Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,662 topics in this forum
-
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 1.5k views
Anyone have a good pic of there seal attached to the outer seal on the rear hatch? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by zspert, -
-
- 3 followers
- 7 replies
- 1.5k views
I'm trying to find a decent set of replacement fenders for my 73 240Z project. I spoke with the guys at Z Car Depot , they have them for $305 each. But the web site states there may be fitment problems. I spoke with them directly (really nice people to deal with) and it seems the fitment problems may be more than just shimming and elongating / adding holes. They said the curvatures may be somewhat off ,but they sold about 10 sets and no one has returned them or complained. I was wondering it anyone has purchased a set from Z Car Depot and if the problems were insurmountable. The shipping will be about another $250-300 ea, but I can probably drive over to their stor…
Last reply by wheee!, -
- 6 followers
- 38 replies
- 18.4k views
Anybody knows the colorcode of the paint? I tried Nissan Netherlands, but they won't help
Last reply by Jason240z, -
- 4 followers
- 7 replies
- 1.4k views
Can anyone help me identify these body panels? See pics. They came with my Z, which included several other Z panels. I haven't been able ot figure out where they go. Are they even from a Z?!? I'd hate to just scrap them if someone can use them... Thanks much!
Last reply by wal280z, -
- 4 followers
- 76 replies
- 17.6k views
I have got dealer option splash pan (no radiator drain hole version). But I need to repaint this. Dose some one know original finishing of paint work inside and outside ? Especially Color and Texture. …A
Last reply by kunzma, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 1.2k views
I may have some welding ahead of me... but I have a problem. My house has antiquated electrical service and it looks like I will cost C$1500 - C$2000 to have an upgraded panel installed in the house, along with suitable wiring taken out to the garage (which, as luck would have it, is about an 80' cable run from the panel location at the other end of the house). I can buy a brand-new-with-warranty 6500W/8125W generator that's being clearanced by a well-known local retailer right now for C$850 tax-in, delivered. I figure I can probably sell it for $250 after I'm done with it, so my eventual net cost for a year's worth of 24x7x365 access to the generator would be about C$…
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
- 4 followers
- 13 replies
- 7.8k views
Seems to be hard to find accurate modern paint to match the original 918 Orange from 1970 to 1973. Does anyone know the colour mix (not the code) now used to get close to the original colour. I'm after the white/black/red/yellow type mix. I'm having the bottom of one of the inspection hatches scanned today but wanted a formula to have as a reference. Ore even better someone that has painted their car recently and found an accurate match. Roo
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
- 4 followers
- 55 replies
- 8.3k views
So I put the hood back on today and the front looks like this. Seems like the torsion bars are pushing up too much. I can lean on the hood to bring it down, but I'm probably putting 100lbs on it to do so. FWIW, the bars had been removed from the car before I got it. (I didn't even realize they were missing and just sitting in front of the radiator until I took everything apart for paint.) I'm guessing that's the reason why, but I'd much rather have them on there then not. Any suggestions? Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 5 followers
- 17 replies
- 4.1k views
Fellow Zedheads, I'm repairing my doglegs and want to fabricate the INNER dog leg as close to original as possible. I can't find an image of a non-rusted inner dogleg. (There are plenty of pics of rusted ones!). Can anyone help? I've attached pics of mine for reference. The piece I'm referring to is in front - with the jagged, rusty bottom. Thanks!! jughead
Last reply by grannyknot, -
- 3 followers
- 27 replies
- 12.9k views
I'm going to replace the floors in my 240 over the winter and I've read as many old posts on the topic as I can find. After all that reading I can't figure out if it is better for me to attempt a butt weld or overlap a bit and weld a lap joint on the inside of the car. I'm a novice welder and while I plan to practice a ton before I start I don't want to take on a butt joint if I have little chance of success. I'm also wondering if I do a lap joint do I just weld on the inside of the car? Do I then fill the seam under the car with a seam sealer? How far should I overlap the new pan with the old metal? I'm looking to get the ZF pans and rails. Any thoughts/comments a…
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
- 1.3k views
Earlier this evening I posted a query about the vents on the rear quarter panels; specifically how does any interior air get to the exterior vents on Series 2 240s? I found an informative discussion dating back to May 2011 that indicated there should be a set of holes, similar to those for the radio speakers, on each interior (plastic) quarter panel at about the same elevation as the exterior vent hole. A couple of hours later. mulching through the cluttered outbuilding I euphemistically refer to as my workshop, I found one interior panel that I had dumped in with a pile of discarded parts (who says hoarding is a bad thing?), and yes it does have a block of small holes…
Last reply by Namerow, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 1.1k views
Has anyone disassembled the Takata TK-656 seat belt buckle? if so, what is the procedure? Thanks, Keith
Last reply by Patcon,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.