Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
2,208 topics in this forum
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- 9 replies
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On the weekend one of our Z racers had a fairly new urethane coupler fail on a hill climb track. Essentially it split and half the donut between 2 of the 4 holes fell out. Has anyone else had this type of failure? The only warning was that the scrutineer reported some play in the steering prior to the event but not enough to disallow the car to compete. A possible explanation could be previously spilt brake fluid but this is unlikely. Are aluminium bilet couplers an answer and does anyone make them? Several members of the WA Z Register present on the day are considering reverting to the standard rubber coupler but I am not really keen on soggy steering.
Last reply by Curtis240Z, -
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Anyone heard or have any experience with them? I can't find any info on them to save my life, and I've checked google, MSN, yahoo, AV, all the major search engines. The only things I've come up with is a Spitfire Sway Bar and an RX7 sway bar F/S on ebay. When I bought my Z it included a box that said Turn Six Sway Bars on it, along with a new yellow rear sway bar already installed. Trying to see if these were/are any good or if it should be taken out and replaced. It seems to really help with body roll, though my only other experience driving another Z other than mine was 3-4 years ago in a 280Z, I have a 240Z...Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Last reply by Mr.Woof's72z, -
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I am working on one of my '71 240's and want to replace the steering rack with a rebuilt unit. I have searched the posts for recommended vendors and found a reference to MSA from 2007, but they appear not to have them, at least not on their web pages. I found this on the web: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_parts/steering_rack/nissan/240z.html Anyone have any input or other suggestions? Thank you in advance. -Bill-
Last reply by Palmer, -
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OK, before everyone get's uptight thinking I am going with this let me say NO I am not putting this in my 72 Z. I had always thought I would like a Jag IRS for my 73 240Z when I did the V-8 swap. So awhile back I picked up a 85 Jag XJ6 on E-bay for near nothing. Well I just got around to pulling it today. OMG I LOVE IT!!!!! It's just way to cool for me ta hide under a car. So I am going to use it in an open wheel 37 chevy pickup that I have been saving parts up for. Anyway, I did want to show it off alittle and let you all see just what its about. I do think it would be a real easy swap into a Z if you wanted.
Last reply by carguyinok, -
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I do not have this little cap on my z.. can anyone tell me what this is for and is it important? it looks like it might have been there before by markings left..
Last reply by scotts pearl, -
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Hi all! As far as torquing the FRONT transverse link (suspension arm), i realize it is supposed to be fully torqued only after the car has been set down on the ground with the weight of 2 people.(I finally found our old 240Z FSM by the way). The FSM says "tighten the transverse link mounting bolt temporarily, and finally tighten to the rated tightening torque with the vehicle loaded with the standard load(2 passengers)." Question #1- I assume temporarily tightening the mounting bolt when the wheels are still off the ground is like just a snug fit tightening? I myself just put in the bolt and put the nut on just a few turns (i might as well n…
Last reply by PATZ, -
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I was replacing my rear inner control arm bushings this past weekend. When I jacked up the car and dropped the control arms, the spring fell free from the perch and sat in the lower strut spring base (could move about a half inch up and down freely. I am not too worried about this condition, but I was wondering if the spring should sit on some rubber cushions or something. Is the upper mount rubber? I know the bottom is metal base to spring coil. Just curious. I checked the Black dragon site as they have a nice schematic of the rear suspension. I did not see anything for the springs to sit on. Just a curiosity.
Last reply by biddljj, -
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what goes bad on a shock is it the o rings cuz i can replace the o rings is there something in there like oil or something that evaporates
Last reply by JonnyRock, -
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is this normal the rear botom a arms might not be the rite word but that are the botom left and right thay are the same part just flipet over for the other side
Last reply by Arne, -
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Just thought I'd give the group a "heads up". I was browsing the Nissan Surplus OEM guy's ebay store and noticed he was selling manual Maxima steering racks complete with the outer tie rods for $100! He has 8 of them. Seems like a screaming deal, hopefully it can be used in the S30 cars, just going off my memory but it looks identical. If they are the same it's my guess they're of the same design as the later 74-78 racks. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Maxima-Steering-Gear-Linkage-OEM-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33589QQihZ014QQitemZ330210004813
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
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Hi guys! I have a question, I had new OEM (Rubber) bushings pressed into my Front suspension arm. So i finally bolted it in to the chassis (but NOT yet bolted to the balljoint or anything else). The car`s sidemembers are on jackstands, so the suspension arm is just DANGLING. I`m aware that you only do the final torqueing once everything is bolted on with 2 passengers in the car, so i just tightened the big bolt-nut going through the bushings maybe 20 lbs or so. I then pushed the arm upward and let it go down, i repeated this a few times and felt some "elastic" resistance (binding?) each time i pushed it upward. So is this "elastic" resistance normal (i assum…
Last reply by PATZ, -
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Hi guys! NO, this ISNT another question about how to remove bushings from the FRONT suspension arm (Transverse control arm). The problem is that i tried removing the big bolt that connects the suspension arm to the chassis, but then the INNER sleeve got stuck on the bolt and the rubber just got all ripped up (so i just torched the rubber off), so the INNER sleeve is now acting as a stopper of sorts preventing the bolt from going out even after giving the nut end(nut removed of course) a few whacks with a hammer! Earlier on i put a vise grip on the INNER sleeve with just enough grip (too much and i might deform the sleeve and make it even tighter) so i could …
Last reply by gotswap,
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