Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,662 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
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I'm having a tough time locating this panel. All the sources I've found are out of stock. MSA has them without the 240 bumper recess, which I'd prefer to have as I'm not all that skilled at bodywork. Anyone know a source or possibly have one laying around?
Last reply by mayitin, -
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Ran Across DatsunPartsLLC's eBay posting today for a rattle can of paint for restoring the 240z Tail Light shroud. Great, except that it's $30/can, plus another $12 for shipping. I can't seem to find much on the subject; does anyone know a good alternative for getting close to the original color that doesn't does $42 for a can of spraypaint? Thanks much, Bill Ref: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Nissan-OEM-Z-240Z-True-Taillight-Panel-Grey-NEW-Factory-Color-Paint-Can-/400290950344?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d33332cc8&vxp=mtr#ht_1162wt_1037
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 3 followers
- 11 replies
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Like any vintage car NOS parts usually carry a premium price and our cars are no exception. One thing that our cars seem to suffer from is emblem breakage either from age or damage when being removed for a paint job. When I bought my Z the Datsun script emblem on the hatch was missing but the small capture clips were still in the body with paint on them. My only guess is the old emblem did not fare well when it was removed. I actually have a NOS emblem sitting in my display case but with NOS emblems now at $60 and knowing I would eventually be painting the car in the future I did not want to install it on the car. However, I also did not want to look at the void and …
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 18 replies
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When I removed the aftermarket mirrors the PO installed on my car three holes were left on each side of the car when I put a stock mirror back on the drivers side. Two workers at a local paint and body shop gave me different advice on how to fix the holes, what I would call the hard way and the easy way. The hard way is to weld over the holes and the easy way is to put body repair tape on behind the holes and bondo over them. The last time I welded over much larger holes the weld splatter damaged nearby paint a bit though the body shop has welder's paper they say will protect the paint. I plan on putting just enough bondo in the holes with a dab of paint on them to hi…
Last reply by socorob, -
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As I went to close the rear hatch the other day, I felt something give and then the ball joint on the bottom of the gas strut came out. On closer examination, the metal bracket attached to the C-pillar broke partially loose. Being away from home, I left the strut detached and closed the hatch. When I got home, I cannot figure just what failed and the manuals are no help. Is the bracket spot welded to the body? Can't tell without pulling the interior. It appears to still be attached somewhere inside. I'm having a problem trying to bend back into position. What is the proper repair procedure?
Last reply by djwarner, -
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As one of the first steps in the restoration process of my '70 240z I'm trying to determine the full extent of my rust issue and I'm looking for opinions regarding floor tar mat removal. I plan to have "all" rust removed and have a complete paint job back to the original 918 Orange. I know that the safest method is to remove all of the tar mats but most of mine are in such good shape I am hoping that will not be necessary. I have started to remove the undercoating below the floors to identify rusty areas and found that rust in the floors is mainly in areas with damage and the undercoating had cracked or had loosened allowing moisture in. For a test I removed a small a…
Last reply by CanTechZ, -
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And sure enough it did, after a lot of washing and waxing. Meguairs #7 Show Car Glaze is great stuff. When I got it home, After beers and #7 yesterday,
Last reply by Oiluj, -
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Well, its my turn to get upset at these new weatherstrip replacements from MSA. The install went fine, everything fit perfectly. But when I go to shut the door, it has to be slammed in order for the lock to click. Even then, the actual rear of the door is pushed out a good .5 inch. I also notice that the rear of the door isn't even touching the weatherstrip. It seems that the front of the door (where the hinges are) is touching the weatherstripping and is soooo tight, that is isn't allowing the rear of the door to close correctly. I read on here from another thread "Door Slamming Issue Solved FINALLY" that I might need to shim the hinges. Will this resolve my proble…
Last reply by gnosez, -
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I jacked up the rear end for the first time and a bunch of water came out of the front drainage holes (picture of the area I'm talking about below). Seems kinda odd to me because it hasn't rained here in over a week. Makes me think something is plugged, but I'm not familiar enough with this car's (1978 280Z) body to know.
Last reply by EuroDat, -
Hi guys, I have a 'spare' Z that I would like to rebuild to look like a 240ZG racecar. The original that I have in mind is the car that is supposed to have participated in the Fuji 1000 in 1971 or 1972. The only reference I have is an old scalemodel kit (1/24 scale) from Fujimi. I have the following questions for you: 1. Has anyone information of this car (descriptions/pictures) 2. Where to buy a G-Nose, headlight covers and ZG flares I know that MSA has a g-nose kit, but they don't have headlight covers. In another thread someone mentioned sources in Japan, but no further sites specified. Thanks Emil Stojanov The Netherlands
Last reply by graffz, -
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I am putting my 1970 240Z back together. The hood has no sign of any holes being drilled for the mounting of the round Datsun hood badge. (1) Did the early 1970's have this emblem/badge, (2) how far from the front tip of the hood should the bottom of the emblem be?? Coop
Last reply by olzed, -
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Are these cool or what? William at William's auto body made these to show different levels of contrast for the rally stripe. The smaller one is somewhat lighter, but the pics don't show it well. Base paint is a really nice metallic silver. William's Auto Body is "the" local Z car body guy in this area. He's very knowledgeable when it comes to Z's and is a pleasure to work with. Thanks to whoever it was referred me to him!
Last reply by bpilati,
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