Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
-
- 8 replies
- 1.7k views
76 280 power will just shutdown randomly. Anything time, any speed. I have to turn it over 5 or 10 times before it fires up. Once it does it runs great until the next time. Could be 10 mi or 100. Temperature not an issue. No exhaust or fuel issues.
Last reply by sblake01, -
-
- 0 replies
- 969 views
Hey I just received this in the mail: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330606331460 The price was right and it looks brand new. It looks like the seller has more for sale. Free shipping and it looks brand new. I am thinking of buying another for a spare. I have not put it in my car yet but I am pretty sure it will plug in no problem. Just thought I would share.
Last reply by grantf, -
- 2 replies
- 1.3k views
As I understand it, a gear reduction starter helps primarily on higher compression engines. Am I correct? If so, is there any advantage to using one when the existing starter (now 41 years old) is functioning properly? Thanks.
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
- 6 replies
- 4k views
Hi all- Just dropped in a 280zx alternator in my 77 280z. Started it up and it seems to run great, except the VOLTMETER and WINDSHIELD WIPERS do not work. The voltmeter needle is just dead, and the charge light is on, very faintly. Any ideas where i should start trouble shooting? thanx, -g
Last reply by petrol, -
- 1 reply
- 1.2k views
Working on a '72 and removed the center console & heater controls and found this thingon the right not hooked up. It kinda looks like that plug on the left plugs into it but it doesnt quite reach.
Last reply by bluezcrazy, -
- 9 replies
- 1.9k views
I've searched, called parts stores, and even Nissan... No one can get it anymore :/ I'm wondering if anyone knows anyone selling one or where I may be able to find a new one? I went to a local junkyard and picked 2. Both off 280's and neither of them seem to work. Any help would be appreciated. Jake 559-270-7750 Shaw.Jacob.js@Gmail.com
Last reply by cozye, -
- 3 replies
- 1.5k views
Hello guys, This past weekend, among other things, I replaced my stock 76 distributor and coil with one from an 81 ZX. The Z runs a bit better but the tach refuses to work under 1500 RPM. For what I remember don't I have to add a resistor or something to make the tach work properly? Thanks greatly Jan
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 1 reply
- 2.6k views
This is probably a DUMB question but.... I'm replacing all my gauges with Speedhut gauges to include their oil pressure and coolant temp units. I see from the FSM that both of the stock sending units go to the EFI control unit. Also, the new units require the use of their sending units. So... 1. Will the elimination of the stock sending units for oil and temp cause a problem with the fuel EFI control? 2. If I use Speedhut's sending units, which must be of different current and/r resistance than stock, be OK? 3. Do I need to keep the stock senders in place and ADD the new ones just for the gauges? If yes, does anyone have any recommendations on the best way to do so? Sorry…
Last reply by Fire604, -
- 9 replies
- 2.2k views
If anyone knows what this relay/device is here in my picture next to the voltage reg it would be great. I can only guess that the 7 pin round plug in the second photo connects to it as its the only one in the area even though half the wires are missing and the colours dont match. The real fun part for me is the starter wire from the ignition switch is the black/yellow that runs to the plug and never comes out again so I'm stumped as to how the old motor used to start. Probably a very obvious answer out there... NOTE: RHD car so wire colours may differ
Last reply by drunkenmaster, -
- 1 reply
- 1.6k views
First off the car is a 73. I've done the alternator upgrade ( and the fuel pump relay problem) and headlight wiring harness. Everything worked great (about 6 month now) untill a week ago, dead battery and blown alternator and the diode on the upgrade plug was blow or melted. I bought some new upgrade plugs, and replaced the alternator, charged the battery. The issue I found was the white/red wire coming off the voltage reg plug was burned up. I cut and jumped it down stream in the harness to some clean wire in the harness. Seems to be ok for now. Questions, the amp gauge moves around like a tach anything from the middle to a 50+ reading, is this normal ? If it's a 60 amp …
Last reply by beermanpete, -
- 8 replies
- 1.7k views
are they changable with the 77? or are do they need that year alone?
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 3 replies
- 1.4k views
Hi guys and girls I've been trying to figure out my running rich problem. I went down to the ecu with the efi bible and fsm and tested things and everything looks good besides a couple I have questions about. The afm resistance #1 test calls for about 180 ohms. I get 184. Resistance #3 calls for 100 an I get around there. Resistance #2 test calls for small resistance and continuity. I get 700 the first time I did it after a drive and the car was still warm. Thinking back that 700 is pretty high I went back to test it again a couple days later when the car has been sitting for a day and now I get around 500. Is that to High of a resistance since the test calls for a SMALL…
Last reply by 240260280z,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
Patcon
