Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,662 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
- 1.3k views
I've finally built up the confidence to paint my own car. A guy at work has a HVLP gun for sale that he said would be good for priming. My question is, what's the difference in a priming gun and a painting gun?
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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i need some 1978 280z hood vents must be in good shape
Last reply by Gumby240, -
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hi Folks.... Need your opinions here if you would please. I have a 72 240z which I brought from a friend a few years back. When I got the car the carpet was removed, and most of the rear interior was removed by my bud, when he tried to put in a pair of 12 woofers in the side wheel well space. He also installed a 5 point roll bar, and 5 speed tranny. I've invested some bucks, and have it in as near orginal shape as I would like it to be. I left the roll bar, and tranny, and have replaced a lot of the odds-and -ends that needed to be replace, such as glove box, fuse box... misc stuff. The body is in pretty good shape, only major rust that I had was behind the wheels in the…
Last reply by mmagnus, -
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I'm about to replace cockers and parts of front and rear fenders. Before I cut out the old metal, I'd appreciate some advice. 1) Should I just cut out the bad sections and attempt to cut the edges of the replacement panels to perfectly match the sut on the car (which seems hard to get right), or, 2) Should I try to clamp the replacement panel to the car and cut through it and the car at the same time. This seems like it would result in a perfect match. Is there a coimmonly accepted "best"way? Many thanks!
Last reply by kmack, -
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I got an old (I think) Kaminari kit from the guy I got the Z from. Front air damn has 3 each cracks and 1 split in it. Can this part be fixed? Thanks: Brian:alien:
Last reply by 240Zdragon72, -
- 4 replies
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So, I'm cutting out the rust on my car. About a 1' square below the driver and passenger seat. Pretty much right where the frame rail ends. After I cut the square out I take a look down the inside of the frame rail and all I see is more RUST! I imagine that both rails are just as bad. Is it possible to remove just the frame rails without damaging the floor? I was thinking about replacing just the rusted spot in the floor board (about a 1' square) then getting the replacement rails. I do have an air chisel but that usually rips the metal apart. Unless I'm using it wrong. Has anybody else succesfully removed the rail from the floor?
Last reply by EScanlon, -
- 4 replies
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I occasionally see rubber end caps for the rear bumper on eBay. Are these stock for a 11/71 car or are they after market add on?
Last reply by 240Zdragon72, -
- 6 replies
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I finished my rotisserie. $80 bucks in metal and a 200 dollar welder. Now she's ready for the basting.:classic:
Last reply by nutxo, -
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I purchased a decal set for my 72 240z from Banzai Motorworks. Looked thought all my Sport Z mags and all my reference and restoration manuals for pics of proper location. Can't find any photos or even any descriptions. Any suggestions other than to find someone who has a concours model and take a look under the hood?
Last reply by GregV72, -
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Alright, here's one that's got me stumped. How am I going to get the waviness and distortions out of the rear valence of my Z so that the bottom edge appears straight? I want the rear straight at the bottom edge, but it is so hard because the valence isn't secured to the main structure. My body-man friends only idea was to either buy a new rear valence or cut most of it off and use an english wheel. What should I do? I included a picture of exactly what I want, it includes the dual exhaust cutouts and the shaved rear bumper mounts. Thanks. -David
Last reply by zed240au, -
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Im looking to get a 240, but I may end up with a 280 just because its so much easier to find, and I have found couple potential 280s that i might buy. Just wanted to know how much work/$$$ is required to get the 240 front/rear bumper look into the ugly 280 bumpers. Thanks, sorry if its been asked many times (which it probably has but couldnt find anything)
Last reply by bigd652, -
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Does anyone have any experience with Picklex 20? It's "A combination metal surface cleaner, surface rust remover, 100% rust converter (including mill scale), conditions metal and provides a conductive metallurgical protective coating for long term rust protection, all in one application." http://www.ashjentech.com/picklex.htm Is there a BETTER rust converter/remover out there? Thanks.
Last reply by 0100,
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