Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,662 topics in this forum
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- 6 replies
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I've got a nice heated garage to work in this Winter and I plan on taking my car apart piece by piece from front to back and cleaning it up the fender wells, underside, back side of the fenders, etc and coating with a rust preventive paint. I've already taken the front fenders off and I'm ready to clean the little bit of surface rust along some of the edges.. I've used POR15 products such as marine clean and metal ready for years. They are non-harzardous, but without ventilation, the POR15 paint will probably kill me! Does anyone know of a rust preventive paint that is safe to use indoors? I did find this stuff with a google search, but I never tried it and don't know whe…
Last reply by cozye, -
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- 4 replies
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I'm finding that my "100% rust free" 280z 2+2 I bought a couple of weeks ago isn't so rust free. All four of the ends of the frame rails where prior owner probably placed jacks and scratched the metal are pretty much rusted to pieces. However, at least the entire rest of the bottom of the car (eg, floor boards, trany tunnel, outriggers/cross members, etc) are completely free of rust. I have to keep reminding myself this thing was built 36 years ago and there has to be some rust. My first question is, in light of the above rusted frame rails, where would be the best spot to place jack stands? The jack stands I typically use on my vehicles are kind of big, heavy duty ones …
Last reply by LeonV, -
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I am in need of a RHD latch and cable for my 74 Fairlady, does anyone here know where I might find one. I have contacted the Australia Z car club but have had no luck as of yet. Thanks, Travis
Last reply by spitz17, -
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I've recently painted my 280 with a single stage paint over epoxy primer and since it was my first real paint job, got some orange peel. I've sanded it all down (no more orange peel) sanded with 600, then 1000, then 1500 and 2000, buffed with Mother's heavy cut with a variable speed rotary and up close still see fine sanding scratches, I'm kinda at a loss as to what to do any help will be appreciated.
Last reply by palosfv3, -
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I've pretty much thrown in the towel regarding finding good used rubber bumper ends for my 76 280z 2+2 and new ones are just too pricey. For those that have done the conversion to the fiberglass air dams w/ bumper detail and matching rear one, do you have any installation instructions and experience you could share with me. For example, is there a lot of grinding of the fiberglass to make a good fit or do they come pretty well fitting? How do they connect (eg, bolt on somehow to the old bumper brackets or bond them on, etc) Taking the front bumper shocks off looks easy enough, but do I need to take the rear bumper shocks off to get them out of the way or can I collapse th…
Last reply by Healeyalt, -
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Well, here's one for group. Finally got my new suspension and tires on my 1972 240Z, and after "spirited" but safe driving, have tire rubber bits and dust coating the sides of the car and lower panels. Was looking for the easiest and least harmful way to remove the melted residue without scrubbing off the paint. Heard WD40 works, but was looking for the least destructive way to remove residue after driving. I'm sure guys that track their cars have a way of dealing with this, as their cars always look great. Thanks, Andy
Last reply by ollie, -
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Just getting ready to paint my ground-up (I know, it sounds like what you do to cheap cuts of meat or the gears on very old Ford trucks, but then a 240Z can't be a "frame-up" resto, given it has no frame; can it?) restoration. I have the original orange paint code, but I'm getting conflicting signals on the rear finisher, that is to say the exterior metal panel that covers the rear vertical surface and frames the tail lights. I've been told that it's just flat black, but others have said it should have a silver tinge to it. Also the grille - I've got two and they both look flat black to me, but then 40 years does funny things to paint. Are they supposed to have any sh…
Last reply by Arne, -
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I have a 1983 280ZX 2 seater. Currently it is gold with a tan interior. I am going to have it painted and am redoing the interior. I am pretty sure that I am going to redo the interior black, with maybe a contrasting color to make it pop. However I am not sure about the exterior color. I am going to keep the car pretty much stock for the time being. I am not certain about the current gold paint. If I do change the color I was thinking about viper blue with white racing stripes, or possibly silver with white stripes, similar to the new SS camaro. I was just trying to see what others thought. I know only I can decide if I like the current color which is ok, but I think it m…
Last reply by memphisheat, -
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Does anyone know of a place that might have used ones for sale? (eg; Datsun Z salvage yards, etc) It looks like there are still some places that sell them new, but they want almost $300 each for them. That being the case, I now know why I see so many Zs with fiberglass or urethane air dams/bumper conversions, which would be much less expensive. And I think the bumper end caps for a 1975 and 1976 are the same. Thanks or any help or suggestions Gary
Last reply by grantf, -
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Okay I have decided that my car can really use fender flares to help with tire clearance. I really like the style that MSA has listed; http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/7BSA02 ;but wonder if anyone else sells them? I have tried numerous searches and really don't come up with anything or anyone else except for these other two: http://www.zccjdm.com/viewitem.php/azcarbum/pd1859595/240Z-280Z_-_S20Z_ZG_JDM-_FENDER_FLARES. and http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html I guess I just like to have options and would like to know I have exhausted all other options. Any suggestions for who else may have them would be greatly appreciated.
Last reply by Montezuma, -
- 12 replies
- 5.1k views
I ran two strips of peel and seal inside the door panel. I figured the vapor barrier would keep the smell out. It made a noticeable difference in the "tap" test. I forgot to do the right side door before installing the window mechanism, however, I easily installed it afterwords simply with the window rolled up.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Here are some details on how I attacked the fume leaks and noise: 1. For sealing obvious holes,I used a commonly available (tough as hell) tape from the housing industry that is used to fasten and seal vapor barrier membranes on the inside and outside of homes. It is designed to stick from -40C to +40C and is very tough to tear or stretch. In Canada we often refer to it as Tyvek tape however, it is manufactured by a company called Tuck and it can be used to secure an extrenal permeable membrane house wrap made by Dupont called Tyvek (I believe Dupont may also make the same tape but I have only seen the Tuck brand). I think by us calling it code-name Tyvek tape,it stay…
Last reply by 240260280z,
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