Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
2,208 topics in this forum
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- 5 replies
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Hi everyone, I'm in process of doing urethane bushings and coil-overs, and have noticed something fishy. As the title indicates, the mustache bar bolts aren't parallel, and the passenger-side one is kicked forward a solid 15 degrees or so. Both bolts are mounted to the rear of the holes from which they protrude, are straight and are very solidly attached. There are zero signs of frame distress except for immediately at the bolt, it simply looks like the entire bolt was rocked forward. Can these bolts be pulled straight? They disappear into the frame, so I'm leary about trying anything for fear of breaking an internal weld or something equally catastrophic. As a relat…
Last reply by zKars, -
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I don't see any grease fittings or plugs for grease fittings on the rack and pinion on my 76. I bought this car about 2 years ago and the boots (bellows) were falling apart so I finally got around to getting everything cleaned up. There didn't seem to be any "grittiness" to it and it seems to turn easy and smoothly so I'm hoping everything is still OK. As far as greasing, Do I just turn the steering as far as possible in one direction and coat the rack with grease then turn it in the other direction and do the same? Thanks Gary
Last reply by Captain_Zeros, -
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Hello, Does anyone have a idea of who makes coil spring spaces for the stock springs (sagging coil springs) Thanks for your advice in advance.
Last reply by John Coffey, -
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I have a 77 280Z. Im putting on lowering springs and 240Z spring top insulators on the rears. Do the spindle pins need to come out for this? What all do you need to disconnect to get the suspension to drop low enough? Thanks.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I just got my new bushing set from MSA for the front sway bar. It looks pretty straightforward to install, but my question is whether there are any tips on doing the installation? Should I try to get most of it done with the bar completely off the car, or get the two main bushings in place on the car and then work on the ends? Thanks in advance, Charlie
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Back in March I posted a question about how to get the rear strut into the lower control arm.. I was tearing up bushings trying to force it in. Zed Head wrote on March 1 suggesting I put a greased scraper at each end of the strut assembly and shove it in that way. I thought it sounded crazy, but gave it a try anyway. And it worked! Thank you zed head!
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Hey guys I've had my 71' 240z for a couple months now but just got it running a few days ago, motors strong but rear end feels like its sliding back and forth while driving?! Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
Last reply by Brockus95, -
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While the custom body shop starts to strip the paint and do the body work, I need to either upgrade or refresh the suspension, among other things. VIN is HLS30-13907 mfg. 11/70 I'm the original owner. Car has 58k miles but was in an accident years ago and fixed. Pennsylvania weather wasn't very kind to my rear quarterpanels. Now the custom shop needs to get it right. All struts are original with Koni shocks, but the shocks are old. I see there are plenty of threads for me to look at. I guess it'll take me some time to review them. Offset Delrin bushings are installed. I see the Z Store mentioned as a supplier site. I need to upgrade the brakes, front and rear. I wo…
Last reply by calicocat, -
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I'm refreshing the suspension on my 76. I have no history regrading the car's maintenance. Without taking the shock (strut) apart (gland packing nut, etc), how can I tell if they are the originals and still OK? For example, when I push the piston in, I get a smooth steady resistance and the same when I pull it back out. They feel like they would be oil filled -- when I push them in, they stay there. I've haven't driven the car on the street yet, but before I took the suspension apart, when I pushed down on the car and then let go, it didn't continue to bounce. If this sounds normal for these cars, I plan on just replacing the ball joints and bushings for now and leave t…
Last reply by Captain_Zeros, -
- 10 replies
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The steering u joint on my car that is on the lower end of the steering column in the engine bay right above the rack itself has some play in it that is noticeable when driving. Is there a replacement (short of buying a whole column) or a way of fixing it? Can it be removed from the steering column or is it pressed on? I have thought of taking it apart if I can and then squishing the u joint part in a vise so it grips the cross arm part more tightly after taking the yoke apart (if that can be done). Below is an old thread on this. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/suspension-steering-s30/25012-new-source-steering-u-joints.html
Last reply by bacarl, -
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For a stock '78 280Z 2+2 I'm looking for the approximate length of the front/rear compressed strut/spring combo under normal static load from the top of the upper strut mount to the weld on the lowest portion of the strut where it meets the knuckle. Does anyone have this measurement?
Last reply by Jay_Z, -
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Hey mates The day has come that I need to machine my front rotors and thus need to remove them to take them to a shop. First question, I'm going to repack the bearings - as its been three years since I did them - and wanted to know what is the best way to clean them. I want to clean all the old...ish grease out and put fresh nice grease in. Secondly, what is the best time - suspension loaded or in the air (no load) - to torque everything down to specs? I did my suspension a while ago and just want to make sure all the bolts are nice and torqued like they'res supposed to be. Thanks Jan
Last reply by EuroDat,
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