Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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Any1 kno where I can get a gasket only set for weber dcoe carbs? I got a banjo that's leaking
Last reply by strangethursday, -
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- 3 replies
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When I was putting the su's back together, I put a bit of grease on the needle to lube it. But, it occurred to me that may not be a good idea, because any grease stuck in the nozzle or on the needle will affect the mixture profile. It seems like the fuel will dissolve the grease pretty fast. However, the precision of the needle ground makes me think it might still have an effect that will decrease over time. Further, it seems like a non-oil-based lubricant could have a long lasting effect on the carburetor performance. Does anyone have any thoughts? Am I missing something?
Last reply by Tony D, -
- 6 replies
- 1.7k views
I have adjusted the valves, adjusted for timing chain stretch. Car seems to run fine when stationary. I have balanced the carbs and I'm now trying to adjust the fuel mixture. I have started at 2 1/2 turns out. My problem is that if I rev the engine slow to medium it seems to rev up fine. If I rev it fast from idle it backfires out of the front SU. If it does in the back SU, it is hardly noticable. I've tried adjusting by turning quarter turns in one direction and if it didn't work I went the other way. I can't seem to find a happy medium. My question is: What am I missing. I have the ZTherapy video but it doesn't really disscuss troubleshooting.
Last reply by turbo 260, -
- 5 replies
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Might be a good deal for an L-24 build. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Weber-Triple-40-DCOE-Carburators_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33550QQihZ006QQitemZ160146271108QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Would this intake fit a set of Mikuni 44's as well or would it have to be ported out? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cannon-manifold-for-Weber-40-DCOE-Carburators_W0QQitemZ160146272908QQihZ006QQcategoryZ33550QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Last reply by gogriz91, -
- 6 replies
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similar to this one, except of course with the lines still in. I've searched the archives here for a few hours over the past couple of weeks & found some that are close, but I'm hoping someone can give me one that is at the same angle as the one I've taken of my engine area. I took my fuel lines/brake lines to get replated. Now I can't find my diagram to specify which lines go in what groove in the bracket. I don't need a restoration photo, just preferably one with the motor out. I just need to clarify that I've got my ducks in a row before I climb under there tonight &/or in the morning. I know, I could figure it out but it's been so hot here lately I am t…
Last reply by dkd021, -
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I just realized that the unmarked (by unmarked I mean clearly labeled and ignored) device on the carburetor side of the valve cover is a pressure regulator. The regulator isn't exactly late model and it doesn't look like a Nissan part. And, I doubt that I'll be able to find too much information on it. Should I keep it or ditch it? If I should keep it, will it fail and how will I know? It's got numbers 1-5 with tick marks in between. I assume that these are psi. Is there any other unit they could be? rods/hogshead, etc. It's set to 2.5 at the moment, which makes me think it is psi, because I've heard 2-4 psi is a good number for fuel pressure. The car has the flat…
Last reply by Zsomething, -
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Hey, I have been having some trouble my SU Carbs Bogging out. Help! My 1973 240Z with Round Top SU's is bogging out and sometimes stalling on acceleration with low engine RPM's. Pulling the choke on helps to aleviate this condition while accelerating up to highway speed. The engine runs great driving at higher RPMs (ie) 60 - 80 mph....or higher when the road is clear....it runs up to 120 mph...tail wind on nice level highway. When I slow down to make a turn and try to accelerate after making the turn, the engines sputters and boggs untill I pull on the choke and then it will hook up and accelerate smoothly. The engine sometimes back fires, boggs, coughs in this situation.…
Last reply by Nismo49, -
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Hi all... Latest in my slew of apparently simple questions has to do with tuning the SU carbs. I had the carbs on my '70 240Z rebuilt, *supposedly* tuned by idiot mechanic, and now husband and I wanted to 'practice' using the synchrotester. Well, outside of the fact that the 'better' synchrotester by MSA is flimsy (read: broke), the carbs were vastly out of whack (front read 3 at idle, rear read 17). I ordered a uni-sys (sp) through the local O'Reilly auto store (a lot cheaper than MSA, even though its the same brand). Outside of the scary fact that the guys at O'Reilly had no idea what the thing was, I expected to be able to sync the carbs. Digressing back to question: h…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 10 replies
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I picked up a stock '72 air cleaner from the junkyard over the weekend with the idea that I could reuse or resell it. Downside, the cover is mangled at the front, the 'snout' was crunched when the car it came out of was HAMMERED into something. The core support and radiator actually came that far back. ...the baseplate, on the other hand, is untouched. I've got english style 'mushroom' air cleaners on the carbs right now, and they've got a opening smaller than the carb throats themselves(horrible!). They don't have an integral venturi, and my understanding is it's rather dumb to run SU style carbs without them. My idea is to cut the baseplate using a Dremel to remove th…
Last reply by e_racer1999, -
- 19 replies
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I just bought a '73 240z and it runs rough. The previous owner says it need a (flat top) carburetor tune-up. It idles ok after it is warmed up. But, somewhere around 2,000-3,500 rpms it starts to sputter and pop. The previous owner mentioned that he put a new distributer on the car. So, I figured that I should check the timing. I monkeyed with it a bit and settled on 10 degrees advance then a cranked the tightening screw down (and realized that it was loose before, which seems to me like it could have caused some problems at higher than idle rpms). In the process of checking the timing, I pulled the plugs and checked the air filter. The air filter is very dirty and smells…
Last reply by mbc, -
- 10 replies
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A question for you guys. I was posting on zcar.com about tuning SU's. It was mentioned by someone that you must have the vent hose from the bowls connected to the stock air cleaner so that the pressure balance is correct. So I asked what do people do if they have chrome air cleaners. They were not built with any kind of tube to attach the hose. He said they have to attach one. Here is my question. If that is the case has anyone here done that? I don't remember seeing it done before on cars that I have seen with chrome air cleaners. Another questions I have is since the carb needs an airhorn and they are not supplied with the air cleaner, what have you used instead? From w…
Last reply by e_racer1999, -
- 10 replies
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Hey I've been having this problem with my Zed. When I start up my car in the morning when the Z is cold it will fire right up without a problem. After I drive it around and gets to normal operating temperature I park and turn it off, and if I Turn it on within five minutes it starts right up. If I Leave it for about 10 minutes, then come back and try starting it, it wont start unless I give it some gas. If I don't give it some gas it will just sputter and then turn off. Any ideas on what causes this, and how I can fix this. I own a 73' 240Z and the carbs were replaced with 72' 240Z carbs.
Last reply by albert_ey,
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