Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
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I've been sanding and sanding (and sanding) with an orbital sander. Started w/ 100 grit, and out of impatience, fatigue, boredom, moved to 60 grit. Not much faster, but etching into the steel. With over 75% of the vehicle yet to do, I'm inclined to use paint stripper. I tried some on my donor 73 as an experiment, and it seems one helluva lot easier/faster. Any advice /warnings?
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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I have read some of the info stating that using either a self etching or epoxy primer under the Bondo really extends the life of a Bondo patch. Unfortunately I read this AFTER I had done the patch and all the sanding, so there is no primer underneath my Bondo. Is it really worth it to grind the Bondo out and redo? Since I don't have access to a gun, I am forced to use whatever primer comes in a spray can. Any recommendations on brands that will work well under the Bondo? Any tricks or proven methods are appreciated. Thanks, Victor.
Last reply by tanny, -
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ok, im FINALLY getting to the priming stage of my car. I already put a layer of etching primer on a while back, but now that all of my body work is just about done, im going to be putting on the gray primer which will be right before my paint if i understand correctly... my question would be this "how many layers of primer should i lay?", "what grit sandpaper should i use before my first layer?", "what grits should i go through and end at?" and i guess ill ask some other sanding and layering questions about painting later when it comes to my topcoat. thanks for the info, -Zach
Last reply by zachb55, -
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I have a 260z and it was Z barred before I bought it. I guess it had tar and other things put behind the panals to prevent rust. This is all good and dandy, but in the process they put this suff on my firewall and on the rest of the engine bay making me never want to show off the engine because of the ugliness. I want to remove the stuff from this area because the original paint is still lusterous underneath. If I did remove it, would it rust easily even though all of the paint would be there? Thank you -Ben
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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Have any of you added airdams and/or rear spoilers and noticed any improvement in the exhaust fumes? I'm almost finished adding mine, and I'm hoping against hope that there is going to be an appreciable difference. (If so, maybe my wife and daughter will go for a ride; they're actively boycotting the Z because of it. My son, on the other hand, could care less!)
Last reply by Mr Camouflage, -
Driving home this avo in the zed, some little wanker on a bike rode out in front of me. I hit the brakes suddenly and the car swerved hard right and locked what I think was the front right wheel. Now the car pulls to the right reasonably heavily and when I apply the brakes it pulls very hard to the right and you get sorta shhh shhh shhh shhh shhh scrubbing sound from the front right wheel. Anyhow, I've just had a look under there expecting a problem with the suspension or brakes and found something much much worse. The chassis rail on the right hard side where the radius rod connects to it, has totally seperated from the body! It's all quite rusted and is displaced abo…
Last reply by Murph, -
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My car has been pretty well undersealed... but i would like to do it again as some areas are begining to flake.. I dont think its a good idea just to paint over old underseal so i need to remove the old stuff. (anyone disagree??) Any ideas how to remove underseal which is extremely sticky (tar like)? I tried to scrape it but it just spreads it around and makes a mess... By the way, I plan on using POR 15 to underseal the car, after reading some good recommendations... (that should do the trick shouldnt it?) Thanks all.
Last reply by Murph, -
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Just wondering if anybody has had any experiences using a isocryanite free paint available at "Auto one" stores in Australia. It is a clear two pack paint, that goes on top of a acrylic colour coat, to give it instant shine and durability. The survival statistics, of the DIY spraygun operator, is apparently better that normal two pack paint. Thanks, Michael
Last reply by mbentsen, -
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Hi folks, I would like to know if the baffle plate, the metal shield that sits behind the Front Brake Rotor, can be painted with POR 15? I am wondering how hot that shield gets and if POR 15 can handle it (can't seem to find any temp. rating on the product). I don't race and I don't drive the car that often? What do you think? Will it flake off quickly? Thanks
Last reply by 24OZ, -
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would paint and rubber undercoating do ok? or should i do por15 or something? I'm having a bodyshop weld in new floors for my car and was wondering if I should bother with stuff like por15 on new metal, as I've heard it doesnt like new metal all that much.
Last reply by inline4, -
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Well I've been getting stuck in to stripping down the 260 this weekend and have noticed that the damage to the frame rail is worse than I first thought. It looks like the damage was the result of an impact from below, such as bottoming out on a speed hump. As you can see from the first photo, the metal is creased and has actually split in one place. Looking down from the engine bay there is a bulge which shouldn't be there. It does not appear that there is any twisting of the body though. Can anyone give me some idea of how easy/hard/practical it is to replace the frame rail?
Last reply by Murph, -
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I have been told that these are not directly interchangeable however I have seen a 260Z with 240Z tail lights, what exactly is involved in fitting them? Thanks
Last reply by Alfadog,
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