Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
2,208 topics in this forum
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- 29 replies
- 7.1k views
I am preparing to replace the worn shocks on my 70Z. I've never done this before and am quite a novice so I've enlisted my Dad to come help. We are both looking at all of the available manuals and they make it quite clear that the entire wheel hub needs to come off to change the shocks. Are we missing something? Is it possible to replace the shocks without removing the entire wheel hub? Can you pull them out the top without removing the entire deal? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks. Derek
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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- 8 replies
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I have a early 1974 260z new front end new stock springs and tokico hp shocks. everything is new. alignment is perfect camber and caster. I have tt tunning lower adjustable control arms and tt tunning adjustable tension control rods . very happy so far except for the bump steer when I hit a bump the steering wheel jerks. no experience in bump steer or bump stop parts . so which one do I change or add ?thanks kully
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 33 replies
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The time has come for me to replace my springs. MSA only has the progressive rate Eibach speings. These sound good but I have seen some threads that note problems with these progressive springs. Both ride height and that the top coils fully compress at rest...so why have them? Any info or feedback you may have will be welcome. Thanks
Last reply by CG240Z, -
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While working on yet another Z, I discovered these "gems". Any one seen these before? They appear to made from machined originals, the casting of the front end is too close. There is a fair bit of corrosion and pitting on the end where the bushings go, not sure if I want to risk using them. Interesting concept at least. Stock mounting and bushings, but adjustable caster. Anybody wants these (reads brave enough to try them) let me know...
Last reply by zKars, -
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Hi everyone, I am new here. I just picked up a 76 280z with a 350 chevy small block from a 70 camaro. The front springs that are currently in the car (yellow) I assume are aftermarket. They have no markings on them whatsoever. They are 100% compressed when the car sits, meaning coil sits on coil all the way up. I need to bring the front end up, looking for about a 1"-1.5" drop from factory to fit my new wheels, right now it has 195/75/14's on the front and are tucked. As you can imagine its super stiff hitting bumps since the springs are so compressed. I was wondering if there are any aftermarket springs available that would support the added weight of the chevy 350 (plus…
Last reply by DATSIK, -
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I had a strange shimmy in my rt front wheel for quite a while that just seemed to get worse and worse as time went by. I was starting to get a strange scuffed wear pattern on the outside edge of the tire too. When making turns into parking lots or turning corners i'de hear a popping noise. Then in the final round the tire started shaking. Shaking so much that it started to shake the trans oil out of the strut. I first thought loose strut. Tightened down the gland nut. No fix. Tightened the steering rack hold downs. No fix. Then replaced the strut with good one.No fix. Then tightened down the wheel bearing. No fix. Then rotated the front tire to the back. A little improve…
Last reply by gnosez, -
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I just pulled the rear damper out of the upright shock tube on the driver side rear. (I'm struggling with the gland nut on the passenger side assembly but I'll get it). And the part number I find on the silver KYB damper is 361001 ODO7 (but that might be 0D07). I was curious if this part by it's numbering would be the (now 40 year old) shock the car originally came with. There are a few reasons that lead me to believe these are originals: 1. I replaced the spindle pins (along with bushings and other things) back in 2009JUN and they (the pins) seemed to have never been removed. 2. The rear springs seem to be pretty original now that I have them out and can see them. If you…
Last reply by DoctorMuffn, -
- 12 replies
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I will be replacing the rack and pinion boots this weekend, along with new tie rod ends. My Haynes repair manual, as well as the "How To Restore Z" book both say it's a good idea to top off the grease in the rack,...but neiter of them tell me how to do this. How do I go about greaseing the rack on a 1972 240Z?
Last reply by Mikes Z car, -
So after putting the front suspension back together on my '72 the King lowering springs are not going to cut it for me. They do work but the car sits too low and less than an inch off the bump stop. I want to get back to something a little more stock looking. On Zcar.com several members reported back in the late 90's and mid 2000's about using some front Chevette springs for the front and rear of a Z. They are not a bolt in affair as they have to be cut to produce the ride height that is desired but they are the correct diameter. The years to get look to be '77-85, auto. trans, and air conditioning. Moog #6558 comes up for this and seems to be what everyone else use…
Last reply by John Coffey, -
- 9 replies
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I was working on the insulators for one of my cars and cleaned them up and stripped the paint. I have two questions: How do you know when they need replacing. The rubber does not appear to be cracked or overly dry. I could respray them and install and put that money some where else. Also how do you remove the bearing from inside the insulator? The ones there now are very rough feeling. Thanks, Charles
Last reply by Patcon, -
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- 3.6k views
I have taken apart the front suspension and where the strut connects to a ball joint is there a dust cover there? On item #9 in the picture. Not the tie rod end area.
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
- 9 replies
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Can anyone tell me if they know what these two oval plates are from. They were in a box of old suspension components. They are about 1/16" thick and approximately 4" long. Thanks, Matt
Last reply by Mikes Z car,
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