Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
2,208 topics in this forum
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- 8 replies
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Does any one have any experiences with these two brands of strut cartridges my intended use for the car is just the occasional brisk drive through the hills and crusing around. Both brands are gas presurised. My car is an Aussie 260Z 1974 2seater 5spd manual {still pre - smog controls over here} . any opinions would be appreciated.
Last reply by Zvoiture, -
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Just received my new poly bushings and there are no outside sleeves. I've read former threads and everybody seems to be cuttin', chislin' the old ones out. So can I assume the poly's don't require an outside sleeve? I have my own press so I'll get them out in one piece. Thanks Dave
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
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I'm about ready to give up! I have owned this '73 240 for 22 years, and it has always had a small vibration at speed, usually 70 mph....and in right hand corners at speed it really shakes. I just got it back from what is supposed to be the best suspension shop in town, and they can't figure it out. Everything has been checked out, bushings, u-joints, etc. Anybody got any bright ideas? Thanks.
Last reply by WGHungerford, -
Will a 82 280zx turbo fuel pump work on a 75 280z. I need to know cause my fuel pump is out and I want to know if a turbo fuel pump will work, cause my friend has one. Thanks!!!
Last reply by 1wildzer, -
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1. I think the steering column might be too close to my headers, there is a slight rub mark on both the headers and on the steering column. 2. The steering u-joint. Is this replaceable? I seem to have alot of play in the wheel and I think this might be where its coming from. I didn't circle it, but the steering coupler needs replaced, any success with poly?
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
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G/day I need a bit of help , Ive just recently purchased an aussie 74 260Z and there seemed to be some movement in the back end on acceleration and braking so i am pulling out the rear end to replace anything that doesnt look good . but i am having trouble removing the outer pivot bolts where they go through the cast metal hub , Ive removed the locking bolts/cotter pins and sprayed plenty of CRC- on them Ive only got them to move about 3/8" so far , are there any tricks to get them out.
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
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I am replacing the rear struts this weekend and my repair manual says to remove the transverse link spindle. I have removed the 2 nuts on each end but the lock bolt is stuck fast. My question is it possible to remove the strut with out removing the lock bolt? I have not given it a try yet because my sons have lost both of my 14 mm opened end wrenches that I need to remove the axel / U-joint so I have to run to town and purchase 2 new wrenches. (What I did to my dad is coming back to haunt me!) Owen K
Last reply by owenk, -
never mind
Last reply by guy_geo, -
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hey all, I have a 72 240z with a five speed from a 280. It had a short shifter on it. Which sounds like it is cool, but It is SO hard to shift. I feel like it has gotten to the point where the shifter is slowing me down. I was wondering if the reason it is so hard to shift is that there is something wrong with my tranny, or if its just because of the lack of torque due to the short shifter. any input would be appreciated
Last reply by Phacade, -
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Here I go... Out the PNEUS MERDIQUES that were on my car. here comes the new Falken Azenis... Can't wait to try them and exploit the suspension on my car!!!!! http://www.vulcantire.com/azenis_t.htm
Last reply by DJEuphoriKa, -
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I have a 240z with a 5 speed (out of a 280z?) The rear housing bearing has gone out. Were can I get this bearing? I called nissan and they said I had to order the hole rear housing.
Last reply by AxtellZ, -
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Here's a trick I forgot about until a friend reminded me today... If you need to remove your calipers or wheel cylinders or replace brake lines or hoses, you usually end up with a big mess of fluid - plus you end up having to refill the lines and bleeding the master cylinder. If you don't need to replace all the fluid, simply remove the master cylinder caps and place two layers of good quality Saran Wrap over the resevoirs and then replace the caps. This will not allow any air to enter when you undo the fittings from where you are working. With no air entering up top, no fluid will come out. Once you get things back together - it is a much easier job to simply bleed th…
Last reply by hmsports,
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