Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 11 replies
- 4.8k views
Like many Zs, my 72 has had the antenna mast snapped off long ago. I am interested in buying one, but it would kill me to spend $200 plus on an original mast or a whole assembly. Since my motor still works I'd really like to get only the mast, however this ad for an entire setup looks very convincing. To someone who has already done this, would it be easier to buy the whole thing or find a mast that would work? How close does this ad look to an original antenna? I'd like it to look as original as possible. Thanks! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Antenna-Kit-1970-thru-1973-Datsun-240z-/170795128473?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A240Z&hash=item27c4…
Last reply by ZCurves, -
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I am amazed by this forum and how proper information helps get our Z's repaired - quickly and correctly. For instance - Wiring Diagrams -If I were to have a complaint of the FSM, it would be the lousy wiring diagram section. I suppose that they did not anticipate the future with all of us here lovingly working on our Z's. None the less, it is a weak point in the documentation which confuses a lot of people. I wanted to mention a tool that I bought a while back on eBay from Prospero's Garage. These diagrams are laminated and in full color, so if you get it greasy -just wipe it off. I used it when I was re-assembling my '78Z and I was impressed at the accuracy and how m…
Last reply by ZCurves, -
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When I bought my 1971 240Z it came with an extra wiring harness. The previous owner told me that his mechanic told him to buy it back in the mid 80's but he never got around to installing it before he put the car away. The tag on the harness says "24012E4602". It looks to be brand new and never installed. Does anyone know if this is indeed the dash harness for 1971 and does anyone know of someone that might need such a part for their restoration?
Last reply by Denny, -
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I've been looking on-line with no luck. For example, I've searched Napa's site, Advanced auto, Courtesy Nissan, etc, and also did the a general google search. Does anyone know where I could get one of these or does anyone have the part number for the condenser on the alternator so I can do better searching? This is for a 76. Thanks Gary
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I have a 1971 240Z, stock and original L24 with 1983 280ZX dizzy, E12-80 module, and MSD Blaster 2 coil, and no ballast resstor. I am installing a later model 3 wire tach. Do I need resistor inline with the wire from the coil? If so, what ohm/amperage is needed? I appreciate any and all advice!
Last reply by greenmachine, -
- 7 replies
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I'm cleaning-up the engine compartment on my 76 and on the passenger side wheel well I noticed a broken off wire and I'm not sure what it is for. According to my service manual, it looks like it branches off from the part of the wiring harness that goes to the air-cond relay (compressor relay) and the voltage regulator. The diagram list it as going "to condenser"? But it broke off something that looks like a capacitor or something mounted on the lower part of the bracket on the wheel well. (I hope that makes sense, its kind of hard to describe some of this stuff and I did take a pic but I can't seem to get the pic attached) Anyhow, can someone please tell me what that lit…
Last reply by Healeyalt, -
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My engine's out for rebuild at the moment, but I figure that with a "new" engine I may as well go to electronic ignition at the same time. My '79 N42 block came with the electronic distributor and E12-80 module intact, so I plan to use that when I install into my '71 240Z. I also found a CraneCams HI-6 ignition at a great price and I'm using this unit. I want to keep the engine bay as original as possible though and so I want to setup the control in the cabin. I don't keep much in the glove box so I was thinking that would be a great location; out of sight most of the time with easy access when necessary. My only concern is the heat output of the module when in use, espec…
Last reply by trogdor1138, -
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First of all I would like to thank everyone for walking me through the voltage issue with my 76 280 2+2. I beleive that through everything I have a non internal regulated alternator with an external voltage regulator. I think the alternator, voltage regulator and battery are all good. However, I beleive that the plug going to the voltage regualtor has an issue. Looking at the female connectors (metal pieces) they seem a little out of round but hard to realluy tell. Also they look a little discolored. Again hard to really tell. Seems to mate a little to easy. The connector is allowing the alternator to work but not the regulator to regulate. When unplugged the alt…
Last reply by bhermes, -
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- 2.3k views
Can someone tell where the blue wire goes to the coil plus or minus? Dave
Last reply by Bonzi Lon, -
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Hi, I recently acquired a stock 1978 280z, which has run pretty good until the last two weeks, when it has started to give me some electrical issues. It always starts normally and everything electrical is good on start-up. BTW, I have a brand new Optima battery (2 months old) and replaced all grounding wires on battery-engine-body with new ones while replacing battery (also did the positive one). Anyways, now with some more frequency (in the last 2 days) after driving some miles, the Alt light in the Voltmeter goes on, and I immediately loose power to all gauges (tach, voltmeter, fuel, temp), lights (if they were on) and stereo (aftermarket with small amp, all on new hig…
Last reply by superbepro, -
- 9 replies
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Hi all, After a long trouble-shooting session (literally over a year...) I've determined that the high rpm (4.5 K + ) hesitation issue I've had is ignition based (weak spark or too much resistance?). I can make the symptom disappear (or nearly so) by jumpering the ballast resister next to my coil. My '72 240Z currently has a Petronix ignition on it with the stock coil (1.5 Ohm) and ballast resister. I've gone through a long session of replacing the dizzy, fuel pump, coil, adjusting a/f ratios, and carb float levels in an attempt to resolve the high RPM hesitation. What it has finally come down to is that if I jumper the resister, I get much better performance, if I li…
Last reply by doradox, -
- 27 replies
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Hi, all. The rear defogger on my early 1972 Z, which has the older vertical grid, doesn't work. The illuminated switch lights up and I measure 12 volts at the body side connector both between connectors and + to body ground. One of the grid lines has an obvious break, but that should only affect that one line. I measured the resistance between the cleaned the hell out of (i.e., shiny now) grid side connectors and come up with 25,000 ohms, give or take 1,000. If I've done the math right, that works out to a current of .0005 amps, which wouldn't provide much in the way of heating power. My working assumption is that while the grid appears intact (mostly, see above) to…
Last reply by Coastieee240z,
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