Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
2,208 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
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Hey guys, the 240 I got comes with a brand new set of Cosmo adjustable coilovers, racing g spec. Front 6 rear 8 kg rate. Question I have is what will I need to track down to run these. Do I want to run these springs, it won't be a track car but I will drive it with purpose haha. Never done little car suspension. Im used to lifted trucks. Thanks for any direction Also with a coil over strut setup I'm looking at, does this go so low as new spindles and caliper mounts it or is it just a thread sleeve deal. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk
Last reply by Elliott000, -
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- 6 replies
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I'm looking to replace the stock springs and shocks in my 280z, but want to retain stock ride height and maintain some comfort for long drives on bad roads in the northeast, and have slightly sharper handling. I want to be able to do 3-5 hours on highway and back roads without too much discomfort. And keep ride height around stock, a bit higher or lower is fine. I'm also starting to replacing all of the bushings, most with urethane (cheaper than rubber, although maybe rubber would be better for my use), and running stock tire size (185/70R14). From reading around, it looks like the KYB GR-2 shocks would give me what I want, and that something like the Tokico HP or I…
Last reply by gwri8, -
- 3 followers
- 11 replies
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Hello all, Wondering if someone can give me some advice. I am changing the complete set of front bushings. I have the sway bar out and my next task was the steering rack. I cant seem to get the lower steering joint separated from the pinion. I have blasted it with penetrating fluid for two days and have tried heat. I dont have any leverage to separate them and I dont have enough room for a hammer. Anyone have the same issue? Any ideas. As you can see from the images I removed the loosening nut.
Last reply by kunzma, -
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I made a shaft without flexible coupling going from firewall to steering rack, as in pic. In the one pic you can just barely see the oblong hole for the steering lock. In the other pic you can see most of the hole. The spring was taken out in the pic where you can see most of the lock hole. To make the hole appear with the spring in, you have to push really hard on the shaft at the steering wheel. Can I leave that spring out if I don't want a steering lock ? I need the splines to engage a little farther in also. I will be able to do that without the spring. I will try it without the spring. I don't know if you need that spring for some reason. Thank you very much. Also I …
Last reply by timsz, -
- 5 followers
- 22 replies
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Hi Guys, 1972, 240z, has a local shop install brand new KYB (basic struts and shocks) , new eibach progressive springs, new Nissan top mounts, new Nissan front bearing, new Urantha bump stops. The springs are installed correctly( check the part numbers 3 times, the front and back is correct) . But as soon as i picked up the car, I felt like it’s way to bumpy ( owned 2 other 240z in the past) this is maybe the worst ride? The worst part is that the front springs looks bent!! At first I thought it was because the the top of the springs is not seated correctly, but after I jacked the car up, wiggle it around, it’s sitting on the very top. Everyt…
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
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- 8 replies
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Hey everyone, I'm having a basic sway-bar problem, and I can't figure out if it's me or MSA. About a month ago, I bought this sway bar kit from MSA. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4101 It arrived and looked great. A friend and I installed the rear one first, thinking that would be the hardest one, and it took a few hours but it all went smoothly. Then, we got to the front sway bar and it wouldn't fit as it was too wide for the strut towers. We measured it against the stock bar (as you can see) and it's about 1.25 inches wider, and it won't fit (it hits both sides). I called MSA and they checked all their sway bars and they were all 41", but cl…
Last reply by kunzma, -
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Are they good? Thanks 12/70 2.6 block E88 heads Mallory DCOE40 3/2 Twice pipes Tokico 1, 3/4 in sways, ext oil cooler
Last reply by bartsscooterservice, -
- 2 followers
- 23 replies
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Hey guys, the car im building seems to have suffered a bump or two. Iv'e rebuilt the passenger side frame rail (engine bay) and i'm working on the driver, after comparing numbers vs the manual and squaring things up i have a 1/4" difference when it comes to driver vs passenger location of cross member holes (from front to back). Ive got the car level, and multiple string lines for reference on straightness etc. The rails are parallel and square to the car as a whole. My thoughts are since iv'e already located everything on the passenger side should I just match to it? At the end of the day I will be doing a bit of cutting on the fenders and using flares so if there is a s…
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 5 followers
- 12 replies
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Hey guys, I'm wondering if there is something weird going on with my swaybar end links. I recently completed a total overhaul of suspension. I'm using TTT arms front rear, TTT tension rods, and Stance coilovers with camber plates all around. I got new sway bar end links & bushings from MSA as well. In the front, I'm having a difficult time fitting the end links into the swaybar. If I REALLY force it I can get it in there, but that seems wrong. I don't know if they should be under that much stress. It also seems like my suspension travel might be affected based on how freakin stiff these end links seem to be. Am I gonna break something by forcing …
Last reply by AlbatrossCafe, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 702 views
Speaking of swaybar links, I was in the process of reinstalling my rear bar. I am looking at the links being the same length and the factory control arms flipped side to side. This gives me the thought now one control arm is closer to swaybar end then the other. And I have 2 links the same length. Hmmmm. That"s going to put my bar in a preload when tightened up. I am thinking now I should have shortened that one link a long time ago. Anyone else done this or just cranked on the same links on both ends.
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 3 followers
- 22 replies
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I have FINALLY finished just about everything for my coilover conversion in my 1978 280z with Stance coilovers. I also have TTT control arms. I am at the point of dialing-in the ride height. Stance gave me four 6" threaded sleeves. I had them welded right to the hubs in the front and 3" above the hubs in the back. I was hoping to maintain stock height or maybe 1" lower than stock. Well after getting everything on and lowering the car, it looks like the front was lowered around 1" and the back was lowered around 2". I would like to crank the rear up another inch. The problem is, the threaded sleeve is currently only on by about 5 threads in both front/rear. I a…
Last reply by AlbatrossCafe, -
- 2 followers
- 8 replies
- 1.2k views
And there was some beer involved. And grease. Lots of grease. The aftermath: You, my friend, definitely earned your keep yesterday!
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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