Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
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My '71 Z is currently in the shop having the rear wheel bearings replaced. I found some good advice in various threads on this site and gave my mechanic a copy of the FSM section on replacing the rear bearings. I also gave him an illustrated parts breakdown sheet showing all parts and order of assembly, Now for the problem. The bearings need to have shims and the old shims are not filling the space. He's checked the usual sources, dealer, MSA, and no one has shims. It was suggested he try a junk yard. Anyone have experience or suggestions with rear wheel bearing shims? Dennis
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Who has detailed knowledge of clean and lube the sliding joint part of the 1972 240Z axles. talking about removing the boot and breaking the axles onto their two parts, clean and lube...then of course get the thing back together!!! what you got folks. Thanks
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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Ok I'm hoping for opinions from those who know better. I'm going to replace my rear struts, I seem to be bottoming out over bumps, get a pretty good hit. I was planning on replacing my bushings at the same time , but after taking a look the bushings don't look bad. The worst appears to be the spindle shaft, a little dry. The Mustashe bar is also a little hard, but I was planning on going back stock as I don't want things to be super hard and I see that the stock Mustashe bar bushing is NLA and I've read negative things on the poly urethane bush. Thoughts? Thanks, Steve
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Does anyone make a rear mounted rear sway bar for our Z's anymore? All I can find is MSA's combo but I'm pretty sure that is a front mounted rear bar. Once you weld in the BadDog rail extensions it's hard to find a place to mount the forward mounted bar without spacers of some kind. Thanks, Chris
Last reply by gnosez, -
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think of buying these. im not racing, just looking for a nice street ride http://www.ebay.com/itm/KYB-4-SHOCKS-LOWERING-GERMAN-SPRINGS-fits-NISSAN-DATSUN-240Z-70-71-72-73-260Z/311009549336?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36213%26meid%3D061ad76cede44778b8eb690a9462e7cc%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D311539357094 opinions? thanks all sb
Last reply by sweatybetty, -
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I'm (in no hurry) done with the rear suspension bushings and started on the front today. I figure I need something on the tie rod ends since the rubber boots have long been gone on mine. All I can find are poly dust boots, unless I replace the whole tie rod (replacement tie rods come with rubber boots, from what I can find) For those of you that have them, do the poly dust boots fit well? Can I source some rubber dust boots, instead?
Last reply by James@TheZStore, -
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anyone tried these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-280-fits-R180-open-diffs-Limited-Slip-Differential-Conversion-Kit-/262292336254?hash=item3d11d76e7e:g:gyMAAOSwnDZT9CVj&vxp=mtr
Last reply by gnosez, -
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I had one fall off in my driveway luckily and put it back on this morning, torqued to 50 lbs per FSM. Went to the other side and it was very close to falling off! I changed all those bushings out a couple of years ago and never thought about the nuts backing off but they do. I used Loctite on mine but another member said he put two nuts on each side. I'm going to get a couple of extra nuts and do that myself someday. It drives like it's on a rail again, very responsive in the curves. Thought I'd share a little FYI.
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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been amassing parts for a suspension re-vamp and reading many posts (thanks for the tech tips Blue!) parts list is as follows: · Eibach progressive lowering springs · Staag struts · KYB boots · Ball/socket TC end upgrage · New rubber TC bushings · MSA performance swaybar kit · Speed-bleeders for the brakes (love these things!) got clearance to spend the weekend in z-land, and set to getting it done. car up on stands, wheels off and I figured i’d try to avoid taking off the control arms. front was easy enough, with the sway bar out of the way it was just a matter of disconnecting the tie rod ends, unhooking the brake l…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
Mystery clunk 1 2
by Diseazd- 1 follower
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Just fixed another mystery clunk. My 72 (green) just developed the dreaded clunk. No problem, I've got a R/T mount so it's got to be the half shaft u joints. I pulled 'em off and had them replaced. Took her for a drive looking for a nice quiet ride......not. The clunk was still there. I put it back on the lift and wrenched the driveshaft around......must be in the drive shaft. While it was up on the lift, I checked for loose bolts. The mustache bar (two vertical bolts) were tight as a tick as well as the big control arm bolts. The two bolts from the back of the diff were pretty tight too, I could only get a quarter of a turn. I decided to drive her again before pulling th…
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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I bought and installed this kit,http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20j/23-4190 about 4 yrs ago, I've only done about 4000 miles in that time and you can see the white pucks are pretty trashed. I have not done any tracking of the car, the boots have no splits so there was no contamination and the nuts were tightened using the included distance gauge. Recently some else mentioned this same thing and that is why I checked mine. MSA hasn't responded to my inquiry yet ( just did it an hour ago) Does anyone else make these pucks out of something a little stronger? Thanks, Chris
Last reply by Namerow, -
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Hi all - I am replacing the struts in a 240, transplanting from another. I have, in the process, lost the bolts that hold the ball joint to the strut housing. Does anyone know/remember the size? I don't seem to have any on hand. Thanks! Curtis
Last reply by zject,
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