Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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I have a set of 40DCOE Triple Weber carburetors on an E42 head. They work fine and haven't had to retune them after buying the car from the previous owner just last year. My brother had just cleaned them out and everything still works fine. I'm debating whether or not I should sell these and invest in a set of ZTherapy's. My car does feel very powerful with the Webers but it eats heaps of gas. Since mine is only a street car (occasional track), I'm willing to sacrifice some power for more mileage. How much power do these Webers give if tuned properly, and how much power do ZT's give? If you guys think I should sell my Webers for the ZT's, how much would they sell fo…
Last reply by Rick, -
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- 10 replies
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I picked these up in Sumas, Wa this morning. Thought it was time to change out the flat top Hitachi's. Now, will an amateur who has the ZTherapy video and rebuild kit be able to break his carb virginity, or is it best to send it to the professionals for refurbishing? (along with $600 US) BTW, what would a set of these be worth? Roughly.
Last reply by Victor Laury, -
K&N Filter 1 2
by bpilati- 14 replies
- 2.6k views
I just installed a new K&N filter, and I think my car run a bit better now. SU's are certainly not winter carbs, but I think it's running noticeably better then before.
Last reply by bpilati, -
- 15 replies
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I took my thermostat housing off today and noticed that there is another outlet (other than to the rad) on it, which has been welded up. I looked around and it seems like it should go to my intake manifold (N36), which has no water lines to/from it. There is also another pipe welded off on the other side. This all points to my intake not currently being cooled. What's going on??? Why would anyone (eg PO) want to do that to my intake? Could the cooling jacket be blocked or something? Is this just a cold running emmissions control thing or does it actually help when engine is warm too? I've never had any problems running when it gets hot, but it does hesitate when it's…
Last reply by =Enigma=, -
- 6 replies
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I bought a SU rebuild kit. I took the carbs completely apart cleaned everything. Put on the new parts and put everything back together. The pistons move at the same speed. The needles and the seats match up perfectly. The pistons go all the way down. The floaters are parallel to the lid. So there ready to be installed right? If not what’s left? What fluid do I add into the top part of the carbs? How do I know if they’re both functioning the same when I put them on?
Last reply by kenz240z, -
- 3 replies
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i pulled my fuel tank months ago and had it hottanked to get the crud out of it. the fuel sender was pulled in the process and after reinstalling it in the tank and the tank in the car, gas leaks when the level reaches the height of the sender. i reinstalled the same o-ring (maybe a bad idea?) and the retaining ring. i didn't see any indication of a problem prior to reinstalling but the gas leak is obvious i'm off track. any help?
Last reply by clutchdust, -
- 9 replies
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stock '71 L24... The latest problem: I've got puff of smoke popping out of the SU closest to the radiator. The other is fine. Both air/gas screws were tightened, then brought out 3 full turns. I've changed the points (gap .016-.018), cap, wires, plugs. Did not pull the rotor out. The pistons in the carbs do move up and down, the fouled carb does move just a barley easier than the other that's closer to the cab. The symptoms before this would-be-easy endeavor: First the engine would die when I exit the highway. Then when driving casually the rpm would totally stop, as if the motor lost spark, then pick right up again. After this, about a day later, some mean backfiring. I…
Last reply by kenz240z, -
- 5 replies
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Trying to find out what part is misssing on my spare set of SU carbs What is missng and what does it do !!!!!!
Last reply by kenz240z, -
- 5 replies
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I got this wierd issue with my su's during warm up. With the choke on and the car started my front carb has excessive vacuum while the rear has none at all. Car runs like crap till it warms up then everything is fine. Both carbs are sync'd and pull the same amount of air when at operating temp. Anyone had this issue before? Thanks for the help.
Last reply by beandip, -
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The car I bought has 4-screw SU's and the '72-type intake manifold with ports for coolant to enter and exit. See thumbnails. I'm wondering if, for sure, all 4-screw SU's are earlier than the heated models. In other words, is there such a thing as a 4-screw SU with passages for the coolant. If my carbs lack those passages, is there any point at all to routing coolant into the manifold? The car might in fact run a little cooler if I simply closed off the ports--larger percentage of the total coolant then sitting in the radiator. ?? Thanks for any thoughts. Looked at ZTherapy photos but couldn't quite determine about the 4-screws.
Last reply by SteveInOakland, -
- 7 replies
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I have a friend of a friend selling a pair of Weber DGVs, atleast I think that's what he's got. He said he has a pair of Weber carbs for an early Z car. My question is, what should I look for when examining these for quality and completness? Is there special throttle linkage hardware I'm going to need or do they use the throttle linkage from the stock manifold? What other special pieces are needed for the install, if any? Are there any spots or components I should look at with regards to wear, deterioration etc. Lastly, and probably a very subjective topic well covered here, does it make sense to even consider these over the earlier round-top SUs I already have on my 73?…
Last reply by mimregi, -
- 19 replies
- 8k views
Since my ac compressor won't allow the use of a OEM air cleaner, I am looking at using the dual ITG air cleaner setup w/ air horns. Anybody using this setup? Got pics? Thanks.
Last reply by jmark,
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