Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,662 topics in this forum
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I have been itching to try to put a more accurate fitting BRE replica rear spoiler on my car. So I pulled mine off and I need to do some tiny little scratch touch ups. While I was doing that I thought how some cars really looked 'the business' with a black rear spoiler. What color were the spoilers when the dealer added them? They did paint match them. Datsun did not supply the car with rear spoilers did they? If I wanted to put on an accurate rear spoiler, which one would have been picked back in the day. I am thinking of going with a BRE from www.bre2.com and order from Gayle and Peter. But should I get it paint matched, or should I just…
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
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Hi all, for some reason the door plate for my car was never found after the restoration. I have the engine plate, but am now looking to replace the door plate. Any of you have experience replacing the plate on your projects? If so, how did you go about stamping the VIN and production date on it? Looks like Zcar Depot has a plate I can buy, but, it doesn't seem to come with the custom stamp. https://zcardepot.com/collections/door-parts/products/data-plate-set-engine-and-year-240z-70-73?variant=19278798422129
Last reply by Mike, -
- 5 followers
- 12 replies
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Finally we made these brackets that DOES NOT require any cutting or modification to fit 240Z bumpers. In Japan, all the cars made between 1969-1978 have early 240Z bumpers. However for US market, Nissan did heavy body modification to clear strict "5 mile-bumper" rule and fitted bog bumpers. These kit give those who wants to have JDM/Euro look to their car an option! Precision cut, bend, and drilled by latest technology using OEM gauge metal. http://jdm-car-parts.com/products/240z-front-bumper-conversion-bracket-kit-for-us-1974-78-datsun-260z-280z http://jdm-car-parts.com/products/280z-rear-bumper-bracket-conversion-kit-for-us-1974-78-datsun-260z-…
Last reply by ramsesosirus, -
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Due to recent accident where I was rear ended, I'm looking for a 280z rear valence and passenger side bracket that attaches to valence and frame. Possibly the passenger side rear taillight panel if I can't smooth out the one I have. Right now, I'm only finding 240z valences out there, which could work, if that's my only option. Also any good body shop recommendations in central Maryland (West of Baltimore). Need to straighten out and square off the body panel just under the tail lights that the valence is welded to. From the pictures, you can see how it has been pulled down as you move from the drivers to the passenger side. See attached pictures. Thanks.
Last reply by ramsesosirus, -
- 7 followers
- 15 replies
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Hi All, Jump into front air dam and rear spoiler. Neither purchase can with any hardware or instructions (I do read them), just the unpainted part. Air dam, can't mess that up but I was curious if there is a standard or proper location for the rear spoiler? Checked out a ton of pics, Is the answer flush with the hatchback lip? or should there be a space forward of the lip? Rear spoiler 432 style, two mounting bolts. Any diagram or advise would help.
Last reply by ramsesosirus, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 635 views
im interested on the Left Door weatherstrip for my 1972 240z . Is Vintage Rubber the only reliable option for snug and tight fit?
Last reply by Johnny wick, -
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need a weatherstripping kit, BD or MSA? I know the door seals might be junk.
Last reply by Johnny wick, -
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- 3 replies
- 832 views
Theoretically, I might be installing emblems on a freshly painted car soon. I was curious what produced the best results when installing the emblems. Do you insert the barrel clips in the holes and press the emblem into them or do you insert the barrel clips over the posts and press everything into the holes? Thanks
Last reply by Hardway, -
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- 2 replies
- 949 views
Hi all, I damaged the passenger fender on my low mileage 77 280z and am looking for a replacement. I am surprised how hard it is to find a good fender theses days. I remember when Z parts were plentiful. It it looks like those days have passed. I have heard that 240z and 280z fenders are not identical. Can anyone explain what the differences are, even if they are subtle? Thank you, John
Last reply by jgkurz, -
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Truth be told I am painting my second complete car. So I am just a novice. The first was an mgb. This one is a 73 240z. When I painted the “B” I removed the doors, hood and trunk lid. The first problem was how to paint both sides of something using a 2 stage paint system. I purchased a few paint stands (scissor type) and they are a necessity if you are going to do any paint or body work. After struggling with the stands and painting one side at a time I finally broke down and bought a simple rolling rack. Mine isn’t very expensive (about $90). It is terrific for painting small light parts both sides at once. I never figured out a good way to suspend heavy awkwar…
Last reply by qz16, -
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I am working on replacing my rocker panel and i cannot change the gap shown in the images attached. The driver's door and fender meet up nicely like they did previously, but the rocker panel is inset of both. Its like it's diving inward towards the trans tunnel along the length of the rocker. Anyone seen this? My only thought is to cut along the top of the rocker along it's length and pull it out to meet the door/fender and then reweld it up. Thoughts?
Last reply by grannyknot, -
- 3 followers
- 14 replies
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My original door fits fine but has dents so I picked up a replacement door Problem is I can’t get the door to line up at the top and bottom unless I take out the bolts on the bottom bracket and move the door out. The only way I can think about fixing this is cutting out the door captive nuts and welding them where I need. Original door New door Bolt alignment to get the door flush as you can see this is beyond enlarging the holes on the brackets Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by Patcon,
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