Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
2,208 topics in this forum
-
- 3 replies
- 1.5k views
About three years ago, I rebuilt my suspension with new bushings, springs, dampers, and ball joints. I had heard that only Moog and Nissan ball joints are any good, but for some reason, I was in a rush and bought a set at the local import parts store. Normally, their parts are Beck Arnley and the quality is very good, so I bought them there rather than waiting for parts to be shipped from MSA. I installed them, but have never driven the car other than around the block once or twice in the last three years. Now, I'm trying to get the car on the road and while I had the car on jackstands doing some other work, I noticed weird play in the front wheel. I could move the t…
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
-
- 8 replies
- 1.8k views
hey been searching the net for a few days looking for a international reseller for the hyperflex kit for the 240z, to send to australia, no one who sells ES parts in australia get them in for the 240z, and the guy on ebay doesn't ship internationally, and a few suspension online shops don't ship internationally, either anyone else know of a international resller that sends to australia i can get most of the bits and peices from noltec in aus, but the hyperflex kit has all the bits i want, and are cheaper than noltec...
Last reply by Zpeed, -
- 1 reply
- 1.8k views
OK, I used a small hand torch to melt and chip out the old inner bushing of the front left control arm and removed the inner sleeve, about 5 minutes. The inner shell is still there for now, just need to make sure of a few things. The bushings will not fit in the control arm with the inner sheel still in. So, I'm going to hit it with some penetrating fluid and carefully cut it out with a hacksaw. I'll remove the blade from the saw and reinstall it through the arm. Get the inner shell out, clean the 'wall' on the inside, bushings go in with the small sleeve in the picture. Disregard the larger sleeve, that's for the rear, qeustions forthcoming I assure you. Now, does…
Last reply by mlc240z, -
- 4 replies
- 1.1k views
The front end link bushing pack that's in the ES set has the bushings but what is the bolt for? The cupped washers are useless since they aren't fixed to the bolt. If you look closely at the link in the pic the metal between those two sad looking bushings is badly worn. The rear links will be probably be just as bad. MSA has them for about $13 each. Anyone know if these are avilable at a local parts store?
Last reply by xray, -
- 3 replies
- 1.3k views
ES refers to the transverse link as the front control arm and for some reason that was giving me a fit. Anyway, to remove the bushing and the metal sleeve from the control arm I'm thinking of using one of those small propane torches to melt the old rubber bushing out, carefully, and then work the sleeve out. Any thoughts?
Last reply by mlc240z, -
- 73 replies
- 9.3k views
Hello all, I'm considering doing the "Upgrade" to an 81-83 ZX Close Ratio transmission. I have the orig. 1977 5 speed now. It won't be till the weather gets nice again. I live in MN. so I still have her in storage right now. I know that they are a direct bolt in and that I'll have to use the orig. '77 shift lever but I just thought I'd ask those of you that have already done this if you got any pointers or tips??? Also do any of you have any good leads on where to purchase them?? Thanks
Last reply by jmortensen, -
- 9 replies
- 1.8k views
Just spent the afternoon trying to remove these babies, got one out and ended up up removing the entire control arm on the passenger side to get at the other. I have also invested several half hour periods with penetrating oil and a couple of taps here and few bangs there with a ball peen hammer (On a nut covering the ends of course). In the end I am giving up - the bushings look fine enough for now and I can get the shocks in as is. The point I wanted to make is that my old bomb is in pretty good condition no rusted parts (other than a little beneath the battery and the exhaust system), not a single seized screw, bolt or nut, but those g-d d--m spindle pins are pretty n…
Last reply by ncz, -
- 2 replies
- 2.3k views
Strut top insulators for the rear of a 75 260z? These are 20mm (3/4 inch) taller than the front insulators. Thought I had found them via courtesy nissan, they quoted me $43 for the front and $68 for the rears (each), confirmed that, yes the rears are taller than the front...... So I order 2 front + 2 rears and end up with 4 front insulators! (54320-E4100). Call c/nissan back and am told, that sorry, thats all nissan makes now?....So why the different price??? Still waiting to hear back on that one. Has anyone sourced the rears? Do you have the part #? Thanks
Last reply by Dtsnlvrs, -
- 4 replies
- 2k views
i have change the the 4 transverse link bushings with the car is jack up,and tighten the 8 bolts ( with 3.2 kg-m ) that fix the transverse link. then i bring the car on there weels and a person with 60kg on the rear axle and tighten the transvere link inner bolts ( with 15 kg-m ) .....ready ???? so but now if the car bounces it sounds like a old door ??????? where is the mistake ???? i hope sombody understand the quastion from a german with no good englisch language .!!!!!!! thanks:cry:
Last reply by germanZfan, -
- 11 replies
- 2.7k views
One of the bolts on my swaybar was loose; i.e., it took little effort to spin out with the racket. The other three go in tight. I didn't see any stripped threads on the screw, but the threads might be just worn so I can't run the screw down tight. What can you do to tighten up the threads on these bolts? I can get new bolts & see if those threads are tighter? what are those threads? thx
Last reply by montoya_fan01, -
- 2 replies
- 1.8k views
Hi all, I just finished installing new KYBs and refreshing the 33 year old front suspension( new ball joints, outer tie rod ends, urethane bushings). The original parts were totally worn out. The car has only 71,000 original miles, but 33 years of aged rubber. The project went well and I wanted to give a "heads up" about renting tools for the job from AutoZone. My local store had a set of spring compressors that worked really well for a $40 deposit. They also had a tie rod seperator( part#27025) that worked well on both the tie rod ends and the ball joints for a $15 deposit. Don't bother to get the ball joint seperator(#27020) as it's too big to work on the Z's ball joint…
Last reply by Pop's Z, -
- 0 replies
- 2.3k views
Fuhget about it all.....
Last reply by Palmer,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
inline6
