Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
2,208 topics in this forum
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- 4 followers
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Zedheads, Trying to wrap my mind around the next phase of my project which is a suspension/steering rebuild. Lot's of old, disintegrating bushings. Not sure where to start/how to approach, so figured I'd reach out for advice. Specifically: Both front and back ends need TLC. Does it matter which end I start with? Which is easier? ? What are the biggest "gotchas"? What's gonna make me want to cry? What else should I do while in there? (diff mounts, engine mounts, wheel bearings, etc.) What are the pros/cons of using OEM versus Poly bushings? Any product recommendations What are the best struts to use? For the front end, is it…
Last reply by JTO, -
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Hey Guys! I am in the process of reviving a 1977 280z coupe that has been sitting since the early 90s outside (must be a minor miracle cause there is minimal surface rust underneath and on the body). Anyways, the rack and pinion didn't get so lucky, looks like hell. Both boots are basically plastic and have fallen off. There is slop bust mostly on the outer tie rod ends that I can see. It needs some serious TLC and I was wondering if I should rebuild it, or if there is an option to buy a new one. I can't seem to find much information out there for buying a new 280z rack and pinion. Found tons for the 240z, but it seems like the 280z rack is a little different. I also…
Last reply by ckurtz2, -
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The recent 75 that I just parted out displayed quite conflicting “usability” or should I say “re-usability” in many components that come in twos. The car had sat outside for I’d estimate 10-15 years at least. 95000 mi on the clock. 195000? Maybe.... 1. Spindle pins. Right side came out easily with my usual simple air hammer technique. Left side, no such luck. Even after upgrading my air hammer to the best one available (ingersol-rand 123KMax) and heating with dual MAP gas torches to 600C +, not even a micro-millimeter of movement. Off to the machine shop we go. I even cleaned out the cross pin area, although it came out without a fuss. Haven’t had to seek outside hel…
Last reply by zKars, -
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Hi all I've been trying to find a source for LHD steering rack bars and pinions, I'm having a batch made here in the UK, they're about 11% quicker than the racks in US spec cars, effectively bringing them to a euro spec 'quick rack'. prices are in £240+vat. Thats for a new rack bar and pinion. if you'd like one, as there's an minimum order, i'd have to get a deposit(50%) as I don't want to end up with a garage full of rack bars! Most of the racks i've had apart have shown wear/loose spots on. Any interest on here?
Last reply by Powerglide1956, -
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Has anyone used the silvermine bolt in camber plates/lowering kit? Thinking about trying them as they are supposed to lower car 1 and1/2 inches without affecting spring travel with a stock suspension. Thanks Ken
Last reply by carcrazyken, -
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I seldom get to contribute here. Most of the time i'm looking for answers. I'm looking to rebuild the front end of 8987. I'm in the process of removing the front suspension and steering. I'm not sure how much I should replace, and I'm considering having as much as possible powder coated. Here's the first product I created to help me find the parts I need. If you have other vendors that I can search and add to this, let me know. 240z Project - Steering linkage.pdf
Last reply by z8987, -
suspension parts 1 2
by z8987- 2 followers
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Should I use these on my suspension? What's has your experience been ?
Last reply by z8987, -
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Are there any type of higher performance struts for 280Z available anymore? Need to replace an Illumina strut and they are nowhere to be found...same with KONI’s and Bilstein. KYBs are useless with my lowering springs... no suppliers have anything and “parts wanted” forum hasn’t produced any leads Please respond Classic Z contact link/directly at: dbparker54@yahoo.com. Thanks to any help!! Doug P.
Last reply by Packerz, -
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Just removed and disassembled all four struts and will be replacing the shocks and springs. I was using the MSA urethane bump stops which seem to be very firm, so I am considering switching to KONI bump stops when I reassemble as they seem to be fairly soft for the first inch of compression according to the published compression vs. force curve. In couldn't find anything searching this forum and am looking for real world feedback/experience with the KONI bump stops. Thanks, John
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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So my local Z buddy @GGRIII got his 74 260Z on the road and we drove that to Zcon. During the short shake down testing, one of the things we noticed was that the steering effort was significantly lighter in his 260 compared to my 77 280. And then (thanks to other forum members @Zup and @wal280z ), I got the pleasure to drive a 240 and another 77 280 at Zcon for a larger sample size. The steering effort was consistent, meaning that the 77 280 took way more steering effort than the earlier years. Now, some of this could be attributable to suspension mods and tire choice, but it's stark. Once you're moving, it's no big deal, but maneuvering in a parking lot at a crawl, …
Last reply by LeonV, -
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The front sway bar mounts to the frame with a thin piece of metal between the two. I'm not exactly sure what they were thinking when they put that thin piece in there, but here's what the originals look. Note that the shape changed over the years... The 240 parts is smaller than the 260-280, but here's what it looks like on the 260-280: Unfortunately, the pieces on my buddies 260 don't look so good. His plates are rusty and bent: So I had replacements laser cut out of 304 stainless. Nice new shiny parts: Hey, it's the little things, right?
Last reply by texasz, -
- 6 followers
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Hi, Did someone faced the same issue??? New KYB with right reference at their respective position front/rear. + Vogtland springs with right reference = Spring gap of 0,5 inch for the rear, and bit less for the front Carbody shop refused to install them pretending it was too dangerous... Does the strut spacer needs to be removed? Is that safe? Thanks for ideas and experience sharing Seb
Last reply by Yarb,
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