Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
2,208 topics in this forum
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What areas should I look at when the drivers side front tire has more negative camber than all others? I have new shocks and springs but can’t figure out why one is not the same. Any measurements that I can take to tell me if it’s the frame or the strut or some other part? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by AZDatsun, -
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Hey guys, trying to replace my rear stock struts with KYB struts. Started to tighten down the new gland nut, but I can’t get it all the way flush with the top of the tube and these instructions are literal garbage. Should this be all the way flush? Or just tight with no play?
Last reply by Muzez, -
- 2 followers
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- 595 views
Hi all! I been reading thru all the posts on steering knuckle and ball joints, but not sure they're helping me, so apologies if there's already something out there for this... I've got a 72 240, pulled apart the front suspension and now putting things back. I bought new ball joints and have the original steering knuckle. I know the new ball joint stud is a bit wider than the old one, but when I put the knuckle on, it seems to drop over the stud about the same as the old and I wouldn't have to ream it out. What am I missing or doing wrong? Appreciate the help! Bill
Last reply by Bill Scott, -
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I back out car turn steering wheel left nearly full lock. 1st gear start rolling forward while holding steering wheel I hear a clunk that seems to come from the passenger side front. At the same time as I hear the clunk I feel the steering wheel "give" a tiny amount. No other issues, steering feels tight, no noises with less that full lock or near full lock rotation of steering wheel. I have checked TC bushings/ball joints on strut/wheel bearings. All in good shape and tight. I get a tiny bit of movement in the passenger side inner tie rod, none on the driver. The rack seems tight (no slop) I have rubber rack mounts (new). the rag joint is in good shape. Strut mounts…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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I just ordered 55554-E4100, 55555-E4100 and 55541-E4100 and cut and burned out the old rear transfer link rubber bushings and I'm fixing to press in the new lower ones when I have 'em in hand. (nissanpartsdeal.com seemed to have the best price). The space between them obviously needs to match the corresponding width of the strut assembly but the FSM talks about aligning the two bushings so the spindle will pass thru as though they won't on their own. Can anybody share wisdom on this task? Do I need to have the spindle temp- installed for alignment? Not sure what's happening here? Thanks. Andy
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
- 1 follower
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- 602 views
Hello guys, First of all sorry for my english im just a 16 year old kid from germany. A few months back I was Lucky enough to buy a 73 Datsun 240z to restore for my first car. I bought it non running and pretty badly rusted, the car is now almost completly stripped and at a welding shop to get the rust dealt with. The owner of the shop was nice enough to let me use the lift so that I can work on the Suspension (you can tell just by bouncing on the car that the shocks are blown out and need new oil). Im pretty sure The 240 has got the original struts so I want to rebuild them I have Pictures of the manual that tells you how to do it and how much oi…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I just burned out my old decrepit mustache bushings and wondering if there is any new availability on a rubber product? I searched and the conversations I found were from 2017. Hoping to not use the urethane ones I bought in the beginning. . . . and if I use the poly ones do I need to grind off the lip that turns inward in the existing outer shell of the original? Thanks. . .
Last reply by grannyknot, -
- 5 followers
- 13 replies
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Just wondering if there have been any substantive conversations about doing another group buy of the Stage 1 Euro springs. I know some of the club members worked to do this the first time (much appreciated), just didn't have my '73 at that time. I would love to get these springs for the refreshment of my car. Let me know if I can help in the process. Thanks.
Last reply by Namerow, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 751 views
Looks like there is some play in my steering rack on the passenger side basically where the boot covers. Should I just replace the rack or does anyone have any better suggestions to attack first? Is there a rebuild kit for the rack? Thanks! 20200626_160313_1_1[1].mp4
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 1 follower
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- 975 views
Hey Guys/Gals, Replacing the rear sway bar link ends on my 1977 280z as the current ones are pretty rough. I noticed that there were two different sizes of fixed link ends (1" and 1.6") on Z Car Depot and I can't find any mention of the difference. Does anyone know which one is closest to stock? Car is currently stock except for MSA lowering springs (soon).
Last reply by Muzez, -
- 4 followers
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Hi all! I'm starting more involved rebuilding on my March 72 240 and currently working on the suspension. I ordered both outer tie rods from Z Car Source and they sent me these. They are different mfgs, Moog is right and not sure of other. The left has a shorter bolt, and the right seems like a larger diameter(may just be the boot). After reading, it seems like I should just be order two rights? They thread on correctly for each side, but I'm concerned about two different ones, esp the left with a shorted bolt. Any suggestions? Appreciate the help! Bill https://zcarsource.com/outer-tie-rod-end-right-240z-260z…
Last reply by ToolBoy, -
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- 5 replies
- 800 views
To help understand a bit more about the history of my S30 does anyone know when KYB inserts were baby blue? I've only ever know white or red KYB struts. Boy, were they ever wedged in. Thanks in advance. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
Last reply by jitenshakun,
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