Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
2,208 topics in this forum
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Struts & springs /w poly bump stops are new from last year. Here is the list so far. I'm thinking of doing the wheel bearings as well but haven't quite decided. Am I missing anything which could be added? (bushings will be rubber as our streets are pretty rough up here) Hawk HPS brake pads Earl's SS brake lines Brake rotors Caliper rebuild kit Tension Rod kit from MSA Front Tension Rod Bushing (2) Front Control Arm Bushing (2) Front Sway Bar End Link Bushing (8) Front Sway Bar to Frame Bushing (2) Rack Bushing Drivers Side (1) Rack Bushing Passengers Side (1) Steering Column Coupler (1) Sway bar end links Strut bearings Tie rod end Ball joints
Last reply by Ptero, -
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Looking for ideas of what to check to get this figured out. The Z has been in garage for about the last 5 years, finally got it running and for the most part all is well except I dont like the way it feels when changing gears and highway driving. All the suspension is new, tokico struts/springs (although they were replaced 5 years ago), bushings, mounts, ect. Feels "squirrely" to me and I am getting some drift when changing gears, mostly above 3rd. Its on stock 14" mags with Stinger 215 60 r14's, which I have tried a few different psi's and now have them at 32.
Last reply by LeonV, -
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Hi I've been refreshing a 1972 240z and want to replace some worn bushings. All of the bushings in my Z have pretty much had it. For instance, If I wiggle the front sway bar it will move about a half inch back and forth. I want to replace all of them with Urethane bushings, but I have a few questions. 1. How hard is the job? Refreshing this Z is the first car project I have ever done and I don't want to end up damaging the car. 2. Is there any special tools (read: expensive) required for doing the job? 3. Does the job require more than one person to do? 4. Is the MSA master urethane bushing kit the best kit? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Last reply by Reverend, -
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I just picked up a full suspension from a late 260z up to the hubs and the lower control arms. I want to swap out with the shortened strut (previous owner) version that I have on my 240z because it rides too low. I was wondering what differences should I look for in parts. I plan to replace all the bushings and order new springs and shocks for the 260z set up.
Last reply by John Coffey, -
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Doing a complete refresh/restore of a 73 this winter. Project is being done by a restoration shop owned by a highly skilled/experienced/knowledgeable car passionate. This Z will be my primary week end ride next summer. Everthing is going great so far and level of service and workmanship is first class. Wish to have all bushings replace by poly bushing (Black dragon #62-455). I am being told by the restore shop that unless i plan to race the car this type of mod is not worth the money spend and will actually discomfort/harsh my ride to an unpleasant point for my 47 year old body... Any help/comment appreciated.
Last reply by Chuckak, -
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As a part of my rear end rebuild I decided to go will all OEM rubber bushings in an attempt to try and get back the original ride of the car. One of the challenges that I have run into has been the installation of the OEM mustache bar bushings. There are many good posts on this site about removing the old bushings including the inner sleeve and these were extremely helpful in getting that done. However, the more challenging part of this is re-installing the OEM bushings and more specifically "flaring" the end of the bushing so that it is securely installed in the bar. At least in Austin TX I found it very difficult to find a suspension shop, drivetrain shop, or ma…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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I'm having trouble removing my spindle pins (big surprise). I have tried everything I can think of and had no luck. First I bought a puller from one of the members here. I soaked the pin area in PB every day for a few days. Then I applied the puller and a fair amount of pressure with no luck, so I heated the pin area and applied a little more pressure with the puller and hit the other end lightly with a hammer. So I applied a little more pressure with the puller and it stripped the nut and didn't budge the pin. Next I went to the machine shop and asked them to press it out. They have a 25ton press and I felt like this would do it. Well, they said they couldn't bec…
Last reply by Hardway, -
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Hi all. I'm posting this for posterities sake. I have found searching past posts particularly helpful so I wanted to share some knowledge. I ordered the grant Mahogany steering wheel from MSA for my 1976 280z and installed it this weekend. The instructions were absolute crap and I was pretty disappointed. Through a lot of trial and error I finally got the wheel on right so here are some notes to help anyone else struggling with this. The kit includes the wheel, a billeted adaptor, a Z-emblem horn button and various hardware. The instructions are much photocopied and contain one small exploded view of the assemble along written instructions. There is also a small b…
Last reply by ksechler, -
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My rear toe in using the string method was about 7/16" on the left and 1/2" on the right and the camber was way off also using a T square. All scientific measurements.. It wore my tires bald and made the rear end jumpy. I would do the shock test on the rear and it would barely push down. So I installed both sets and got it right on (as measured by the string) and the camber is spot on (measured by the T-Square). So I now can give it push on rear end shock test and it feels great! Actually gives a good bit. I have KYBs. It was warm enough this week to take it for a test drive and it drives like a totally different car. It's not jumpy when hitting bumps, it takes them nice…
Last reply by z boy mn, -
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Right after I bought my current 1970 240Z in 2008 I noticed when driving it that it would twitch left and right slightly seemingly randomly and I could not feel any of that in the steering wheel indicating to me the problem was coming from bad rubber suspension bushings. My previous 240Z, a 1971 model I had 30 years ago did not do that. I considered putting a video camera under the car aimed at the suspension to see where a bushing might be flexing but couldn't figure out good placement for the camera. Maybe a magnet mount would have worked. I had noticed the T/C rubber bushings were very cracked so I replaced them and the handling returned to normal with no twitchine…
Last reply by Mikes Z car, -
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Hey everyone, I've been working on the suspension on my 240z, and marveling at all the beautiful control arms available from places like Arizona Z and such...but I can't afford them. I was thinking that maybe I'd try to build some rear control arms as I'm taking a welding class and need a final project. Has anyone tried this before? I realize I'd need a control arm to build a template for dimensions and such, but I don't want to bite off more than I can chew. Here's a sample of what I'd like to build. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/rear-lower-control-arms-datsun-240z-260z-280z brakes Thank you in advance! Adam
Last reply by z boy mn, -
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Has anyone used non-Nissan strut mounts, suchas the KYB SM5064? Its killing me to spend $70+ on each mount! KYB SM5064 Strut Mounts
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi,
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