Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
2,208 topics in this forum
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After about 3 months, I finally tossed the wheels back on the Z (1971 240z). I am in the process of getting the vehicle ready to pass an out of province inspection. When I initially brought it in, they said I needed a new steering rack. Clearly not very easy to come across(New). I've since, dissembled the rack, tightened the bushings (large screw thing in the middle of the lock nut). Replaced rack bushings, new steering coupler, and tie rod ends. Today was the first time I was able to give the steering a turn. There is noticeable amount of play within the rack that I never noticed before. Perhaps its the more stiff poly bushings which make it more pronounced. But des…
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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i bought the front-rear kit, but there are no instructions. from what i see, the rear sway bar mount-to-body goes toward the front of the car, kind of behind the seats? any help and pics would be greatly appreciated thanks all sb
Last reply by sweatybetty, -
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As a 280Z owner I've found out that Nissan no longer produces the taller REAR STRUT INSULATORS needed for these models. Although some people opt for the 240Z and 260Z insulators (those are the same for front or back) the rear of the 280Z will drop about 0.75" if the shorter insulators are installed in the rear. ZCar Depot has just made available a billet aluminum spacer which (when placed atop the shorter 240Z/260Z insulator) will make up for the needed height. I'm concerned that (in spite of maintaining OE suspension geometry and stance) a metal spacer in direct contact with the car body will not function as effectively as a vibration isolator as the original rubber…
Last reply by dmorales-bello, -
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Hello I recently bought a 1976 280z and it is sitting pretty high and I would like to lower it respectably not slam it. I was wondering if a set of 240 springs would be compatible with it to bring the height down. Or what would be the best thing to do. I do not have a lot of money to throw at it so I am not looking at getting coil overs.
Last reply by 87mj, -
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I bought new sway bar mount bushings from rock auto for my'72 240z. The brand was Beck Arnley and they were identified to fit my year. As you can see from the old vs. New comparison pictures they seem too tall. The rubber is very dense, I'm not sure it will compress when I install them. Has anyone else encountered this? Am I right that they are too tall, or will they compress? thanks, Steve
Last reply by sdyck, -
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I just received a pair of rear KYB strut inserts, part# 361001. I know they have to be compressed and allowed to rebound a few times to "activate" them. As I did this the pressure needed to push the piston down did increase some but after 10 - 15 cycles, it still does not feel stiff enough. I know these are considered as close to a factory replacement that is available but I was hoping for a little more pressure. What has been your take on these out of the box?
Last reply by Hardway, -
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I decided to remove the front strut after noticing that the passenger side was weeping a good amount of oil and the bounce test seemed iffy when pressed down on that corner. It seemed fine when bouncing the middle front but not so much on the corner. after getting the strut out and the spring off I found little to no damping action at all in compression or rebound. It was the orig strut hardware (not a cartridge). I decided to try replacing the oil (after some research I ended up with some 15wt fork oil from a motorcycle shop, belray IIRC), 310ml, put a new o ring in as the old one seemed a bit deformed, reassembled and cycled thru a few times (much better now), then…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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Well I'm getting very close to re-assembly time after refinishing all of the suspension parts and fasteners. Just a few more items to aquire to complete the suspension refresh/brake upgrade. Long story short; after paying someone to bead blast all my suspension parts and doing a nice job painting everything very carefully with a rattle can ($300 blasting, $~100 paint & supplies), I decided I wanted to go ahead and have it all stripped and powder coated. To my surprise, I was able to get it all bead blasted and powder coated for roughly the same ($375) cost as the original finishing job. Woohoo! And boy does it look great! I should have gone this route in the first p…
Last reply by santamaus, -
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Ever since I bought my '71 240z in June 2014 the rear of the car would squat down at take off but never rebound. I could tell as I was driving down the highway the car was nose high. I witnessed just how bad it was when I had to take the car for its annual inspection watched the inspector drive it. Even sitting still the rear always sat lower than the front of the car. At first I thought the strut inserts were shot (and they were) but even after replacing them there was very little improvement. Seeing that the springs were at least 47 years old I was sure they were fatigued. Not wanting to lower the car with Eibach or Vogtland springs but still wanting a new spring …
Last reply by dmorales-bello, -
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I've seen 2 different "complete" electric power steering kits advertised. One claims it is adjustable and costs $1500.00, $600.00 more that n the other. The other kit sells for $900.00 and claims its very easy to install. Claims everything can be installed in a few hours after old column, etc. is removed. Does anyone have any experience with these kits they can share?
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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see new link My guess is this is excessive..
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I am refurbishing my halfshafts and would like to know what people are using for lubrication of the ball and spacer splines inside the sleeve yokes. The manual calls for MIL G2108 or G 10924 grease. Has anyone tried a CV joint grease. It seems a bit thin but might be better for sliding friction. Also seeing some minor scuffing on the spline surfaces and some minor circumferential scratches on some of the nylon spacers. Is this normal. I have used some fine polishing paper on the splines to remove minor imperfections.
Last reply by Patcon,
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