Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
2,213 topics in this forum
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What type of oil do you put in the strut cartridge before you install the shock? I've read transmission fluid works. Or is this something that is not too precise?
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I have a late 260. I have owned it about 6 months and ran the tires that came on it until hot weather got here. They had just a little cracking showing around the rim so I got new tires. I was leery of a blow out in the 100 degree Ms heat. My tire shop cannot get the frontend to align with the new tires on it. There is a terrible steering wheel shake that starts about 45 mph. He has aligned the front end and spin balanced the tires a couple of times. I have mag rims on it and not original wheels. Today he put new lug nuts on it that were supposed to help center the wheel better on the studs but that didn't help at all. The tie rod ends are all ok and they have been grease…
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I ordered these some time ago off of ebay, and just got them on the car with new KYB struts 2 weeks ago. (The fronts were installed months ago and I just finished the rears.) I really like them, they are stiff, but not kidney killers by any stretch. There is almost no body roll any more and the handeling improvements were dramatic. Installation was a breeze, no sectioning required, and there is no need to remove the lower spring perch unless you have tire interface issues. I wouldn't recomend them if you are looking to lower the car more than an inch or so, but if you want to have the ability to tweek your ride height slightly, this is a high quality reasonably priced opt…
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Long story short I installed new lower ball joints about 6 months ago and about a 2 weeks ago I installed new tie rod ends. Now both have grease nipples but when I installed them I didn't grease them up as I assumed stupidly that they were pre greased. Driving home last night I heard that same noise I was hearing when I had to replace my tie rods. It's a creaky noise when u move the steering wheel especially when the car is stopped or moving slow. Tonight I greased them up with the grease gun but my grease gun won't fit under the ball joints so I have to get another. I can still hear that noise I would have only driven 80miles and most of it would have been straight drivi…
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Ok, this is the last dumb question I ask ( I hope). Every article I've read on the R200 swap into a 71 Z say's to get the r200 HALF SHAFTS also.Motorsport Auto tells me that the R180 halfshafts will work fine. Has anybody used the R180 halfshafts on the r200 swap?Will it work?
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My steering is a little vague (1977 coupe )so Im going to start at the coupler and go from there. Do I just un-bolt the coupler itselfe or do any other componets have to come off such as the u joint or lower rod? It's not really covered well in the manual I have. Thanks.
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In getting the car ready to go back together-not that I am close to that point, I have come upon yet another quandry. What do you do to ready the trany-not rebuilding, but ceaning and coating. If Aluminum is cleaned with Marine Clean, it looks great for a week or so, and then starts to develop oxidation because there is nothing coating the surface to protect it. What are you guys doing-if anything? Oiling, waxing, clear coat, plating, dare I say it, buffing it out? Will
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I was looking at the swaybar links that came with my Energy Suspensions Urethane kit, and noticed that the distance between the washers is greater than the factory pieces. This looks like it would effectively pre-load the swaybar. Any thoughts? I cleaned up a set of factory links, so I could use them instead of those supplied with the kit. I am at a quandry over which would be better to use, authentic pieces or third party. Will
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I have a 1974 260z which i just bought it has been stored in a garrage for 4 years and hasn't been started since i got it. It started fine and ran fine , a new fuel filter some fluids and seemed to run fine. Then the problems started, when I mash the brake petal the engine surges and when I put it in drive it shifts erratically. I'm sure its a vaccume leak, but I cannot find where can someone shed some light on this for me????
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Does anyone have any pictures of the rear sway bar from MSA? I would like to see how it is mounted. I already have the bar and I was trying to place it to see where I needed to drill the mounting holes. One problem is that the exhaust is in the way. The other is that it doesn't "look" like it will work without some interference somewhere. Things are pretty tight in there. I would like to know exactly what I need to do before cutting the exhaust down. Thanks in advance. P.S. I did search, no pics were available.
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i went to replace my control arm bushings with MSA's urethane ones and i pulled out these: here you can barely see the PI imprint here's the MSA right next to it and here's the top, where you can see the offset. they have either PI or IP stamped on them and appear to be metal with small urethane bushings. are these worth keeping instead of the urethane ones? any idea why they're offset? Jason
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To your knowledge does anyone sell rebuilt trannies for our Zs? I lost fifth all of a sudden without any notice on the freeway this AM, but did make it to work in 4th just fine, 1/2/3 whine due to what I believe to be one of their shaft bearings having spun itself... Basically this one's had it... Yeah I could go and get another tranny from the junkyard but who's to say how many XXXXXX miles it will have and how long it will last... I could give my tranny to someone to have it rebuilt but that means I'd be dead in the water for a while... that's why I wonder if there still exists someone that sells them outright? Any clues? Thanks, -e
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