Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,662 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
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That's what those two odd screws are for on the left side of the front bumper, except mine are rusted and the slot in the head doesn't look too strong. So since you are required to have a license plate on the front in my state, I'll probably need the plate frame too. Except the parts CD doesn't show a good picture of the front license plate frame. thx.
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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- 18 replies
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:dead: :dead: :dead: When I first bought the car the guy said is friend hit a bridge, " I fixed all the damage" he said. I start sanding one day thinking it's a normal day then BONDO. I have a eighth of a inch of bondo from my door all the way to my rear hatch, my ridge on my wheel well is flat from the impact. Any of you guys had a surprise like this? And to top it off with suprise my shock covers are original still has Nissan and Japan a couple other things.
Last reply by a7dz, -
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What kind of bumper would I put on my 73 because in the Victoria British catolog there are bumpers for 71-72 and 74 but nothing specifically for a 73 Datsun. Also if anyone knows of any cheaper bumpers online or in a catolog please let me know i was hoping for a little less than $500 but if i must for my Z...
Last reply by Ed, -
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What's the best way to mask off a door, when you've masked one side from the inside, but if you mask the other side from the inside, you're stuck inside, haha. Any ideas? I need to know pretty quick guys.
Last reply by 280z1975, -
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If anyone has a junk 280Z body sitting around that they don't mind hacking a piece off of, I could use the front of the left (drivers side) "fender extension" part of the unibody from as close to the rad support forward as possible. Circled area in pic. If you have such a piece, PM me. Thanks.
Last reply by mdbrandy, -
- 12 replies
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I recently replaced my door latch (which needed to be done anyway) but it failed solve my door rattle problem. I've read Enrique's door article and I feel like I understand it. The problem is the striker plate on my car has almost no adjustablity. For some reason the holes are not elongated. But then I remembered that the car came with new uninstalled weather stripping for the doors. It looks right for the application but seems really thick. The door fits in the opening properly, and it doesn't rattle anymore... but it takes 2 hands to close the door which is totally unacceptable. I don't want to buy new weather stripping only to find out I already have the right s…
Last reply by THE73Z, -
- 9 replies
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I thought I'd post another restore-thread. I was taking a break after scraping undercoating off the trans tunnel and I thought I would get out the bag-o-emblems I have. I was reading an earlier post on how to restore emblems, (I dont wanna put the guy 'on the spot' again) . After reading it I went and got some supplies and thought I'd give it a try. I used the following items, and the total was about $30.00 CAD. Tamiya Color for plastics R/C spray in Semi-Gloss black. Liquid Masking Film Spot sanding pen hobby knife Tamiya Acrylic paint for R/C's (white) some plastic Q-Tips. I tried to find Pactra paints but theres limited supplies. Either Canada is getting Tes…
Last reply by Zak's Z, -
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Hey i'm planning to paint my 240 some shade of orange and I really want to put racing stripes on it but I'm afraid it will look ridiculous if i do black stripes. If anyone has any pictures or tips for me please respond. If you have an idea of another color that would look good with the orange please respond.
Last reply by THE73Z, -
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I tried using search but nothing came up. Has anybody blacked out their tail lights and have a picture of it? Or does anybody know HOW to do it. I've been toying with the idea because I'm blacking out my chrome and going for a really clean look (no emblems etc.). - Ian.
Last reply by theianmonster, -
- 12 replies
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Here is something I found interesting, and thought you guys might too. It is a "shade tree test" of whether to use filler over or under epoxy primer. The one real reason I held for using filler over epoxy primer was to seal out any water that might get into the filler from wet sanding. If the filler is not on the bare steel, the water it could hold would not be either...I realy had not considered adhesion as a consergn. Anyway...I am anticipating some good replies... here is the direct link, http://www.autobodystore.com/filler_&_epoxy.htm Here is first part of the blurb-if it all makes it-the second part will immediatly follow in the next post. <TABLE style=…
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
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I need to replace my door latch mechanism and the manual says I need to remove the window sash which means removing the window. I can see that the mechanism is buried behind the window sash/track, but I really don't want to remove the window and sash if I don't have to. I think I know my fate, but I'm hoping someone has succeded in sliding the mechanism behind that track by loosening up the sash and getting really lucky. Normally I wouldn't care about removing a window but the whole door is skinned with sound proofing which I am now having to cut through and everything is in A+ condition appearance wise. I'll flip if I scratch the window. It's ok to lie to me. Thanks, …
Last reply by THE73Z, -
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hey all, this is a pic of the fender of my current project. this is by far the worst area of the body. given the rest of the car's condition and the need for mechanical restoration, i want to try to seal this off to prevent further rust damage. it was obviously a bad repair from a bad hit. the good news is that i don't have to deal with a lot of rain in my area, it's probably been like this for at least 10 years. i know that sealing it will not improve the cosmetics of the damage but i would like to stop it from progressing. anybody have any suggestions?
Last reply by a7dz,
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