Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,662 topics in this forum
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Recently I acquired a 240Z with the competition hood. I don't really know how rare the competition hood scoop is, and I don't know if anyone else besides me even likes it. I have been asked by one person if I could make a copy of it. Since I did the math the other day and figured out that it will take about $1000 to get my car back on the road at the minimum, I thought that I would like to see how many people would be interested in a copy of the hood. If I can get a professional fiberglass outfit to make copies for me, would there be much interest? Oh, and if this isn't the right place for this kind of post, please let me know and I will delete it or move it if …
Last reply by 74260zt, -
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- 3 replies
- 2.1k views
So I just got some new hinges because my old ones were bent and wonky. But now I need some tips and tricks for get the door positioned correctly. It opens and shuts and locks right now but the gap at the front of the door is bigger than the gap at the back so I'm trying to figure out how to push it forward with out ruining my top and bottom alignment.
Last reply by EScanlon, -
- 5 replies
- 1.5k views
;)After sanding some areas of the body I am considering trying this aircraft paint stripper than sanding by hand the spots that I miss. I would wipe the body down and blow dry it afterwards. I got some body filling to do and than on with the primer. Any suggestions? Maybe a trip to the local library also? I haven't painted a car in 40 plus years.
Last reply by Z train, -
- 16 replies
- 9.5k views
I recently ordered the hatch outer upper and side w/s pieces from MSA. After getting the upper piece installed I moved to the side pieces. That is when I noticed they did not have the same tubular cross-section as the upper piece. I checked and could see there was no way the flat side piece was going to contact the hatch flange, there would be no effective seal. I contacted MSA with my concern, they assured me these were the correct side pieces and had been shaped like this for some time. I gave it some thought and went back to MSA with a request to RA the side pieces saying I would order two additional upper pieces and fab my own side units. The RA was quickly appro…
Last reply by chachacourt, -
- 15 replies
- 5k views
Hi, The 4 bolts that hold the two differential rear hangers to the box frame cross beam broke when turning out. I tried PB blaster and heating the remaining studs with a MAP torch, quenching and turning out with an extractor but no luck. Today I had a welder with a 120V flux wire mig have a go but the welds would not take to the studs. They broke when turning. He also had problems welding the nuts to the studs... the washer seemed to weld ok. It seemed like the nuts may have been a poor quality steel... not sure? Any tips on how to do this job? Does it need more heat with a 220V higher current welder? Thanks
Last reply by 240260280z, -
well I started some repairs of some rusty area's on my car. I decided to tackle the rear hatch area, as I already had the interior disassembled and dropped the tank etc.. to remove the rear bumper mounts and am shaving the rear. Figured I'd post some pics and share my experience. Today I cut out the rusty section on my hatch jam, its only rusted on the drivers side. I figure this might be one of the more complicated repairs. I made pretty good progress today since I only had about 5 hours to work on it. I'll finish it up tomorrow. before got the rust cut out and ground out new bottom piece welded in I cut and bent the replacement piece on a metal brake I have. …
Last reply by olzed, -
- 2 replies
- 1.4k views
I'm replacing all the window seals and for the quarter window inner seal, I know the flat side of the seal goes onto the window frame, leaving the u channel down. Does the taller edge of the u channel go towards the inside or the outside of the frame? Thanx.
Last reply by mjr45, -
- 6 replies
- 1.8k views
OK, after reading numerous posts both here and on various auto paint sites, I'm totally confused about primer. My 75 has several small areas and 1 larger area (8 sq. in.) of body filler and glazing, multiple small areas sanded down to bare metal. What primer do I use? I've read "primer 1st with epoxy then high build and another coat of epoxy after sanding." "Primer with high build, sand down then seal with epoxy." "Spray bare metal with self etching, then high build, sand then epoxy prime." So I am totally lost. The entire car has not been taken to bare metal, but sanded up to 320 grit. Help, whats next?
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 4 replies
- 1.6k views
I bolted a new header on today ! I put a 280 head on a 240 block so i'm not using the smog hook-ups. I need to plug the holes in the header. I tried 1/2" NPT in one hole - no go. The larger hole is to big for 1/2"NPT, but to small for 3/4"NPT. Any idea what size these two holes are?? - Jeff
Last reply by Hunter260Z, -
- 1 reply
- 1.3k views
Well, it was inevitable my first deer. I was doing 40 in a 40, braked and missed the first deer.. second deer hit the rear quarter panel. I'm looking to see if anyone has a spare driver side ZG fender flare.. I don't think this one can be repaired.
Last reply by cajunz, -
- 3 replies
- 1.5k views
Is there any way to recharge the hydraulic lift strut that holds up the rear hatch? Mine has lost it's mojo. Thanks Guy :pirate:
Last reply by Diseazd, -
- 18 replies
- 4.7k views
This paint shop has had the car for over 1.5 years, and it looks like another convention will pass by without the Z finished. I'm so frustrated, I don't know what to do. Their bread and butter work is collision, so I sit at the bottom always. :disappoin
Last reply by mgmoreau,
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