Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
- 1.1k views
Anyone know if the tach and the speedo from a 260Z will work in a 77 280Z? Without any mods.
Last reply by rcb280z, -
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- 9 replies
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for a 2.8L SU / Mallory Unilite combo. Is this a worthwhile upgrade ? ...some say 'driveability' improves, others less enthusiastic. Have orig 260Z alternator (50A I think) will this need upgrading as well ?. Any special coil requirement ? - Thanks.
Last reply by gnosez, -
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77 280z 2 seater, I recently did a distributor upgrade, bypassing the voltage regulator and my car was running much better, however Ive noticed an as issue my car has been having a few times and it is becoming more frequent. whenever i put a strain on my battery (such as turning the lights on), my voltage drops to 0 lights turn off, nothing comes on, however, my car still turns over and starts, after which everything works fine, but its charging at 16 volts with the charge light on like the bat is disconnected, then when i stop, turn everything off, and remove the load, the bat reads 12 volts and everything seems fine, until i put a load on it again (sometimes even a tiny…
Last reply by ZCurves, -
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Okay, it took a few hours, but the first analysis is done. I built up a good library of Visio 2003 objects to make my next subject go a little easier. It was a good learning experience, too. I hope this helps someone. Hazard Lights - Brake Lights - Turn Signal Circuit Analysis
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 2 replies
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I haven't added much to my blog in the last week. I just documented my start on the effort to create enhanced drawings of the 240Z circuits. Taking Shape | Fiddling With Z Cars
Last reply by rcb280z, -
- 9 replies
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There have been some great posts on getting the dome light to work, but I haven't found one that addresses no power to the dome light. I bought new door switches and, before I reconnected the dome light harness, I checked the voltage on the positive connection on the main harness next to the side window (which should be on at all times). Nothing, no power. Assuming something is shorted or cut somewhere (fuse looks good). My gauge lights work fine, so does the map light. Is there a way to check the continuity on the positive lead from the dash to the dome light? If so, where would be a good spot up front to hook my lead up to from my meter to test continuity to my do…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 9 replies
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Made a mistake in my first post. Original and corrections shown below. Sorry for the messy post. Basically what I've found is that both of the two popular alternator conversion instructions will allow the alternator to charge, internally regulated, but they both leave loose ends for other components in the 1976 280Z. I am new to this site but thought I would share something I found out about upgrading to a 1979 ZX alternator on a 1976 280Z. Using the atlanticz.com instructions - http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html - the brake warning lamp check relay will be "hot" all the time, even with the key off, since it is spliced off of the S line …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I was driving today in my '78 280Z and all was well, but after I briefly switched on the hazards, the indicator switch no longer works. Pressing the hazard button still makes the lights blink, and the headlight dip still works so the stalk itself is still functional... Fuses seemed fine as well. I'm guessing it will be something simple and silly, but does anyone have any idea what would be causing this? Thanks
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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See car info at bottom for specs that may affect wiring. Car is currently at Whitehead Performance in Toronto, waiting for a new Mallory Ignition Sensor for the distributor. It really needs to be running while I'm working on it, and I'm only willing to make the tow once. For those interested, Whitehead Performance also has described a solution for the famous door-adjustment issue; apparently re-shimming the hinges works well. I spent a lot of time re-wiring the engine bay two summers ago. Much better now. Vintage Connections with proper tools and heatshrink used throughout. Everything cumulates into that port in the firewall under the passenger's feet…
Last reply by 383chevelle, -
- 9 replies
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Ladies and Gents This morning I was looking up a few electrical things about the Z and stubled upon this. Has anyone done this? I don't mind using the stock set up I just find that this looks a bit nicer and makes it easier to figure out if the fusible links are the problem. Any suggestions,commnets etc welcomed Thanks Jan
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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Hi all, How many condenser have the 240z ? A) Condenser near the voltage regualtor black & white wire capacity of this condenser ? what is write on the body of capacit. can you measure the capacity with tester.. :-) Condenser near the ignition coil & resistor where is connected ? capacity of this condenser ? what is write on the body of capacit. can you measure the capacity with tester.. :-) c) Condenser for GENUINE NISSAN FM RADIO Where is connected ? capacity of this condenser ? what is write on the body of capacit. can you measure the capacity with tester.. :-) D) Condenser near the point distributor no problem I know this condenser. E…
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
Dome LED Light 1 2 3
by Yellow78- 28 replies
- 3.1k views
So I'm trying to replace my dome light with LEDs. *I check the LEDs on the battery and a nice bright light. So up at dome wires I check and get 12 V. but when I hook up the LEDs to the dome wires I get a real dim light. 78 Z
Last reply by EScanlon,
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