Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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I have finished rebuilding two 4 screw SU carbs. In the manual, it indicates that the needles should be flush with the piston surface. However, I've been advised to leave a fraction of the needle shoulder, 1/16th of an inch, still visible. Anyone have an opinion?
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
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- 2 replies
- 3.6k views
Where can I find some gross jets?
Last reply by Arne, -
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- 4k views
I don't know if this is the right forum to ask this question. I'm trying to find out where the fuel filter is located on a 72 240z. I tried searching for it with no luck.
Last reply by beandip, -
- 22 replies
- 3.3k views
just now getting to work on my '74 260 2 + 2 that has been sitting for the last 20 years untouched. i know that i have to deal with the carbs right off. being new to this, i read where the carbs i have are not good, even if they were in working condition. i figure being all gumed up, dried out, i would be better off to just change them out. looking at z therapy, they reccomend the things be junked and swapped out, going back to the original 240 set up, and it looks really good. then i look at another route of going with the manifold adaptor and 4 barrell carb, which is going to be about the same amount of money. this would do away with the manual choke if i understa…
Last reply by sleepyzzz, -
- 11 replies
- 2k views
Hi, I have a 260z 2+2 with the origonal engine but with 240z carbs.......im changing the engine to an l28 but want to keep the carbs. is it just a matter of putting my origonal manifold and carbs onto the l28 or is there more to it. thanks in advance, Jay.
Last reply by beandip, -
- 5 replies
- 4.4k views
I have a 74 260Z that I recently bought 240 carbs for, to replace the original and poor performing flat-tops. My engine and compartment are quite clean. Anyone know a way or product to remove the oxidation from the carbs and give a nice polished look to the ones I will be installing? I believe I will need thinner insulators. Is that correct and if so why? The filter housing I got with the 240 carbs is in poor appearance condition while my original flat-top filter box is in very good condition. I would therefor like to use that filter box. I know I would need adapter plates. Would using adapters and the other filter box (with different shaped air horns) not have a ne…
Last reply by nwcubsman, -
- 11 replies
- 1.9k views
When I got my car I noticed near the alternator a hard line with a deteriorated rubber cap on it. It was leaking fuel slightly. I figured it was a return line for the stock setup (car came with tripple DCOEs). The DCOE setup doesn't have a way for me to hook the return back up. I just put a new cap on it & left it alone for the time being. My new problem comes when I park the car for extended periods of time. The system builds pressure until fuel starts coming out of the filters. Now I have to open the gas cap when I park which is working for now but, I don't always remember to do it. Last time I left the cap on over the weekend & when I opened it a big gush a gas…
Last reply by strangethursday, -
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I dropped the tank on my '73 bacause it kept sucking gunk into the carb. I have the tank out and ready to be rebuilt/treated but was wondering about the numerous vent lines. Is there an easy way to replace the vent lines that go into the body of the car? Are there any modifications to the tank that could be done to remove the vent lines? Any and all input welcome. JT
Last reply by J.T., -
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Roundtop SUs on a 73 240Z with 280 degree Racer Brown cam. Stock distributor with Pertronix ignition and coil. Do I want my vacuum advance connected to manifold vac or ported vac? I currently have a problem with hot idle, wonder if it is just lack of vacuum advance at idle? How are y'all plumbed?
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
- 14 replies
- 3k views
I have just purchased a 1971 240z with an l28 engine I found a vacume leak at the base gasket of my front su now i have fixed it my z wont run right it is like it is running on 5 cylinders but no mater what lead you pull of it makes no diference and it is blowing lots of black smoke i am guesing it is runing rich but i dont know how to lean it out? I know stuff all about su carbs (round tops) if you could think of any other thing it could be please help?
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
- 1 reply
- 2.1k views
I am looking for a carb body for my weber 40 dcoe 151, and was wondering what other model number carb would have the same body as mine. I bought two on ebay, but after I got them, I realized they are different than mine. My 151 carb has a white cap on both sides near the mixture screws that cover a jet of some sort( air correction?). Any info would be helpful. THANKS, JEFF
Last reply by HKSZ, -
- 10 replies
- 1.8k views
Ebay roundtops aparently from 72, with water chambers at the bottom of the carbs. Motor is stock 73 with Schneider 270 degree cam, pertronix ignition. Smog all stripped, water supplied to carbs and manifold. Stock exhaust. Mechanical fuel pump. All seems to be going well, but I am having trouble getting a stable idle when hot. Have the Ztherapy video, but no idea how to tell which needles are installed. How low should I be able to idle with a 270 degree cam? I made a larger heat shield thinking that I was cooking the float bowls after a hard run. It will idle all day in the driveway, but first stoplight after the mountains and the idle slowly drops until it dies if I don'…
Last reply by wfl_colorado,
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