Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,662 topics in this forum
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I did a foolish thing! Background: Most of the car has been taken to bare metal. The rear clip is painted. So, I am in the process of doing the final prep work to paint the remainder – fenders, doors, hatch, hood, etc. I was trying to finish some of the remaining pieces, but you know how it goes. Every time I passed a door I saw something else, a tinge of rust color I thought, a place that would benefit from a little bit of filler. I just would not let it go. One of my favorite saying is that the enemy of good is better. Unfortunately, I can remember it but I am still unable to practice the sentiment. My total experience spraying is limited to…
Last reply by Patcon, -
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Any recommendations for good fitting car covers ? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by psdenno, -
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I need to make up a couple of the T/C rod rubber bushing locator-flange thingys, can anyone tell me what the diameter of the central hole is? It is somewhere between 13-20mm. Thanks,
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I need to repaint one of my fenders. I've sanded the whole panel with 320 and 400, but didn't take it back down to bare metal. I'm well outside the recoat window now (it's been about a month). Should I re-seal with epoxy? Or just do a couple coats of paint on top?
Last reply by Patcon, -
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I pulled off the wipers and that grill in front of the windshield. It very rusty in there around the wiper motor but looks like its not rusted thru so if I can remove the rust and paint I can save that area. I was thinking to power wash and sand blast but then I got to wondering where would all that water go? So before I fill up some area with water and grungy stuff can someone tell me, will it flow thru to below firewall and out? It must flow thru since those louvers would have let water in on a heavy rain.
Last reply by zKars, -
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I've finished with painting (single stage urethane), and now ready to undo all my screwups. There's some dust and other floaty bits that got into the paint that I want to get out, and a few areas where the paint didn't flow well where I sprayed a little too fast. There's some orange peel I'd like to try and minimize as well, but I don't expect to get it all out. I'm not aiming for a show car finish, but a 10 or 5-footer -- I hope! -- is within reach. So, what products do you guys like? What grits/papers/blocks for wet sanding? Which pads and compounds for polishing?
Last reply by 240Ziggy, -
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While I was at Zcon in Atlanta I got to spend some time with Gnosez at the car show. It was a lot of fun and very informative. While we were talking, we ended up on the topic of the Bad Dog frame rails that Gnosez makes and markets. John was telling me that when the frame rails get added to the floor boards they should not be fully seam welded. They need to be spotted in with gaps between weld sections. John was telling me when people have disregarded his advise and fully welded the floor seam, cracks have appeared at the roof joint at the top of the hatch. We were wondering about that joint and since Matsuo San was just a few feet away, we went to ask him about it. When …
Last reply by Patcon, -
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The car is a 1973 240z. I am restoring the 3 piece steel rear tail light panel. I was simply going to paint in what supposedly is the correct dark grey color, but someone with fair amount of experience supplying parts for these cars told me that the finish was actually lightly textured. Can anyone confirm this for me. If it is true then my plan is to prime the panel and with little more than a dust coat spray a textured paint (color is not correct) over the primer. This would be followed by two coats to cover with the period correct color. I would like to protect with a matte clear, but I am not sure if it will result in a finish that is too glos…
Last reply by qz16, -
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Since getting the '73 back from the body shop where they installed a new driver side door, it won't unlock with the key. It locks with the key from outside just fine. When you try to unlock it you can see the lock button going up about 3/4 of the way but it won't quite unlock. It locks OK from inside with the button. Went back to the body shop, they said it was the cylinder so they couldn't fix it but maybe they just didn't want to do free labor. The lock worked fine before the accident and door swap so I doubt if it's the cylinder. The door handle area wasn't hit.
Last reply by Stanley, -
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Is it possible to replace the floor pan and rails with engine and tranny still in place? I'm just thinking about all the welding that needs to take place. All the fuel and lines have been drained. The frame rails are still ok and don't need replacement. Its just that rust has eaten a lot of the passenger floor pan.
Last reply by wheee!, -
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So I am having a hard time with my front 71 front bumper. I have sent it off to be re plated by a local plater. However it has always seemed to flexing like someone hit something head on. The plater is having a hard time bending back to what I think is normal. So my question is to you guys, is it normal for the front bumper to be 1 1/2 in or so away from the mounting holes ? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by ramsesosirus, -
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Sorry if this is all a bit precious, but it's been almost a year since I got started and I don't want to screw up so close to the end! First question: I'm in the middle of -- what I hope will be-- the final blocking before shooting color (single stage paint). I'm at 320 and for the most part, things are looking good, but I have a couple of spots where I've sanded through the primer and back to metal, and a couple spots where I need a little spot putty that the high build didn't get. Like this spot on the fender, which is probably the worst of it: I see three ways I could go here: Put some spot putty on the low spots, continue blocking to 400 and jus…
Last reply by charliekwin,
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