Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,662 topics in this forum
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The plastic trim has a barrel-shaped retaining clip that rusts. This fastens into a speed-nut like clip on the body Here is the body clip with the retaining clip installed. Both were acid dipped and primed. On this 240z, there were two different width body clips. One hatch vent used wide and one used narrower. I seem to have misplaced the photos of the door interior parts of the vent system. Here is one that I have. It shows the plastic part that attaches to the inside of the vent hole. It originally had a foam seal that has long since decayed so I replaced it by gluing on new foam then cutting out the shape. To install the body clips and not damage the pain…
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Jan 1971 240z. I decided to refresh the stock vent system and at the same time, bag the interior so that all possible leaks were sealed. I used a thick vapor barrier from the home insulation industry as well as a special sealing tape to close all holes (grommets,rust holes, panel holes, empty bolt holes) and panels from front to back. Here is what I did to refresh the vent in the hatch: The original hatch had long lost the perimeter seal. It was just globs of an seemingly old acrylic caulking or a decayed foam seal that was similar to globs of chewing gum. [*=1]The two rubber flaps that blow outward when air flows through the cabin were settled into a permanently …
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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I figured I'd share some photos of the resto:
Last reply by cozye, -
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Some photos for reference. For installing and removing simply pick an end then start rolling with fingers. I found that removing works best starting from the rear and installing works best starting from the front. They clean up well with fine steel wool. *****Addendum by Enrique Scanlo ****** Excellent post. A couple of notes to add, having done a few of these. Sometimes due to grime and other schmootz that creeps in underneath, you'll need more help than simply rolling the trim with your fingers. In that case, use a flexible scraper to GENTLY ease the lower edge out from underneath the drip rail. Once it begins slipping off, don't get too over ea…
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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I am toying with the idea to remove the bumperettes off of my 240Z bumpers to get it closer to looking like the euro bumpers with only the horizontal bumper. But I would like to fill in the holes left with shiney chrome bolts. What have people been using to fill these holes?
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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There they are, MSA headlight covers. About a hundred bucks and you have some fairly good fitting headlight covers. But then there is the big issue. Not many of us really want to drill holes in our headlight scoops to mount that. Well, I sure do not. So many things have been tried. Velcro, double sided 3M tape. But all were either too weak to hold the cover on, or too strong to let it go so you could clean behind it. So how do we fix this. I have not seen this suggestion before, so I will throw it out there. I present to you these!! round Neodymium rare earth magnets. They are crazy strong. I mean crazy. They come in all sizes and shapes, including smal…
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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My shell has 300K miles on it and been painted 4 times. The lines down the sides of the car were vague at best as they had been sanded/dinged multiple times. Kevin Leblanc at Austin Z-Clinic brought them back to life. Lots of hard work went into it. I asked him to make them a bit more pointy than stock... The lines were built up with thick epoxy primer and block sanded (repeat ad nausea). Click the Large View link. Wha-da-ya-think? Large View Large View Also started spraying Lizard skin underneath. Neat stuff. I brush POR'd the all the non-exterior panels so the Lizard Skin went over the POR after scratching it up with a red scouring pad. …
Last reply by jepherz, -
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Just about finished installing my 240z front bumper, replacing the large & heaviy stock 280z bumper. Just need to pick up some nylon spacers for the bumper end bolts tomorrow from lowes. I retapped the end bolt captive nuts to clean up the threads (they are indeed 6 x 1 metric. Fabricated the new main brackets from 1.5" x 1/8 alluminum stock, drilled & slotted them for a small amount of adjustment, & installed them with new stainless hardware. Drilled 1 new hole for the front of the brackets & utilized the stock rear hole for the back location. Now, on to the back bumper .... even more fun!
Last reply by Fire604, -
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Here are a couple of pics of my tail light finishers (fascia) that I covered with 3M carbon fiber material. The finisheres were in really bad condition, all in one piece but looked like hammered crap, so instead of painting them I did this, I'm sure it will last a while 3M says 3 years exposed outdoors, we'll see. Tell me what you think.
Last reply by Fire604, -
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HI, Please excuse my question if it has already been addressed. I have searched the forum but have not found any information. I am in the process of cleaning up some rust under the Cowl of my '77. The foam attached to the underside of the cowl are in reasonable shape but there is rust under them. If I remove the pads to get at the rust I will need to replace them. Where can I buy replacements? Can I use something similar that is readily available? Thanks!
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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In 1970, we didn't have "choice of color" when our name came up on the waiting list. We were fortunate to get a #918 orange car, which was fine, but the color we really coveted was #919 Sunshine Yellow. We have now purchased another early 1970 Z in process of restoration which, 41 years later, will finally enable us to fulfill our desire. The question is: will it be possible to re-create the actual, original Sunshine Yellow after all this time? I haven't seen a Z that color in YEARS. Are there resources that can track down the original "recipe" or formula for a particular obsolete color? That failing, is there another more recent yellow which is practically identi…
Last reply by ajmcforester, -
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Hi all Last month I bought a pair of new chrome door moldings from "Reddat" on eBay. Yesterday afternoon I had a bit of free time so I thought I'd install them on my June 1973 240z... Well I came across an odd issue The moldings he sent me are dead straight when viewed from the side of the car The moldings that are on my car and which I believe to be original have a slight curve to the back half of them. They slightly curve up to meet the quarter glass. I pulled mine off and noted that the top of my door skin has the same slight curve to it. Am I seeing things? The seller Reddat is telling me that the only difference in the door chrome moldings for the different year 240z…
Last reply by Montezuma,
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