Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,662 topics in this forum
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- 5 replies
- 1.8k views
The door and fender patch panels arrived the other day and I have a couple of questions. Should I overlap them using the flange or cut flush and butt weld. My concern with the flange is rust forming between the inside of the flange on the new metal and the old sheet metal of the door. I don't see how to treat this area after welding other than seam sealer applied to the joint afterward.Thanks
Last reply by a7dz, -
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in process of body repair and sanding, on the places (paint) that are not going to be taken down to bare metal do you just need to break the glaze or shinny coat of paint, using 120m and 220 grit. and what do I need for final grit before paint (400). plan on using a sealer, then base color then clear coat. This is 411 sunburst yellow, am using light grey primer on the repair areas, do I have to use the same on ALL of the body to achieve a uniform color at the end or can I just leave the unrepaired areas yellow and just primer the repaired areas? Also the hatch and fenders are a dark brown I assume I need to gray primer those entire items for uniform colr to match the rest…
Last reply by mriz, -
- 5 replies
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Does anyone know a good website to a body kit, for my 78 280z. I had a hard time finding it because they are all seem to be for coupes. (need it badly to finish my bodywork.)
Last reply by Montana-Z-Crazy, -
- 2 replies
- 1.3k views
Any special techniques or tricks for getting these off without twisting them up? (What holds them on, just a crimp?) Also, on the door, exterior, chrome molding running width of door at bottom of window (holds the rubber squeegee, I believe) -- same question. Thanks, Steve.
Last reply by CANDYBLUE2+2, -
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I have been toying with different ways to clean up and restore old parts. I found a small sprayer that goes in a bead blaster box and used baking soda as my media. It is real cheap and does a great job on small parts and small patches of rust.I use it outside the cabinet because I can use it all over the car.It doesn,t warp the metal and the soda turns into a small powder that blows completely away leaving nothing but a clean smell with no grit.Has anybody tried this before? I bought 24 pounds for 10.00 today at Sams.
Last reply by DRBall, -
New Paint! 1 2
by zeiss150- 18 replies
- 4k views
Hey Z people! I just thought I would share my paint job results. I painted my Car in November, I used PPG LeMans Sunset (Nissan 350Z color A17). It is a 2 stage paint, base coat/ clear coat. I used a professinal spray booth at my local high school. There is an adult education program for auto body paint and repair that is taught there, for $20 you can learn how to do body work and paint your car in a pro spray booth. I still need to color sand the hood and fenders but so far I think it looks beautiful. I'm getting the bumpers welded up and re-chromed, once I get them back and on the Z I'll take some awesome pictures of my car. If you have any questions please let …
Last reply by zeiss150, -
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Has anyone bought the replacement floorpans from Too Intense Restoration? I was curious how they compare to ZeddFindings, MSA... Thanks in Advance!
Last reply by cremmenga, -
- 18 replies
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My 12/70 has all the markings of a series 1 including the rear vents on the hatch.It also has the vents on the pillar post.I can't find any where it was repaired and it all looks original.I can't come up with a reason for both so I was going to fill in the vents on the pillar post.I like the 240Z emblems there.Does anyone see a problem with this fix?
Last reply by Obewon, -
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My '73 Z (MFG date 12-72) has a small upper and lower rubber tab on the front of each quarter window that mates up with the door weatherstriping. I see the later one piece long moulding for sale on E-Bay. Was this a update that will fit my cars quarter window? My Datsun restore book states "on later models, the metal backed moulding comes off by removing four screws", but I see no threaded holes on my windows. The seller states they work on all 240Zs, and the small tabs are no longer available. Thanks, Doug
Last reply by ZsRUSTIN, -
- 4 replies
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I just got my car painted and had the fenders and sugar scoops painted seperately. I see in the parts book there is a "packing" between the two parts. The Nissan part # 83811-E4101 comes up not available. Has anyone found something to use for this. Is it just a rubber gasket or is it like the fender welting on the old VW beetles. I am guessing it is thin enough that you don't really see it when looking at the fender after its been assembled. My car had nothing between the 2 parts. The packing is # 30 in the picture. Thanks
Last reply by 26th-Z, -
- 6 replies
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Hi All, Been thinking about finally doing some frame connectors to stiffen up the car (240z) and connect the front and rear rails. I was looking around the internet yesterday and saw that bad dog parts now offers new front/rear rails. Anyone have any experience with these? They look very nice, but i'm not sure how strong they would be. Am i just better off making my own from square tubing?
Last reply by ecp48, -
OEM Windshield 1 2
by MikeW- 16 replies
- 4k views
I recently bought a new aftermarket windshield to replace the original which is pitted and has scratch marks from where an idiot P.O. ran the wipers apparently with no blades. Since the person painting my car pulled all of the glass to paint it I figured this would be the perfect time to replace the windshield. I called a local auto glass place and they delivered a PPG brand windshield the next day. The good news is that the car is now painted and looks great; the bad news is that when they tried to install the new windshield it ended up breaking. They said they've broken them on the way out before but never while installing a new one. They couldn't figure out what …
Last reply by ZSaint,
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