Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
2,208 topics in this forum
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- 1 reply
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Just to see if anyone else has seen the same thing... The rear axle - the part that goes through the hub through the rear bearings and has the wheel studs through it's outer plate. Has anyone looked closely at the BACK of the plate that the wheel studs goes through? On mine there is a thin plate that the wheel studs goes through first (looks like galvanized steel), but I'm looking at the back of the actual heavy steel plate that the wheel studs go through. I'd swear that it's plated! It almost looks like chrome. The front of that plate, where the wheel studs come through was nice and rusty as expected. The back, where you insert the wheel studs, was nice and clean (…
Last reply by 260DET, -
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I finished up the suspension rebuild on my '71. Put in PU bushings, new MSA springs and Illuminas. Now that its all back together, I have a clunk coming from the driver's side rear. The clunk wasn't there before the rebuild. I thought something may not have been tightened down, so I went over everything again. Its all tight. While under there I grabbed the half shaft and twisted it. I get about 1/16 of an inch slack and it does make some noise when I move it. Is any slack acceptable in the half shaft u-joints, or should I just repalce it? TIA, Marty
Last reply by texasz, -
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DUMAS question: I'm replacing my ball joints. I removed the steering knuckle bolts and dropped the torsion arm down to get at the ball joint castle nut. the ball joint is severly stuck in place. I have a ball joint fork, but what I want to know is if it's safe to bolt back up the steering knuckle so I can slam it out? My tie rod ends were stuck bad enough that I had to put a torch on the arm to break it free. I don't have a solid bench or bench vise to do it off the car. Does anyone have a suggestion to break free the ball joint on the car, or is it time for me to invest in a decent bench and vise?
Last reply by drunkenmaster, -
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say i'm going around a tight corner, like a freeway onramp or offramp (you know one of the 25mph ones).. i like to go a LITTLE faster than 25 mph. anyway, when i'm doing "high speed" turns, the steering starts out normal and then the wheels straighten out a lot, so i have to turn in like almost a half a turn to get it back to ALMOST the previous angle. where do i start? i was thinking it was the rag joint, but upon further inspection it appeared normal.... thx
Last reply by PET-240, -
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When I bought my S30 4 years ago I noticed the threaded end links that attached the swaybar ends to the lower control arms in the front needed some attention. The top end of the threaded end link had been rubbing the opening inside the sway bar end to a point where nearly half the material was gone from the end link. I replaced both sides and fitted new polyurethane bushings at the same time. I happened to be looking under there last night and found that the same thing had again happened. Problem is that now the opening in the sway bar end is no longer circular... it's become potatoe shaped and I can only see this getting worse in the future. My front swaybar is a 1" diam…
Last reply by 260DET, -
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I have heard from one source recently that the firmness of these can causes structural failure of other related systems and welds. Any opinion on this?
Last reply by sjcurtis, -
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I'll attach a few pics to help explain. I'm in the process of seperating the rear lower control arms from the strut assembly. I'm having difficulty removing the long double-threaded (each end) rod identified as 'spindle - transverse link'. (Pic 1) <img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/leichenb/1971%20Datsun%20240Z/ZHelp001.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com" height=500 width =600> Is this what I need the spindle-pin remover for? I thought that was for another part (not there yet??) Also, on the front suspension the 'bolt - transverse link' that attaches the lower assembly to the main doesn't want to slide out. The bolts off, but it won't go. Alread…
Last reply by V8-240Z, -
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I was just wondering about ride heights of the 240 & 260z, I have a 260z which im pretty sure sits at stock ride height, there is about 3" between the tyre and the guard, seems to sit kinda high, And i was reading through arizonazcar website which says that the stock ride height of the 240z was 1.5" lower than that of the 280z, http://www.arizonazcar.com/springs.html I know this website is not saying "260z" but my 260z sits awful high...............if anyone can tell me how to upload some pics i can show you all, Would this mean that if i wanted to lower the ride height of my Zed i could just get myself some springs and shocks that were intended for a 240z, bolt them…
Last reply by Gav240z, -
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The half shaft on my Z turn about an inch before the wheels start turning. I'm sure this is the reason for the "thunk" sound I hear when I let out the clutch. Any ideas on what the cause is, u-joints etc..? Ideas would be appreciated. Thanks
Last reply by george71z, -
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Just finished rebuilding my 1980 ZX 5 speed that I have in my 1973 240. Was able to get the rebuild kit on Ebay for $50 which included all the bearings, drive shaft bushing, seals, and gaskets, and purchased the synchros for $60. Fortunately I had the help of my brother in law who is a professional old car mechanic(from 1900 to very early smog years only), otherwise I would probably still be flailing away at it. So nice to have access to all the tools you could think of and the experience of an excellent mechanic to draw on. The tranny now works very smoothly with no bearing noise. Drove it back from CA to CO with no problems(quite thankfull I didn't break down in Lu…
Last reply by tanny, -
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Hello, I searched the forum and get a bit confused. I have a 260Z with R200 (3.9) diff. but this has too much play in the gear. I can get a 280ZX diff(1981) , but the driveshafts are different. Do I have to swap the driveshaft flanges from my old diff ? Thanks for you help Rainer
Last reply by germanz, -
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I have been slowly working on my rear suspension and I'm almost ready to bolt it all back together... but I've come across a strange realization... I don't know which bushing to use on my rear control arm to bolt it below the differential. I unfortunately don't have any of the master parts lists in my energy suspension kit for my 260z, however i'm working on it (contacted them for a copy of the master lists). I only post because I've gone through every bushing in my kit sizing it to the bottom of that "A" frame control arm and none fit snug. They mostly are too small, with the exception of two bushings that appear to be too loose on the area where those bushings slide…
Last reply by jmanz6,
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