Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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I have switched all of my dash lights to LED with success, with everything working correctly, but the bright light symbol does not light up. I have switched the bulbs between LED and incandescent and it still does not light up. I probably need to check and see if I have a ground issue, though it is difficult to reach behind the dash. Other than a ground or power issue, could there be an issue with the turn signal switch that is impacting that particular light? Appreciate your assistance!
Last reply by Duffman, -
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After replacing a couple of batteries I decided to check for a current drain and sure enough I have a 2.5A drain on the battery without the ignition on. I tried disconnecting the shunt and no drain. I then disconnected the fusible links one at a time and no drain with either disconnected. I'm looking for next steps so I don't miss anything along the way.
Last reply by Dolfinz, -
I'm driving my 1971's (feb) 240z now for about 22 years and i can say i had never a problem with it when i ignore the new set of gaskets and oilseals i installed in 2007 because there were a lot of degrading seals.. Yesterday i wanted to go chopping and it was the first time that ... there was nothing after i tried to start?? NOTHING ?? nothing... wtf.. 🤬 Pulled the hood and a look at the multimeter (that is never far away in my case..) told me the battery was completely empty. (about 180mV!) I know what it did but now is the question do you? The battery is 3 years old and a good brand, this was not the problem.. the alternator? nope.. perfect…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Been searching the forum for answers to my problems but have been unable to find one. 73 240Z complete tear down and rebuild. Working on reinstalling the dash and electrical. Trying to check out as much as possible before moving on. I've connected a motorcycle battery to the main electrical cable in the engine bay (that normally connects to the battery cable) for testing purposes. I did a pretty good job of marking all wires and plugs to facilitate reconnecting. Also I installed a new ac/heater system that had its own wire harness. I only had to use one 12V switched wire from the original harness and the blower motor control switch. So now I have two current problems…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Does anyone have a picture(s) of how the headlight wires enter into the sugar scoop to connect to the headlight? I'm assuming the wires normally come from the engine compartment? How do the get to the area behind the headlight? I found a very basic sketch but it isn't that helpful. I am rewiring my car (1976 280z) from scratch and can do it any way I want. Looking for the cleanest install. Thanks
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I believe I have a bad ignition switch. Before I replace it I want to be sure I don't have another issue. The starter is energized and turns with the key, but the car does not start or even pop. I've ruled out any mechanical issues. I'm not measuring any voltage at the coil when power is switched on with ignition. Can anyone confirm a Z ignition switch can energize the starter, but not the coil?
Last reply by Randalla, -
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Sounds like I will be the source of amusement tonight for some of you. Decided to tackle why my dome light was not working. First made sure the switches at the doors were pushing in and out. Sprayed some deoxit in there and they freed up pretty nice and looked shiny. Next went to the dome light and measured voltage. I saw I was getting 12V between both terminals at the light bulb so I thought that was odd. I then measured voltage and then pushed in the door switches. Volts dropped to zero like I had hoped they would. Ok, so this made my brain all fuzzy why the bulb was getting 12V, but wouldn't turn on. Bought new bulb. Still didn't work. Then... 💡went off in m…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I have a new issue developing on my 1977 280z coupe. I am running a 280zx internally regulated alternator that is about 7 months old, as has been functioning properly. Anyways, the other week I got in the car and noticed my voltmeter on the dash was not working. I tracked it to a blown fuse on the passenger kickpanel, so I replaced it. I then started to notice the voltmeter would bobble slightly at idle which was odd. Today I came out to the car and noticed the voltmeter was not working again. I immidietly checked the fuse and it was fine. So I turned the key to the on position and the voltmeter would bobble a little, but it still was showing 0V. I started …
Last reply by ckurtz2, -
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I know there have been a lot of topics on this but most of them are old so I thought I would start a new one to explain what’s going on and to see if there are any new ideas/solutions. I installed a Pertronix Ignitor II with a Flamethrower II (0.6 Ohm) coil. According to Pertronix, this is a matched pair. The car (1971 240z) has and continues to great with this setup. The issue I’m having is with the tach. When I first installed this Pertronix set, I had an issue with the tach not going above 3000 rpm. The car has no issue revving well above that, but the tach would stop at 3000 rpm and sometimes would even start going backwards. I talked wit…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
While trying to determine a short inside the dashboard one of the leds i had installed failed. Can anyone tell me if this BA9S will work in my datsun 240z? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C2SHTZ6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AY0MC7HQ2EF6B&th=1 Thanks for your response.
Last reply by Patcon, -
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Hi all - Wondering if anyone knows where the fuel pump ground wire terminates in the car. The pump has two wires going into the wiring loom but the service manual says one of them terminates directly to a ground. Any idea where that hides on a 1978?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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It might be handy to have a few of these on hand in case you need a fuse and don't have the correct glass fuse on hand. It will also be handy to use with a fuse buddy to track down issues with popping fuses. https://www.thingsnotable.com/
Last reply by zKars,
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