Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
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Hello, I am currently restoring a 1977 280Z and I am thinking about reinforcing the car. Does anybody have experience with the Front Fender Braces from Apexengineered (https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p67/Front__Fender_Brace.html)? Or are there any other braces that are more beneficial than the ones for the fenders? JagoBlitz
Last reply by rturbo 930, -
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I am in the process of selling my 76 280Z 2+2. Recently I had a brake line leak that was fixed but I believe caused a rust issue. I am attaching a photo of the concerned area. For reference it is about the size of a baseball. I have seen some replacement pieces for sale, I think that are welded on, for a fix. However, it appears to me that these pieces are more cosmetic than structural. I do have access to a good welder so welding is an option. Thoughts/Comments/Suggestions.
Last reply by rturbo 930, -
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Has anyone not run front wipers, and if so, did you plug the holes in the cowl? I won't purposefully drive in the rain, and I plan to put Rain-X on the windshield in case I get caught in the rain. I wouldn't mind losing the weight of the wiper motor and assembly, and don't see a reason to keep everything when I'm likely not going to use them at all. I also have a muscle car that I've had for years and have probably run the wipers twice in the last 10 years. I think it might look funny just leaving the holes in the cowl open. Thoughts?
Last reply by 26th-Z, -
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Last night I tried popping my hood open, with no luck. I figured I'd have to get it up in the air today and try prying the latch as mentioned in many other threads. But, somehow it did open, luckily. So while removing and cleaning the hood latch, checking the cable, I decided to add an emergency cable, just in case the original fails. First I bought a $2 hook and wire leader from Walmart, 60 lb test, about 34" long, and removed hook and beads. . Drilled an 1/8" hole in the top of the swiveling cable end connector, on the firewall side so it won't bind up with real cable. Fed the small cable loop up through the hole, then big loop through small loop. …
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Has anyone had and success with polishing the pits and scratches (left by wiper blades) away? I believe I have a original windshield that would be worth trying this to. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by psdenno, -
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I've installed a dozen or so windshields between 510's and Z's in the last few years, I find it pretty easy now. But today I'm about to do it again (510), and something popped into my head. There is, after all a fairly big vacuum in there that allows things to slip in pretty easily.. Why not put the gasket in the car over the pinch weld FIRST, THEN put the glass in the gasket. Put the rope in the glass channel rather than the pinch weld channel and pull it over the glass? Any one else try this before? What madness makes me think this might be a tad easier since your pulling rope on the outside rather than cramped in the car, and I can push down with one ha…
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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Many of us have learned to replace windshields ourselves. This thread is not so much a tutorial on the whole process, there are great threads for that else where. I just to add a method that will make the generally accepted technique of using a rope in the pinch weld groove to pull the inner lip over the pinch weld, into an actual pleasant experience rather than a test of will and strength. Here we go. Just tried this today on a 510 rear windshield after a common struggle with the front. The experience on the back was heavenly.
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
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Hi I have made a deal for a car pending final inspection. Its a 260z that the owner used to drive and autocross. I am wondering what to check for that could be broken from autocrossing. I know the front swaybar mount needs fixed but that seems to be very common. The car has an L28 with triple webbers and header, performance springs, swaybars, bushings etc. It also still has the air and heater hooked up and the inside is not to bad but I have all the pieces to make it look perfect I think. Any way excited to get the car but want to make sure to know what damage to look for besides rust.
Last reply by Yarb, -
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The rubber parts on my bumpers are still in pretty good shape (not cracked) but faded as you would expect. any suggestions on good rubber refresh products or methods? Thanks for any help.
Last reply by swflaz, -
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Just wanted to show some of the work I've been doing on my Z to fix some thoroughly rusted floorpans and rockers. It is still very much in-progress but I'll try to update as it goes on. Hopefully it'll be of help to someone as a reference, or at least encourage folks to give it a shot. If you see anything wrong with the approach, please let me know! Some quick background: The car is a '75 that I picked up in KY a few years back. Since then I fixed the fuel system and got it running, squared away the suspension (new bushings, shocks, springs, hubs, etc etc). But that is where my skill set ran out; never welded and never done resto work. Kept trying to find a sh…
Last reply by Neb, -
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This is an old topic, but not satisfactorily answered. I am trying to install new Front Door Seals I received from ZCarSource. These look much different from the MSA seals that were on there, and of course I can't remember what the original factory seals looked like. Here is a photo of the front of door, and of the seal layed on top for reference. I found some photos here (https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/39768-front-door-seal-pics/?do=findComment&comment=357725) from 11 years ago. The replies conflicted - some said the rubber tabs tuck under, and others said they're glued on top. Also, the smaller rubber seal that I show encircled in …
Last reply by Roberts280Z, -
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I have had a problem with exhaust getting into the cabin of my 240 HLS30 28726. I used a theatre fog machine to find where it was coming in, and found minor leaks around the right tail light, the license plate light and the antenna. Got them all fixed. The remaining problem, and the biggest, is the hatch seal. While the hatch itself is a good fit and well aligned, I'm getting leaks on both sides, but not the top or bottom. The seal itself is only a few years old and has very few miles. The material remains malleable. I believe I got it from the now-defunct Black Dragon Automotive. Can anyone tell me if there varying quality seals out there? Any to avoid, o…
Last reply by SteveJ,
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