes in my header. The bung had always been there, just nothing but a bolt in it till now. I left the bulk of the wiring zip tied under the hood and only ran the necessary wires for the gauge which I zip tied to the steering column for easy viewing. The installation went quickly and smoothly. After calibration I sta…
Last reply by madkaw, -
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Greetings all -- The pump on my '73 (rear electric pump, standard SU's, pretty much stock except for 280-Z distributor) has effectively given up the ghost - car ran great, then silence, followed by cursing. Dropped a new see-thru filter in and the pump could not fill it (and the pump was turning over - sound was "normal" and there was a tiny amount of gas bubbling in the filter). So -- what should I ask for - specs / makes /etc. Any info would be helpful. Steve Bloom
Last reply by Steve Bloom, -
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My 4 screw carbs are in need of some ZTherapy therapy; sizeable vacuum leaks, etc. While I am accumulating funds to make that happen, I picked up a pair of 3 screw carbs locally to have as back up, or to play with, or what have you. I took them apart, cleaned them up (followed the Just DVDs video) and decided to replace my rear carb (biggest vacuum offender!) with the 3 screw alternative. I was stunned how much better the car ran, idle was able to drop down to 700 to 800 rpm (could never get it below 1100), smooth acceleration, etc. Well, being reasonably stupid, I thought I would replace the front 4 screw carb with the 3 screw and make it run better, right? Wrong!! …
Last reply by Duffman, -
- 4 replies
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WoHooooo There may be hope for my su's yet. After struggling in the fall with various problem with my 4 screw su's. I had to run them rich so as to get rid of a surging at constant throttle and miss at wot then the car smelled of exhaust at idle and low speeds. When it was missing at wot if I just backed off on the throttle a little it would pick up and rev to 7000 ( I have a fairly modified 2.8). I looked at converting to injection or holley 4bbl and had discussing this with some of you. When I got the car it had dvg's on it. I converted it to 4screws that I rebuilt with zero play in the shafts. For air breathers i took the small elements fron the dgv's built flat bases…
Last reply by Travel'n Man,
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