Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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I'm having my 1971 240z's engine rebuilt and I noticed that the person working on the car replaced my 4-screw carbs with 3-screw ones. Are the 3-screw carbs better? Should I tell him to put the 4-screw carbs back on?
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
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I am pretty determined to keep my newly acquired '73 240Z original and run the flat tops (AKA boat anchors). Initially, the car idled real well but coughed all the way up the power band. With a little study on the threads here, it sounded like the issue was the small pump on the side of the carbs. Sure enough, took these both apart and cleaned out the 'jelly' in the forward carb and the operation was much improved. (The rear carb side pump looked to be in good shape). Float bowls were both at the proper levels. The car now idles beautifully, works well when accelerating hard, works well when choked; but seems to have an intermittent miss when running at c…
Last reply by motorman7, -
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Topic says it. I can rev the he** out of the engine when warm and idling but if i put gear on and release clutch, it barely moves and dies almost instant. I got to have at least 3K rpms to move it a bit.. need help quick! Edit: i probably posted this on the wrong place. Can it be rear brakes that cause this? They are totally stuck.
Last reply by Reverend, -
su adjustment 1 2
by racer88- 23 replies
- 4.2k views
Hi everyone i have 4 screw round top su's on my 260 with 280 engine. I have read everything i can find on su carbs and how to adjust them. I have rebuilt them,checked to make sure there is no throttle bushing play. Set the float level by backing out the nozzles 10 turns set the needle height by lossening the srew and setting the piston down onto the fully raised nozzle made sure the nozzles return to normal position when choke is released. My problem is if I raise the nozzle with the mixture nut on the front carb all the way up with the engine running it runs smoother. If I do that on the rear carb it starts to run rough. The rear carb likes the nozzle about 1 3/4 turns d…
Last reply by racer88, -
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but can someone identify this carburetion system for me and if it's a vintage upgrade? TIA
Last reply by sblake01, -
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Hi all, I'm about to get my car started and I need damper oil for my carbs but NAPA, AutoZone, and Shucks all don't have it. I went to a local import auto shop and they told me that I could just use normal transmission oil. Is this correct? Or should I just order SU carb damper oil from the BD catalog? Thanks, John
Last reply by Z-Luke, -
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It seems to me like there is way too much force required to push up my carb plungers. How hard should it be to push? On my motorcycle its way easier to push up. My car has initially good power when the throttle is cracked by then doesn't want to go, like the throttle isn't open. I think it might be the plungers going up and letting enough air in.
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
- 6 replies
- 2.8k views
What's the difference? My '72 currently has 3-screw SU's on its L28, and the second engine I have (F54/P90) has 4-screw SU's on it. Oh, and I'm referring to the number of screws holding the domes in place.
Last reply by ajmcforester, -
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Ok i got this box with my Z when i purchased it last fall. I suppose it contains all (?) of the parts needed in 240z carbs. Needles are bent, but there's 2 new ones. I was wondering is there all the parts needed? And what might be value of these? In what price Ztherapy rebuilds this to new glory? I gotta check is there anyone here in Finland who rebuilds old SU carbs..
Last reply by zKars, -
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Found this while trolling CL tonight. Not sure if anyone is interested. http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/wsh/pts/1662792468.html John
Last reply by JohnnyO, -
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So I filled the tank full for the first time after discovering the level sender has a problem when the car ran outta fuel while still reading nearly full. Previous owner had the tank hot tanked n new lines fitted including the filler neck, but the sender seal is original. It leaks badly, it's a steady stream of fuel that I traced with a flashlight to that seal. It looks like I can replace this seal with the tank still in the car if I pull the right rear wheel - is this a fair assessment, or should I gear up for dropping the tank? Also, is this seal still available, or should I plan on making a gasket?
Last reply by BTF/PTM, -
- 8 replies
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My '73 240z has a 2.8L engine, a Clifford intake manifold, and an Eldelbrock 1406 4bbl carb. Up until last weekend, it ran like a dream. Then I had a very rough time getting it started (although it would start and run on ether). By enriching the idle needles, it would start and idle well but it doesn't want to run above about 2,000 RPM. It doesn't much like throttle blipping either. I changed the gas line filter (this had been a problem before) and this changed nothing. I checked the fuel pressure (Eldelbrock electric pump) and I was getting 6psi. Since the car is only run about once a month and its a long time between tankfulls, I'm fearful of bad gas or junk clog…
Last reply by draztik280,
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