Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
2,208 topics in this forum
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- 6 replies
- 1.7k views
Hi All, I'm reaching out to the masses for help with an perplexing problem on my 77 280Z with Modern Motorsports 240sx rear disk and 280ZX CV conversion kits. Here's the issue. Recently my left rear wheel is making a clicking when I take off from a stop. This happens intermittently and does not matter whether I'm going forward or in reverse. I only hear the clicking on the initial movement of the car. Nothing is heard after I get rolling. I have checked the CV shaft bolts, lug nuts, wheel bearing play and break shoe clips but everything is perfect. The clicking SEEMS like it is near the wheel and not in the differential area. It occurs whether it's warm or cold. I don't t…
Last reply by dimitri_zee, -
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Can someone throw me a quick figure as to how much a rear toe adjustment should cost. This is referring an earlier post about one of my tires being angled inwards, and needs to be adjusted. Ball park. My car is in the shop and need to decide based on the cost. Thanks!
Last reply by moritz55, -
- 8 replies
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I have not posted before but I must say I have read alot. I am hoping to reduce my bump steer in my 72 SBC. I will be installing the Arizona Z front end components tonight. (LCA, TC Rod, Spring) My struts have a new gas spring, just a standard non adjsutable set-up. I hope to raise the car up, my front crossmember is currently 2-3/4" off level ground. Currenly my camber is FL -2.9, FR -0.1. and I am using the e-centric adjuster on LCA pivot. I cannot get any more posative camber than this. Does anyone know? If the Arizona Aluminum LCA will allow me to gain more posative camber. Remember I will have to remove the eccentric LCA bushing and will lose that adjustment. The car…
Last reply by zKars, -
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was looking at a 5 speed swap on my 74 260z and was wondering if the 79-83 zx tranny would work without cutting or is it 70-78 needs to be cut to work? i heard about useing a custom shifter is there any kits avaible if it does have to be modded? and would it be worth mabey just swaping in a z 5 speed?
Last reply by foreverz, -
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So I got most my problems fixed. Now time to fix the ride! No idea what kinda shock are on the car but seems I have stock springs! I know the rear bushings are poly and rear is a bit hard ride! with some bangs! Front seems like just pain rubber ones! So my plan is king springs, shocks not to sure what will match well with the king's. Bushings? I can still get rubber I take but is there a better rubber set? like firm rubber or just stock rubber! I don't want the firm firm of poly and I know they wear out kinda fast (4 years on my MR2). SO what do you cats think?
Last reply by aceofspades, -
- 4 replies
- 1.7k views
After a long month of on and off work, I was able to get my car off the jackstands yesterday and take it for a test drive. My front end was shot when I got the car and it was long overdue for some work. I took my time and did things by the book as far as torques specs, etc and could not have done it without this site. I've only taken a wheel off to change a flat and at times thought I had bitten off more than I could chew. I removed the front suspension, cleaned, stripped and painted everything. I replaced the ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings and poly bushings. I used the ball and socket T/C bushings from MSA. I put on Tokico Illuminas with Eibach springs.…
Last reply by MEZZZ, -
- 5 replies
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This is a pic of my differential rear crossbar mount. (Don't know the proper terminology here) Common sense would tell me it should be sandwiched between those two washers/bushings. I guess this is where my faint clunk is coming from when switching gears. It was solid as a rock after I installed my RT style front mount, but it has slowly developed a slight clunk again. Would the nuts have backed off or something? Should I just run them back up, or are the bushings worn out and compressed? Both sides look the same....
Last reply by g9m3c, -
- 1 reply
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I am confused on this and need some direction. I am installing Illumina's with Eibachs. The springs do not state what size goes where and I did some seraching in the past. I came upon a post that made me assume the shorter springs went up front. I installed one of them last night. I got on here theis a.m to search for an answer for the Illuminas adjustment and came across 2 posts talking about the longer springs up front. Do the shorter springs go front or rear? Also, on the Illuminas, the adjusting dial just spins when I went to turn it after the install, is this normal? I was thinking I would hear a click or something on each setting. Sorry for the stupid questions, I …
Last reply by Diseazd, -
- 10 replies
- 2.6k views
I would like to start by saying I have never had a wheel off a car in my life except to change a flat tire. What started as the task of replacing my front brake pads has turned into a complete front end rebuild. My rotors were shot, calipers trash. The right side pads were just "floating:, no pins or clips holding them in place. I decided at the time to replace my struts, then I figured I might as well do the bushings since I was that far. I am pulling it apart piece by piece and cleaning 32 years of filth from it. I have been through 2 bottles of degreaser, 2 rolls of paper towels, 3 wire brushes and a pack of sandpaper. I had to go out and buy a compressor, air tools…
Last reply by Maples71240Z, -
- 3 replies
- 2.1k views
FSM says: "When assembling the stabilizer connecting rod and transverse link, be sure to tighten the first nut to 8.7 to 13.7 ft-lb torque and tighten the lock nut to secure the first nut." Haynes says: "...do not tighten the mounting bolts or nuts beyond the specified torque which is 18 lb/ft for the (stabilizer) bracket bolts and 15 lb/ft for the drop link nuts." Wick Humble says: "Tighten the link until the rubber grommets bulge slightly--don't try to bottom the thread. When you estimate the links are tight enough, jam the nuts together. Then tighten the (top) locknut--you may have to hold the link with Vise-Grips pliers." I need some help here. Do any of thes…
Last reply by moritz55, -
- 1 reply
- 1.1k views
I searched and cannot find the answer to this question. I need to know the diameter of a stock '77 front sway bar. I recieved a urethane bushing kit today and it did not come with sway bar bushings. It gives part #'s for different size bars but I cannot find the info needed on what size I need. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Last reply by =Enigma=, -
- 10 replies
- 10.7k views
I recently installed the poly tension rod bushings, which proved to be an interesting install. Not hard, once I figured out the trick, but thought I would take 5 minutes to document the steps I took. Keep in mind this is only for the black dragon poly bushing kit. 1) jack up and support car with jackstands 2) remove the front wheels 3) remove the nut holding the tension rod to the chassis (17mm) 4) Remove the two nuts/bolts holding the tension rod to the front control arm (14mm) 5) Slide the tension rod out and clean the nuts, bolts and all threads (I used a wire wheel and dremel) 6) Apply generous amount of grease on the bushings, large washers and inner metal guide …
Last reply by MEZZZ,
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