Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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Ok so I put my dash back into my 240 and since I numbered them all of the wiores mated up really nice. The passanger side and center console areas are ran correct and hidden from view. My question is on the driver side. Does the harness run under the steering assembly or does it kind of run up and over than come out on the left side and go to the ignition switch? The latter seems to be correct especially since the buzzer wires are very short and only seem to reach if it is run this way.Any info or pictures would be greatly apreciated. It is a 1971 Series 1 240. Thanks in advance
Last reply by KAL7467, -
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I have noticed their are connections on the front harness for fog lights. A red wire that jumps from one side to the other and then into the car and a black wire that gives constant ground. I can not for the life of me find where the red wire is taped up inside the car or if it is a dead pin on a plug. I would like to use this wire to trigger my fog light relay if I can find it inside the car. any info would be apreciated. The wiring diagram in the FSM just says it is a red wire and a red and green wire...
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
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It appears that Datsun switched plugs from the projected tip BP6ES (where the "P" means "Projected Tip") to the standard non-projected tipped B6ES (no "P") in 75? But what's interesting is that the small amount of armchair research I've done seems to indicate that the farther down into the cylinder you get the spark, the better the burn, and projected tips help in that way. Anyone know WHY they switched to the standard non-projected tips? Any reason I should not use the older projected tip BP6ES plugs in my 77? Here's why I ask... I've got projected tips in there now from my previous owner and they looked perfectly normal to me (after looking at 260 plugs for so long). Th…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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So for today's surprise, i found a black wire, about 10-12 inches, both ends have wire eyes. One side was attached to the plate that secures the air flow meter, the other end was dangling. Any ideas where the other end should be attached? I cannot figure this out from the schematic in the owners manual. Is it my imagination or are the electrical schematics a little sketchy in the FSM? Dianne
Last reply by ninjazombiemaster, -
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I made 3 attempts but the contacts carboned up: 1. Caig Deoxit 2. Burnishing 3. Burnishing and Deoxit I am wondering if twisting and shifting will cause two new fresh (and presumably plated) parts of the contacts to touch?
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I'm about to upgrade alternator. I study 12si, CS144, Nissan Quest alternator swap, but I chooses easiest way to just swap with '82 280zx alternator. When I went to junkyard, I found '82 Maxima 2.4l and '82 280zx. Both have 60Amp alternator. Since Maxima's alternator cleaner, I pick that one. I learn basic from here. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm Got diode from Radioshock http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062578 I could not find how to wire 240z to get ride of voltage regulator. Based on the information, I think I got right wiring diagram. Do you know …
Last reply by tamo3, -
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I'm wondering if I can use the GM module on an '83 zx distributor?
Last reply by 5150 will, -
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My old battery charger that I use for cleaning rust off small parts finally died on me so I went out and bought a brand new one but it won't produce a charge to start the electrolysis process. There seems to be some "smart" circuit or detector in these new battery chargers that does not sense a battery and so won't release the charge. Some safety issue I guess, does anyone know of a way to defeat this detector or any other way around this problem? Thanks, Chris
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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I would say an hour and a half of searching is enough. I get all kinds of search results on 280ZX distributors and such but not what I need. So, sorry for the forum clutter but I still have no tach... The MSD6AL is installed under the dash with a custom mount to the fan housing. Red and Black power are direct to the battery. White wire is direct to the wire coming out of the distributor. Black wire is direct to the negative side of the coil. Orange wire is direct to the positive side of the coil. Red wire is to a black wire with a white stripe coming out of the harness right by the coil mount. The MSD6AL appears to be working, but of course the coil is not working. I hav…
Last reply by conedodger, -
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I'm wiring in a set of driving lights on 75 280Z. I'm using a standard 4 pole relay and SPST(lighted) switch. I'm not going to tap into any of the light circuits. I think I have this right but need a verification. Driving light + to pole # 87 Batt + with in line fuse to pole # 30 Switch ON to pole # 86 Switch OFF to batt + Ground to pole # 85 Driving lights each to ground. Thanks for any input
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I purchased my brand new 280Z on April 2, 1977. The car was stored for 12 years. I'm in the process of making it ready for the road again. My problem is that the volt meter stays on 12-13 volts when the ignition is in the locked, and or off position. The volt meter will go to ZERO (0) when the fuse to the hazard lights is removed from the fuse box. Any thoughts? Is this a relay problem? It was fine until the car overheated. The water pump and fan clutch and themostat have been replaced. Now here comes the electrical dilemma. Kindly help. Dianne
Last reply by lemonlips, -
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I have checked power & ground to gauges,w/temp works,yel/blk wire is good from gauge to sending unit,swapped out sending unit. With key on gauge sweeps to 140lbs,with engine started gauge slowly drops to below zero and stays there. Is it the gauge?? and if so,can I change only the oil press side?? Appreciate any advise on this problem,Thanks,Aloha from Honolulu
Last reply by beermanpete,
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