Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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I just had to share this product that I came across when planning my battery cables. I wanted to run as stock of a battery size as i could so I could use the original battery bracket and cover for my 71(just because I had one). Anyway, off the shelf battery cables have ends that hit the plastic battery cover and are usually pretty cheaply made. So, I went on a search for battery cable ends, but then realized that a crimper would then bee needed even if I found the right ones. Then i stumbled onto the Remy battery site and found these fusion battery terminal ends-what a great idea. They had 90 degree terminal ends and I could make the cables at home easily. http://www.r…
Last reply by doradox, -
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- 3 replies
- 1.6k views
40 year old Ziebart is a @#$% Wash with lacquer thinner, wipe out paint tray, redo.... many times. Finally.... rusty metal detail of plastic threaded insert. It has a clear rubber boot to keep the water out. boot in place
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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The right turn indicator on the Jan 71 240z had allowed water to enter and the metal reflector was rotted with the chrome peeling off. Someone lost the 3mm screws over the years and had used wood screws. The amber plastic holes were toast. I managed to source a replacement from a friend however two of the 3mm screws had rotted away. This donor light did have an OK reflector and ok amber plastic however removing the 3mm screw remnants was like surgery. After removing what I could, I used a soldering iron to shape the amber plastic. Here are the two offending screws. Here is the donor with the plastic melted away to prevent damaging the amber part with the embedded …
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 3 replies
- 7.4k views
were it the ecu located .
Last reply by sqweekykneecap, -
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- 1.7k views
I removed all of the parts (except the spring clips that hold the plastic pins), soapy hot water, bathroom sink, artists paint brush (to reach in) and some swishing. 3M plastic polish on the outside and a nice refresh results.
Last reply by Unkle, -
- 7 replies
- 2.8k views
The switch functions by simply grounding the circuit(s) when the door opens. In USA cars, the driver side switch has two connections for grounding two circuits: 1. Dome lamp 2. Door-open-with-keys-in buzzer The passenger side switch has only one connection for grounding the dome light. Note: there are wires in the USA harness that are tucked away and not used that are for a "step light" ( a light in the door when it is open). Looks like a very creative brake line fitting adaptation to me Here are the switches after a refresh with an abrasive. This is the normally "open" state for the driver side switch when the door is closed and presses on it. This…
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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Here is the wire bundle coming out of the centre of the dash on a 1971 240z: Here is one part of the bundle: Q, what do the blue, white and red-with-blk-stripe connect to? Here is the other part of the bundle: Q, what do the blue fused leads and the connector with the blue, white and white-with-blk-stripe connect to?
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 2 replies
- 1.9k views
In the photo below (1971 240z Jan.), there are two separate leads with barrel connectors coming from each side of the fuse box. What do they connect to?
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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71 240z resto had bare corroded wires where the fuel sender connectors were supposed to be. Here is the quick and dirty solution: Step 1: Pillage the 280z 2+2 wiring harness that I bought from Jim Karst many moons ago (THANKS JIM) Step 2: Prepare to solder. Here are the pillaged parts: - black wire with bullet connector - yellow wire with bullet connector - rubber boots for the solder tails Step 3: Solder the leads: note: - the yellow lead carries the voltage and attaches to the pin with the elevated stand off (insulator) - the black lead is the return and is at ground potential. (not insulated and connected to the metal cover) …
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 1 reply
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I was dealing with corrosion in the 40 year old harness at the fuel sender connector (lack thereof). When I removed insulation to expose copper, it was clear that moisture had entered the harness and seeped in. Rather than replace a large piece, I simply used steel wool to remove the corroded outer layer to expose copper that was suitable for soldering. Fortunatley the copper was not brittle and had a reasonably flexible core. Wires on left are the 240z harness leads to the fuel sender. The wires on the right and scavanged wires with connectors that I wish to connect to the harness. Note the different colours of the exposed copper. Here are the same wires after a li…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 973 views
Hey I was wondering if having no continuity on the air regulator would be the reason why no power is going to the fuel pump which comes afterwards, also would that affect the injectors also? because they dont fire when I use an external power source on it. the injectors have power, the fuel pump works, the relay clicks, but no continuity on air regulator.
Last reply by Brae, -
- 7 replies
- 4.6k views
hello, i searched online and couldn't find anything that could answer my question... i have a 73 240z and recently placed a front air dam off a 74 260z, so now my front parking lights won't fit... im having trouble trying to find 260z front parking lights (the ones that are located by the grill) so i went to my local autoparts store and got some rectangular shaped amber lights... the only problem is those new amber lights i got only have 2 wires, and original has 3 wires... does anyone know how to re-wire my new bulbs so they're on when my headlights are on and also blink when i signal... thank you
Last reply by Arne,
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olympianZ
