Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,662 topics in this forum
-
- 5 replies
- 2k views
Hi, I am in the process of stripping the inside and underside of my floorpan back to clean metal, then coating with POR15 followed by a layer of underbody deadener. The underside is not a problem but I am just wondering if this is the best approach for the inside. Arguments are: - it wont look as nice on the inside, however it will be carpeted over anyway. - it will make future floor rust inspection harder, however rust should not be a problem after the thorough stripping and POR15 Thanks
Last reply by drunkenmaster, -
-
- 5 replies
- 1.8k views
I picked up some aluminum rear window louvers on ebay, but they're not the kind that mount underneath the window trim. It looks like they have to be screwed into the sheet metal, with the hinges going above the window, and little spring-bolt latches to the left and right below the window (they just came with some sheet metal screws). Anyone have any tips for installing these besided appliying POR15 inside the holes I'll need to drill?
Last reply by echocluster, -
- 5 replies
- 1.2k views
Was tearing stuff out on the interior today and I guess the seal around the hatch leaks and my spare tire well was full of water :-) Wifey yelled about the towels, bah, threw em in the wash for her what more could she ask for?! bah :stupid: can anyone point me to a pic of an orangish color stock interior fpr reference please? It doesnt seem to look like the butterscotch color ive seen, mine seems to be metallic. also, my speedo starts at 10, my oil pressure gauge only goes to 90, are these original gauges? p.s. please excuse my typing, i wear a brace and my fingers dont move quite right or in the order they are supposed to sometimes :-)
Last reply by nutxo, -
So before i got my z i checked all the spots people said to check for rust, I was overjoyed that the car i wanted had great floorpans, a few bubbles on a few body parts, none around the hatch and a spot on a fender where someone put a jack in the wrong place and cracked the paint so it rusted. No biggie. Today Im workin on my car and I see some rust under the battery and knock on it and my hand goes through! I can fix it but man, now i need a donor car :-( will that part match out of a 240 z? I have a 76 280.
Last reply by nutxo, -
Anyone know of a good place to get front and rear bumpers for my 76 280Z 2+2??? Vic Brit doesn't sell them. Still waiting for my motor sport cat to get here....
Last reply by nutxo, -
- 11 replies
- 1.8k views
Checking the compression ratio from the car i would to buy, here is what i find cyl1: 7 bars cyl2: 7 bars cyl3:6.5 bars cyl4: 6.5 bars cyl5:6.3 cyl6: 6bars it seems to me, to be Low no???? What value could i must to find with a 2.6 l with E88 head 260Z 2+2 1975???? Ben
Last reply by sjcurtis, -
- 3 replies
- 1.5k views
how can you solve the dashpot excessive clearance? you must change the carby? if you have excessive clearance i suppose that the oil don't stay a long time in the dashpot? And the nozzle and the needle will suffer by this clearance? thanks Ben
Last reply by Bpaccaud, -
- 3 replies
- 1.4k views
completely cutting out the floors and having other sheetmetal replacing it. good or bad for the unibody and can it get messed up?
Last reply by beandip, -
Paint chips
by tanny- 1 reply
- 1k views
What is the best way to repair paint chips? Not worried about color matching, car will be painted. Best products to use? Thanks, Victor.
Last reply by beandip, -
- 6 replies
- 2.7k views
Took my driver side door apart this winter to treat the inside with Por15. I did have abit of a problem with rolling my window all the way down and then getting it back up before. Well now it's even worse. Does anyone know of a trick to properly adjust the window requlator and guides to fix this problem? Thanks
Last reply by DakotaZ, -
- 7 replies
- 4.3k views
Well after putting on a new VB driver's side door weatherstrip last spring, all the slamming of the door and adjusting and readjusting the striker plate on the door jamb has resulted in there only being 1 bolt left that will actually tighten :-( Since that's not enough to hold the striker in place when closing the door, pretty soon I won't be able to use that door at all :-( I don't have a chassis manual and I've been afraid to remove the striker plate completely to have a look as I'm afraid I won't be able to re-attach it :-( Does anybody have an idea of how I can fix this? I'd like to figure out what to do before Spring :-)
Last reply by BadDog, -
- 5 replies
- 1.6k views
Hopefully I can describe the problem well enough to get an answer. The rear bumper on my 73 z has been tweaked a bit, so I removed it. Both brackets(the rear ones, not the side brackets) seem to be bent, but I'm not sure how much. Are undamaged brackets formed with only right angles, or are the bends in the bracket something other than 90 degree bends? Are they supposed to be exactly rectangular in overall shape, or are they more trapezoidal with angled legs(sides)? The reason it's not clear to me is that the bumper when mounted is not that far out of alignment(is shifted slightly to drivers side), both brackets have similar shapes, and I've never seen brackets on an…
Last reply by tanny,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
