Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
Subforums
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1,458 topics in this forum
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Saw this referred to over in the Help Me! forum. Didn't seem to be relevant to the thread and I have no emergency so I thought I'd ask here: What is a Grose Jet? And why is it apparently a better choice than a needle valve for carbs? Chris
Last reply by Jetaway, -
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- 6 replies
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My car has started running very rough once warmed up - almost to a shut down point at higher rpms - rechecked my floats and they were dead on - I deceided to plug my return fuel line and that fixed the problem. Full rpm's and great responce at any speed and rpm. Here is my challange - I would rather have my return fuel line doing it's job and my railing not getting hot with sitting fuel in the railing. 1) What would have caused this error in my fuel system 2) Is it safe to maintain a plugged fuel return line I just finished a 20 mile drive and as soon as I got back in my garage I felt the fuel rail for temp - the rear section (closest to the firewall) was the hottes…
Last reply by ajmcforester, -
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Just bought a set of rebuilt triple Mikuni 40 pph. About to buy some accessories on Pierce Manifolds, air filters, horns, heatshield, etc. Will any Weber Dcoe accessories fit my Mikuni ? Any recommendations ?
Last reply by spitz17, -
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I bought an SU carb setup to install in place of the current 4bbl setup. I have rounded up almost all the parts to do the swap, but am missing one of the bolts and wingnut to attach the housing. I need the 'connector bolt' that holds the backing plate to the carb that the wingbolt screws into, as well as the wingbolt and washer with the seal. One set came with the air cleaner housing and I need one more. I searched and found this thread - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28321&highlight=air+filter which reports they are no longer available through the dealer. I live in the Ft Worth area, and have checked with All Z's, but he does not have any.…
Last reply by Diseazd, -
- 3 replies
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I broke out my Mikunis to look them over for the future install on my Z. I wanted to check out jet sizes and such to get my base line for future tweeks. I went thru great trouble to gasket match my SU's to my e88 before install and thought I would do the same for the Mikuni set-up. But WOW, i couldn't believe what I saw when I layed an extra intake gasket against the manifold. Am I missing something here or is this right? That is a huge difference-not sure what to do here guys, I just seem baffled over this. These are 40phhs by the way. Comments please.....
Last reply by 240ZGL, -
- 31 replies
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Well I took advantage of the dyno while at Zcon this year and I am looking for advice based on my chart. The engine is hardly broke in with 800 miles, but it was running great so I thought I would see some numbers. I am very happy with the numbers based on what little time i got to fine tune. As you can see from the chart I ran lean at about 5200 with my SU's with SM needles. I am also suprised at the richness at the lower rpms since I did so well with my MPG on the way here. I did have a richness problem on the front SU before I left and I'm not sure what exhaust pipe they were reading off of. I thought the HP and torque #'s were good for the 2.4(.40 over) and the stag…
Last reply by tlorber, -
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I've reviewed the posts and can't find the answer. I'm wanting to change the electric fuel pump on my 73 Z to a Mazda RX7 fuel pump. What year Mazda rx7 pump should I get. Thanks in advance for your help.
Last reply by beandip, -
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Well, I just got my colortune in the mail and it confirms exactly what I already knew. I am rich, even with the adjustment knob all the way up on the front carb. Oh, this is on 3 screw 72 round tops Last night I checked the valve lash while hot and only had to adjust a couple of valves from the cold setting. The float seems to be set right at 23 mm from the bottom of the lid. I also synced them at 1500 and 700 rpm. This evening I tried tuning with the gunson and got the rear carb right where I want it. Even the lift the pin method is showing good on it. The front carb is another story. Even though it is rich I can only get it to run good at 1.5 - 2 turns out. I can't g…
Last reply by whamo, -
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Just wondering do most of you run return spill lines off your su carbs? I have no return on my su carbs on my land rover - thats how i bought it. Had some trouble with vapour lock but new insulated fuel lines and stopped that. Looking at running a return line - do i need to or not? Do i have to have one or do the floats act as regulators and therefore do away with a spill line. If i do run one does the bore need to be less than that of the fuel line itself. running 8mm fuel line so does that mean i'd have to run a 6mm spill? The set up is twin tanks to a fuel switch then to a low pressure electric fuel pump up to carb 1 then onto carb 2. Advice would be great. thanks
Last reply by tlorber, -
- 3 replies
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Hi All, I have done some searches but i need info asap, my fuel pump is going out and i need a replacement for a triple carbed l28. I mainly need to know what is the recommended psi and GPH that i need to run effectively without regulator. With that said would a pump that puts out 4-6 psi at 32 GPH be too much for the carbs without regulator? Thanks in advance
Last reply by mlc240z, -
- 5 replies
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Hi everyone. i just recieved my unisyn and have started tuning my engine in preperation for appraisal, insurance and hopefully driving next week. 280 short block E31 head ported with large valves, mild cam. header and SU's. I put kits in the carbs, have set the float level with clear tubing. That alone made a huge difference. I can reach in thru the window and the car starts right up and idles at 800 rpm. The throttle response seem crisp and instant. The problem is when I set the unisny on the rear carb and adjust it so the ball is in the middle then I put it on the front carb it does not move unless I turn in the front idle speed screw and the rpm goes up to 2000. I have…
Last reply by racer88, -
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I recently cracked the breather outlet on the driver side. It was a result of storing too much in the spare tire well (too much weight, thin steel flexing from hitting a bump, hitting the outlet) So my 2 remedy suggestions (aisde from not storing anything in the well ever again) eliminating this outlet Is it possbile to completely remove this vent outlet and seal the hole off leaving only the 2 vent outlets on the top most portion of the tank? spacing the fuel tank I was thinking of using ".250 harder durometer rubber and placing that between the top of the tank and the spare tire well to create more clearance if i choose to leave the outlet. (hopefully this would be t…
Last reply by Troutman,
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