Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
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I have a box full of dash harnesses that I picked up a while ago, hoping for some 240Z treasures. Not to be! These are free for the cost of shipping via USPS Large Flat Rate boxes. Most, but not all, are unmolested. PM me if there is something of interest. 24013-N3600 '74 2+2 24013-N3601 '74 2+2 24023-N3600 '74 2+2, CONSOLE, 3 UNITS 24013-N4202 '75, 2 UNITS 24013-N4700 '77
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
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I'm working on a combo light switch dated 0Y (Nov. 1970) and came across some design deficiencies, one of which I posted about previously: The plastic stalk is indexed to the frame with an extended tab prone to breaking as it did on this one. Fortunately, the broken tab was retained in the boot. I took a shot of the frame compared with an April '71 switch where the design flaw was corrected. With the repair completed it was ready to be reassembled: The early design also had wiring deficiencies with light gauge wires, pictured on the left with the April '71 on the right: Here are the switch internal contact bridges with the remains of a mel…
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
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Hello. I wanted to upgrade my original alternator, so I purchased a 60A alternator from a 280zx and installed it. I cut off the connector on the external voltage regulator and jumped the two pins like the following diagram that I found (yes, I have made sure, multiple times, that the diode is in the correct direction). The issue that I'm having is that when the alternator is connected, it drains the battery when the car is off. If I connect the alternator and then hook a multimeter to the battery, it drains .01V every 2-3 seconds... and eventually completely depletes the battery. If I unplug the jumped connector (or if I unplug the two ping S/L conne…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
The dashboard instrument lights, parking lights and tail lights on my 72 240z were shut down when I turned the combo switch on. I noticed that the 15 amp fuse inside the fuse holder in the Parking light harness kit went south. Replaced it with another 15 amp and keeps blowing the fuse? I really don’t use this car that much just on Sundays for an hour or two. https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/product-info/ How would you approach the repair systematically without removing the steering wheel column cover to access the female and male 6 wire connectors? Where would you check first? Looking to hearing from you shortly. Regards,
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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I'm relaxing at home when I got a call from a number I didn't recognize. Since the caller left a voicemail, I played it. He told me he got my number from a friend. He has a 78 that he drove to the gas station, and it wouldn't "catch". He said another friend worked on the car, but that friend wasn't available. I called him back and found out that the engine would turn but wouldn't fire. Knowing that the friend who worked on the car is a very good Z wrench, I knew I had to run through possible esoteric solutions. "Beat on the ECU." "What?" "Hit the ECU with the side of your fist. Just bang on it a couple of times. Then try to start your car." "Wher…
Last reply by 26th-Z, -
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I've been poking around with the ignition electronics on and off and there seems to be some interest in getting into some of the details of how things work. So here's a place to start. Here's a pic of the ignition module signals. The input signal from the VR distributor is in blue, and the output signal that drives the coil is in yellow. Note that when the yellow output signal is low, the coil is charging (dwell), and when that output signal goes high, the coil would fire a spark. Spinning the distributor (by hand) the signals look like this: First think to note is that the ignition module (1977 style) fires the coil on the negative-to-positive (N-P) tra…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I have a V8 swapped '77 z & I can't determine what wires go to the oil & fuel guages. I have the wiring diagram but the wires keep going through plugs that don't show which wires come out the other side. I've tried grounding all the spare wires under the hood, but none of them move the oil guage. Ditto with the wires in back for the fuel guage - I have one square plug (three wires), one round plug (also three wires IIRC), & two wires that have male & female round (pin) ends. Anyone with a '77 that can check these for me? Thanks heaps in advance, ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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I’ve seen a ton of people switch to LEDs for their instruments, and I’ve seen a bunch of people say not to because it can be too bright. I’m also saw someone worked out a way to make a dimmer that works for LEDs. Well, that may not be necessary. In trying to locate that how-to thread I stumbled upon three dimmers for LED instrument lights: Autometer https://www.autometer.com/led-lighting-dimmer.html Classic Instruments https://shop.classicinstruments.com/leddim New Vintage USA https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/led-lighting-dimmer/ I’m going to dig into reviews on these and see if any of them stands out. I’m guessing there are others…
Last reply by billgtp, -
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For some reason in the past, I came across this part number for a Sentra Intermittent Wiper Relay part number: 28510-1M200 It appears as though it might still be available. This is the wiring diagram from the EL section of the Sentra FSM: Note that it is 7 wires. Edit: Oops, I finally noticed that there is no pin #4. That fits an observation that I made after I posted this. I'll have to see if this is a fatal flaw in my effort. Here is pin out on the 73 Intermittent Relay: It seems pretty close to the same. I just have to trace out the wires better for the 73.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I have a 73 240Z restoration project underway. I'm currently trying to install a dash overlay. To do so I have to remove the hazard warning switch knob. It's one of the green pull switches. This may sound stupid, but I can't figure out how to get the knob off. I tried pulling, unscrewing, looking for a set screw, looking for a release button on the back. Nothing. It can't come out the back with the knob on. I'm afraid it I pull any harder I'll break it. Any suggestions?
Last reply by z3beemer, -
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Hey Guys, Back again... On the last gauge to fix on the car. Anyways, the temperature gauge does not work on my 1977 california spec 280z (Oil pressure does). It did work when I originally got it, but one day I started the car and it just did not work (2 years ago). Ok so, I grounded out the bullet connector on the t-stat housing and the gauge did not change. So that ruled out the sending unit. I got right to it and pulled everything needed to get to the gauge and pulled the gauge. Simple and easy. Ok so I first wanted to see if the whole gauge was getting power., and it was. I found that the bottom left pin in the photo was supplying 12V. Sweet. From …
Last reply by ckurtz2, -
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Hi All,= What is the procedure for bench testing horns out of the car? It's a '72 240Z. I bought 2 supposedly working, rebuilt horns from ebay and want to test them prior to installing. I tested both horns individually by connecting their spade connectors to 12.7 volts and grounding the mounting brackets. No sound on either. The connections are all very clean (by me) and I I measure 12.7 volts passing between the spade connectors and the grounds. What am I missing? Thanks!
Last reply by Jughead,
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Jeff Berk
