Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
2,208 topics in this forum
-
- 8 followers
- 33 replies
- 16k views
The final word on the Eibach Springs for the S30. I read up on them on this site and ordered a set. I have the suspension pulled and want to make sure I have it correct. Their seems to be much confusion on front and rear placement of the new progressive springs. I thought I had the placement figured out until I pulled the suspension and became confused. The stock springs are long in the rear and shorter up front. The Eibach progressive are the opposite according to most of what I have read on this site. So do I have it correct the Long Eibach springs ending in the number 01 go on the front and the short springs ending in the number 02 go on the rear. Correct?
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
-
- 2 followers
- 92 replies
- 20.3k views
The need to extract my rear strut inserts had me facing the same challenge as many other owners needing to replace the struts on their classic Z, removing the dreaded gland nuts. More often than not they are seized on due to years of use. Worse, it seems to be the best method for getting them off by using two opposing pipe wrenches can also be the most damaging. I went through this same exercise with my 1972 lime green 240z several years ago and vowed this time would be different. I remember seeing an workshop manual showing how these were installed at the factory using a special made socket and wrench. I searched for a long time to find an 8-point socket of any kind…
Last reply by Diseazd, -
- 3 replies
- 1.2k views
I have this mustache bar out of the Z I am currently working on. I believe this bar is correct for the R200 diff's. Can somebody confirm that for me? I am going to rebush it but don't want to do it if it's not the right bar...
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 1 reply
- 2.5k views
Easier than I figured it would be. car on jacks, tires off 17mm strut bolts off, lift the strut of the steering knuckle, did not disconnect any brake calipers or lines, just moved it back, Caste nut, BFH with the knuckle supported on a 2*6, a light tap and the knuckle pops off, leave the tie rod attached just move away. next up the 2 14mm and pull the TC rod off. Now I went a bit more than prob had to, loosen the control arm bushing and remove the nut, pull the entire control arn off. I did this mainly to clean it up, and I wanted to see how the bushing looked. It was fine, so the new ones I was waiting on can just be spare parts. It seemed nice firm with no signs of brea…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
- 1 follower
- 5 replies
- 1.7k views
Does anyone have a pic of how the FutoFab rear mounting, rear sway bar attaches to the bracket behind the Diff? The little diagram that comes with it doesn't make a lot of sense to me, I have emailed Dave but I guess he is off on holidays. This is the rear sway bar marked Orange Line but really it is an Addco product. Thanks, Chris
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
- 0 replies
- 1.3k views
As I dig into ball joints, I look at correcting a leaking strut. I prefer to keep things stock, and assuming its not already been replace with a gas charged cartridge, does anyone have exp with rebuilding the stock setup? the damping seems fine to me as is, so I presume its ok only needing a seal to stop the oil loss. If so from looking at the FSM there is reference to an "oil seal" and an "o ring". Both these seem to have something to do with keeping the oil in the strut.
Last reply by Dave WM, -
- 17 replies
- 2.6k views
while I was under the car snapping the down pipe bolt, I happened to notice the TC bushing looks in pretty sad shape, crack radiating from the center. anyway I have some new bushing and everywhere is see people are replacing with the wheels off and the suspension hanging. This seems to put the TC rod in sharp angle that seems like it would make it harder to compress and install the new bushings. Is there a reason not to just do them when the car is on the ramps and the suspension is at a normal ride height? same applies to the sway bar end link bushings?
Last reply by Dave WM, -
- 0 replies
- 1.1k views
I am looking for NOS studs (differential mount to mustache bar), nuts, and differential cover bolts. Anyone know where these can be purchased. I have a NOS set of R200 studs sold to me as R180 but R200 are larger studs.
Last reply by JLPurcell, -
- 1 follower
- 8 replies
- 2.4k views
Does anyone know who makes Del-A-Lum LCA bushings for Datsun front LCA's. Specifically 240Z-280Z? Not looking for Poly and not looking for Mono-Ball. Specifically want the Del-A-lum style. These are for Third Gen Camaro's, but I want a similar product.
Last reply by Chickenman, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 1k views
I have a low mileage '71 that I believe has never been tore apart. Over the weekend, I removed the steering rack. The bolts came off fairly easily. BUT the threads on the retaining bolt that connects the steering column to the rack were completely destroyed. I thought I was going to snap the bolt. It looked like it was badly cross threaded. I don't know if I will be able to find the correct replacement because there aren't many threads on it that are any good. Is that normal wear in order to keep the bolt from coming unscrewed or was the bolt cross threaded?
Last reply by 87mj, -
- 6 replies
- 8.2k views
I had to do this job this past week so i thought I would post some pics. I had found threads on -how to- on removing the outer bushings but not to many pics. You know pics say a thousand words so I will post some. I also came across a better way (for me anyway) to remove that tough rubber of the old bushings. I took a 1" hole saw and it fits over the inner part of the bushing perfectly to use as a guide.It also takes out most of the rubber from the outer shell which helps you see what your doing better when you start cutting. The hole saw rips thru the rubber in 30 seconds and no burning rubber.A side note: I would highly recommend leaving the inner bushing bolts installe…
Last reply by HuD 91gt, -
- 1 follower
- 6 replies
- 1.8k views
I rebuild the steering rack and installed new OEM bushings on my 1972 240Z. The passenger side seems nice and tight but the driver side seems to allow the rack to twist somewhat. I have installed the rack stop which only controls rotation in one direction. Is some movement OK (there seems to be no real up or down movement) or should I apply a shim under the bushing so it will provide better clamping.
Last reply by 52crankman,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
Yarb
