Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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Anyone got the size/thread of this lil guy handy? It doesn't seal well, and it looks like it should have a washer and/or crush gasket. The flatter, wider hex-head looking part below the plug head is part of the tank, not the plug.
Last reply by BTF/PTM, -
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- 4 replies
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OK, here's one for Bruce and our other resident SU experts. First the preface; today I was finally able to take the z to meet a fellow forum member (Motorman7) for some carb tuning lessons. Well, the good news is we didn't find anything wrong with the float levels, didn't find any damage to needles or seats and we didn't have to do much adjusting at all to get both carbs idling smoothly. Bad news is, we found an air leak at the back carburetor that was audible when the Uni-Syn tool was on that carb. Now the problem; the back carb is running quite rich and is fouling the three back spark plugs in very short intervals. Now the hypothesis; it is supposed that, since the…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 3 replies
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I am researching swapping out my '73 carbs on my 240z, to earlier '70 carbs for better performance. I believe I will need to change the intake manifolds (going from square, to round ports?)? Is this correct? Also, as far as the choke cable. I will need to replace this? Correct? While considering this what swap might I also need to change some other components (delete some smog controls...live in Wisconsin) as I am sure some of you have more knowledge then me. I NEED YOUR INPUT. Aside, in the future I hope to replace the head to an N42, as I believe it to be the simplest (bolt on upgrade) from stock.
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
- 21 replies
- 9.9k views
I recently posted about the differences between the 3-screw and the 4-screw SU carb sets that I have, and I have a new question. Someone recently pointed out that the 4-screw carbs are easier to adjust becuz the 3-screw carbs have part of a linkage bar that protrudes out over the float bowl covers thus making it difficult to remove those covers for cleaning or adjustment. My car is running on the 3-screw carbs, it runs well enough but the back carb is fouling all three plugs and the car smells like it's running very rich. I have no idea when the 4-screw carbs were last run, so they'd definitely need to be disassembled and cleaned before using them. My question is, shoul…
Last reply by JohnnyO, -
- 5 replies
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72 240 - Original engine I need some advice about a problem that has recently started with my Z. It starts fine with minimal choke and runs well (throttle response is very good) until after driving for about 30 minutes to an hour. Engine temp is still normal, but after turning off the engine it's hard to restart. Also it starts to stall and not pick up RPM's when applying throttle. When this happens if I pull the choke the engine runs well again and it makes the problem go away. But after using the choke to avoid the stall, it gets even worse. I don't have a lot of experience with the SU's. What do you guys think? Any help would be very appreciated.
Last reply by jwc11170, -
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hi guys a friend of mine just bought a 260z and he's thinking of making the EFI conversion, but we need your help with a list of the things that wee need so, if you can list the parts, opinions, comments would be very helpfull thanks!
Last reply by beezee, -
I am having one heck of a time getting my 240 tuned up. I have a 72 with 3 screw SU's, and E88 intake manifold, pertronix ignition set to 17 btdc, and new NGK plugs gapped to .032". On top of that I have replaced my fuel filter, added all new rubber lines, and thoroughly blown out the hard lines. Also, I have 20 wt oil in the dashpots. Before I figured out Bruce at Ztherapy was the way to go I picked up some GP Sorensen carb rebuild kits and replaced all of the seals in my carbs, cleaned the screens and reset the float bowls per the rebuild kit instructions. Which at the time said 14.28 mm, this allowed my car to run with the choke open, but I could never get the car set…
Last reply by hogie, -
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hello all, I am a fellow Belgian 260Z owner. My 260Z is overall in very good condition, it runs well at all speeds but I notice a large lag when revving at lower speeds. After browsing to these forums, I decided to ditch the Flat Top carbs and replace them with proper SU´s. Because my engine is fairly stock, I will not go for triple webers. - I will order the 260Z SU conversion kit from this guy: http://www.paltech1.com/ this is way cheaper than over here in Belgium. It would cost me over 900 dollars (euro). Any way, I would like to know what I can remove and where to put the cables after doing the conversion. I added a picture of my engine bay.
Last reply by H3nrY, -
Ok I recently bought a set of Dellorto 40 carbs for my 240z.. Then engine is a stock L28E long block with headers and exhaust. I need to know what should be the correct jetting for these, Im trying to find out what the ballpark figures should be before i bolt them up and have drivabilty issues.. I know its not really possible to say what exact sizes should be used do to sea level, location and the weather but i think any experienced tuner could give ball park figures to work with. With all that said the carbs are Tuned with 32 chokes, 57 idle jets, 132 main jet, 180 air correction jet, 38 pump jet and #11 emulsion tube and 5 progression holes.. How does this setup so…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 14 replies
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After 2.5 weeks of waiting, my new carbs have arrived! I decided recently that I needed to kick start things with the Z and do something to get me excited about working on the Z again (although the sun coming out really helps lately), so I called up Ztherapy and ordered a new set of carbs and a new balance tube. Next week is dead week and finals the week after that, so it's likely that I won't be swapping anything till spring break. Until then I'll just have to enjoy looking at these beauties.
Last reply by JonnyRock, -
- 9 replies
- 3k views
I have yet to dig into the wonderful world of SU carbs and have a general question. What does it mean when a carb is lightly smoking? Right now, the carb closest to the firewall (I believe that is considered the rear carb, please correct me if Im wrong), smokes at idle. Its very light, and I can see just small wasps of white smoke. What does this indicate? There isnt any backfiring, and the car runs well. No hesitation and excellent drive-ability. According to my A/F ratio gauge, I'm running just slightly rich (exhaust mounted wideband o2 sensor). Any help/insight as to what this indicates would be greatly appreciated.
Last reply by TBone028, -
- 9 replies
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I purchased and watched the ZT DVD Friday evening. That DVD is very informative and thorough. I felt very confident disassembling my carbs and getting them up to spec. The float bowls were very dirty and the floats tabs had the floats sitting at the very top of the cover (no wonder this car was barely running). I had them completely cleaned, adjusted and running in about two hours. I followed the sync instructions which is the same procedure as I used 25 years ago. I also got the same result that I got 25 years ago; I found that the engine runs smoothest at an idle rpm of 1,000. I started with the mixture knobs set at 2-1/2 turns out and the high-speed balance screw on th…
Last reply by Gary in NJ,
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