Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
2,208 topics in this forum
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- 7 replies
- 2.3k views
Anyone know? I only need these items as the actual joints are new. The PO apparently felt that the boots were unnecessary and left them off. The parts are basically brand new. Even the grease I wiped away had no grudge in it.
Last reply by Fun_in_my_z, -
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- 5 replies
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There seems to be some play between the inner and outer flanges of my rear hub assemblies. anyone have this problem before?? What could be slipping inside the assembly?? It's the only thing I haven't replaced on my Z
Last reply by Dreco, -
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- 946 views
I Got a new rack unit for the 72 last week and finally got around to changing it. And what i surprise i need help . The old rack wont fit through the space between the engine and the cross member. In the morning before i go to work im going to try unbolting the engine mounts and hoisting the engine up just a little so it will come out. Is this a good way to do it? Or if anyone else knows a better way im all ears :nervous:
Last reply by Fun_in_my_z, -
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I want to fab a pin remover but haven't found the pin thread/pitch size on any thread I've searched. Could someone provide this info in a timely manner? I'm not ready to rebuild the rearend on the Z yet and want the tools right there when I start.
Last reply by ezzzzzzz, -
- 13 replies
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I need some help. I searched the forums and found lots of info on TC Rods & possiable bending/braking issues w/ PU bushings, but my problem is different. When I mount the new PU bushings on the rod, the threaded end of the TC Rod is not exposed to put the nut on. I have the bushings and washer in the right order, but the new PU bushings appear to be bigger. My old bushings were way to trashed to get any understaning of what the original set up was. How do I compress this, or install it??? Thanks in advance for any help... KCDC Keith
Last reply by mperdue, -
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ok i am going to build a 73 240z with o 406ci small block chey im thinkin is gonna makearound 400hp to 425hp but eventually i am gonna ad 150hp shot of nitrous to it and i was wondering if the sotck rear end would hold up to the 400hp for a few months untill i get enough money to buy a ford 9" thanks for the help
Last reply by That Ozzy Guy, -
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I've got my rear struts totally disassembled to do a rear 280zx brake conversion, and have all the necessary parts, but am trying to figure out how to remove the drum brake backing plate and dust shield from the strut tube assemblies. Do I just unbolt the 4 center bolts, unbolt the 2 10mm bolts holding the brake assembly at the bottom and cut off the 2 welded rivets at the top to remove them? or is there more? thanks! (every brake conversion thread seems to assume this portion is obvious.)
Last reply by 2003z, -
- 5 replies
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When I bought my car, it came with the illumina 5 ways (BZ-3012 front and BZ-3013 rear) and Tokico 5022-F and 5022-R springs, attached to the 280Z front and rear suspensions (rear drums and control arms and front toyota brake assemblies) as taken off a race car. Front strut housings have been sectioned and are now shorter than the 240s, Rear strut housings are longer than the stock 240. Front and rear shocks are the same length with the rears having spacers installed. My plan is to cut the spacers in the rear to accomodate the shorter length of the rear housings and use the 280 strut housings in front. Question is, will this give the car an odd rake, or does it sound abo…
Last reply by 2003z, -
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hi can i build 260Z 2+2 springs in a 240Z ?? there are the same ?? are the controlarm from a 260Z 2+2 the same like the one from a 240Z ?? i need a lot of parts for my 240Z and can get som parts from a 260Z 2+2 so i aske what i can use ? thanks for help,his is my first restauration !!
Last reply by Mr Camouflage, -
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I wanted to see if anyone here has repositioned their control arms on the cross member to get rid of bumpsteer and roll center. A guy I talked to said he drilled the new hole 7/8in above and 1/4in out from the original. He seems to think that's correct, but doesn't really remember. I want to get some more opinions before I do this. This is pretty much a daily driver, but I enjoy driving it hard. What have you done and how does it work for you? Thanks Chris
Last reply by cj71z, -
- 3 replies
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Part one: Front Springs First I measured the height of each corner, from the centre of the wheel to the bottom of the guard. The measurements I came up with were: Front left: 360mm After: 342mm Front right: 365mm 345mm Rear left: 345mm Rear right: 340mm New stuff: 4x Tokico HP's and a set of ST springs, lowers an inch. Then the work began. I jacked the car up under the subframe and removed the wheel. Notice how clean the floor is. First step was to disconnect the sway bar. Easy, 14mm socket on the rachet drive. Then was the brake line. 10mm open ender. The only nut that would undo was the one on rhe caliper, so It came off.…
Last reply by speedyblue, -
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I lowered the car 1.5 inches with lowered springs, then I put everything back together and had no problems. Yesterday I installed some bump-steer spacers, put it back together and proceeded to go for a test drive. I heard a loud grinding noise from the front. It seems that the passenger side tie-rod end is now rubbing the inside corner of my 14x6 inch libres. Has anyone had this problem before? To the best of my knowledge the rims aren't bent as my parents were the original owners of this set. I have totally redone the front end(ball joints, tie-rod ends, urethane etc...) The new tie rods are exactly like the ones I removed previously. Any ideas??? Thanks Chris
Last reply by plutovitch,
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