Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
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Every Tom **** and Harry knows how to use a voltmeter (DVOM) to measure voltage. Yet there are even a lot of auto MECHANICS (techs) today who don't fully understand the concept of voltage drop. Take 20 minutes to read and understand this, ask me any questions you need to completely "get" it and you will be light-years ahead of 99% of people diagnosing auto electric problems. Voltage DROP has to do with a circuit's ability to supply adequate voltage/current UNDER LOAD. It's more a "quality of power" type issue than "just voltage." Imagine you have a fully charged battery, 12.6 volts or so, when you put your meter across the battery terminals themselves. Imagine you now …
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
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- 3 replies
- 1.2k views
'77 280 with the 7127 GM alternator (internally regulated) with aftermarket stereo and fusible link upgrade I have a few issues. The main symptom is not charging. Besides for the battery not charging the other symptom I've ever seen is with the voltmeter and interior electronics. When car is off tbe voltmeter reads 0 volts. When the car is off all interior accessories also do not work. Hazards, radio (doesn't save presets,clock, cd track,etc), horn, dome light, dash lights (with headlights on)...) I turn the car on and nothing happens unless I rev the engine above 2700rpm. At this point the interior comes alive Horn, lights, radio, etc all start to work. The battery does …
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 2 replies
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71 240z resto. I cleaned with deoxit bench tested the gauge, installed and it lasted for 20min then stuck open. I removed the gauge (thanks Escalon!) disassembled, filed the contacts, re-installed, it lasted for 20min then stuck open. I swapped in the workings from a 280z gauge, did not touch the contacts , it lasted for 20min then stuck open. It there something I am not doing? Sender is fine at 10ohms to 70ohms. Wiring is fine.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 20 replies
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I hate to ask this question since its been asked so many times before, but I tried the other solutions and they did not work. When I bought the car, both the low and high beams worked fine. The day I got it home, the left headlight had gone out and a few days later the right headlight followed. The amp meter needle bounces when I switch on the low beams (parking lights) but no longer does anything between the low and high beam settings. Literally every other light in the car works except for the headlights. I did some searching and other people who had the same problem as me either found a broken connection under the steering wheel or had a bad switch, so I cleaned the s…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 5 replies
- 1.6k views
Car: '73 240z Front turn signals work but the rears don't and the hazards work on all 4 corners. I've tested the switch and it appears to be functioning fine. I tested the bulb socket and they're getting no power when turn signals are activated. I replaced a flasher from the drivers side foot area. Also, some say the flasher is on the drivers side by your feet and other say it's under the dash. Are there multiple flashers for the turn signals? I know the turn signals go through the hazard switch but how do I remove the hazard switch to test for continuity? Does the dash need to be off? Any guidance would be appreciated.
Last reply by madkaw, -
- 5 replies
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so, i had the z up for sale, mostly cause i cant even find a dist cap on the islands, but then, i started driving this white refridgerato on wheel commomly known as a villager and i decided it was time to appreciate my z again. so, my wiring is jacked! splices everywhere, nothing works, fuses blow, hazard switch broke into 7 million peices, head lights keep finding new reasons to dim. i need a new harness...i guess. all the links i found are not supported anymore. please forgive me if i dont navigate forums well, im used to having a more local support group. thanks for any help. i promise i wont sell her!
Last reply by Quinn'Z, -
- 1 reply
- 981 views
I'm about to put on my dash cap and was going to ask if the clock problem with these cars is fixable at the clock or is it something deeper? I've got a 1/2" split above my clock and can get to the wiring pretty easy by making the split even larger (notice I didn't use "crack", giggidy) with little effort. I plan on refilling the splits with black silicone sealant before I put on the dash cover. Thanks for any advice.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 7 replies
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Just started tearing the front of the car down for resto and found that the P/O has cut off the white plastic electrical connectors for both signals and headlights and soldered them together making it impossible to remove them without cutting. I would like to re-install connectors. Does anyone know if these connectors are still available, or where I could get them? Thanks, Chris
Last reply by grannyknot, -
- 32 replies
- 14.3k views
I have picked up a couple of 97 accord and 95 civic wiper motors and am having issues with the swap. I have tried following the instructions in the stickied post, however the blue/white wire on the honda side is causing me problems. So long as I leave the blue/white disconnected I have low and high wipers. If I leave it connected to the relay on post 87A it causes a short and kills everything. If however, I run the wiper motor for a second so that it is not parked and then touch the blue/white wire to the relay it causes it to park. I could obviously run everything with the b/w disconnected, but would really like it to work properly. Has anyone else ran into this probl…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
Newbie here with with a '71 240z. This is an amazing site with tons of good information. I've been scouring the site the last few days looking for the answer to my electrical issue, but haven't found it. My car has sat in a garage for the last 16 years and currently doesn't run. I've read the "Waking the sleeping beast" post and when I get ready to turn over the engine, I'll reference it again. The car doesn't have a battery in it and I'd like to see the interior lights, so I hooked up jumper cables to the battery leads and I get nothing. All the fuses look good. I was told by a fellow z owner that it's probably some corrosion behind the fuse box. I removed it and …
Last reply by Reverend, -
- 5 replies
- 1.8k views
parking and dash lights were not working, checked the fuse box 20a park light fuse was dead. Put a new fuse in, turned on tail lights, fuse immediately got hot, turned red and shortly after burned out... Put new fuse in and unhooked all parking lights, flipped the switch to parking lights and fuse still glows, so my guess is there is an issue behind the dash, or something to do with the combo switch, any ideas or thoughts to narrow this down before pulling the dash out? Thanks
Last reply by EScanlon, -
- 9 replies
- 1.8k views
put key into ignition and turned it on. key wouldn't turn to start. it is now stuck in the on position and i can't turn it left or right. won't pull out either. the stearing wheel is not locked, it turns freely. any help greatly appreciated before i have to call a lock smith.
Last reply by jfa.series1,
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