Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
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So during a trial refit of the panels of my May 71 240Z project I had an issue getting the lower lip of the LH headlight bezel ("sugar scoop") to lay flat against the upper lip of the lower corner valance. While researching the issue, I quickly went a rabbit hole and discovered no less that FIVE variations of the S30 bezel, and the differences all seem to be related to the number and type of holes on the lower lip that overlays the top of the lower corner valance. Here is the original fiberglass bucket, with two holes (#1 and #2) that align with the two cages nuts on the valance. These holes are the same on all the variants. But here is a b…
Last reply by Parman, -
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I ran across this on e-bay for $136 w/ shipping and was wondering if its worth picking up to aid in keeping the engine compartment cool. I have an early 260z but I suspect this design for the 280z matches. If I sand it down and if it fits in the powder coat oven, I think I can make it look nice for the cones I drive over in Autocross.
Last reply by Yarb, -
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Hi guys, I'm strongly considering going to a stock front valance. My car currently has an airdam installed. I like it but eventually this car will need to go back to its former glory. I may consider one of the BRE short airdams in the center though. Anyway, do you have any ideas where I can find a set in good condition? I've been away from the real world for awhile. Mike
Last reply by texasz, -
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In all the video installs I looked at, they seem to have issues with the spoiler dropping/warping - the 280Z has a valance that the spoiler sits against, if you don't remove it.. Clamped the middle to secure it, marked & drilled the 4 outer end attachments. Instead of futzing with nuts & bolts, I just used M6 stainless rivnuts & M6 sems screws For the leading edges, I used plastic body clips instead of bolts Added two rivnuts to the center section to anchor it All together (for now). I have a tall Skillard grille coming, and…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
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In the process of removing my transmission and came across this. Car has a 5 speed 280ZX transmission. I initially thought the PO just did a poor job of swapping it over but upon more research the section that is cut back shouldn’t exist. Anyone know why there’s seemingly an extra panel and bolt holes?
Last reply by Patcon, -
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I've found some surface rust on the inside of my 240Z's hatch, mostly at the bottom. It seems that water was in there at some point, but I don't see any signs of recent ingress. Should I leave it alone, or spray the inside of the hatch with Rustoleum? Do something else?
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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With credit for this pic stolen from a post by "Clay C"... After his sandblasting we can clearly see the tan-colored seam sealer. But what, exactly, is this black stuff? Did Nissan use panel bond on the Z? I have also noticed seams on the forward surfaces of the rear inner wheel wells that have a "bead" of some material that looks like it oozed out from between the panels. It is hard (unlike seam sealer) and I've wondered if it was panel bond.
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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Title. Discovered some rust at the bottom of my drivers side quarter panel where it had rusted through and caused the paint to bubble, resulting in 3 nickel sized holes. Dogleg portion has a bubble of paint that flaked off to reveal what looks like surface only, but with rust who knows. Entire pinch weld looks sound, but there's what looks like powdery rust residue running along the seam of the pinch weld where it meets the rocker panel, nothing else visible so I have no idea how serious it is. Also battery tray has some surface rust that I've hit with inhibitor and taken a screw driver to, metal seems sound, but would need addressed. The rest of the car *looks* okay…
Last reply by DatsunZGuy, -
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So I've never really messed with the window regulator mechanisms, and I've got a 240 with windows that don't go up or down properly, I'm confident that I can just start taking stuff apart until it all just collapses and I can fish the parts out of the door shells, but I'm wondering if there is a more intelligent way to go about it. Can I take the regulators out of the doors and leave the glass in there? Or should I disconnect the glass from the regulators while everything is still in the doors and pull the glass out first? I know many of you guys have been through this before, and I don't need to experiment here. You guys know the best process.
Last reply by Av8ferg, -
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I am trying to wrap up the metalwork on the sills and doglegs and have re-hung the fenders and doors to work the gaps and get it all (near) perfect. But the doors are empty and if I press down the rear top of the door, it bows down (like you would expect a small tinny door to do). So I feel sure that after paint, when the doors later get populated with glass, mechanisms, door cards, etc, the door will sag out of their pre-aligned position. So how do y'all deal with this? I'm thinking that I could hang a dummy weight on the inside of the door to simulate the downward moment of the uninstalled components. But how much weight, and how far forward of the hinges? …
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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I just received these prop clamps from ebay. item # is 185685464615 and they are perfect fit and very tight for my datsun 260z. I had the one from msa and it was loose. these clamps fit very tight and need to be snaped in. the prop rod no longer wriggles. I am just letting the forum know if anybody need them . kully
Last reply by kully 560, -
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I wanted to put in one place, a reference topic to those who are struggling with slamming doors with new rubber weather-strip, whatever your source for that material. Mark Tanker, @wheee! here, posted an excellent few posts in his build thread that showed how to simply create the often missing rubber parts in our 70-76 door latches that will quickly solve the slamming. Find it here. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=294#elControls_656753_menu Steve Nixon (hope I spelled that right) has a commercial product that reproduces ALL of the 5 rubber parts that are in a latch mechanism. https://www.240…
Last reply by zKars,
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