Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
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Somewhat as a follow-up to my earlier thread: I purchased an SMP S847 socket. I tested it out in my 240Z, and it seems to fit just fine.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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A friend installed a Pertronix Ignitor I into his 240Z, and he contacted me for help since he could cruise fine at low RPM, but whenever he tried to get on the gas, it would stumble and cough. He thought it might be a coil impedance issue so he tried various coils but kept having the same issue (and sometimes even worse performance). Since he has been wrenching on Z cars since the mid 80s, I figured he had gone down the wrong rabbit hole at some point. I loaded up the rescue wagon and headed over to his place. The first thing I did was connect an oscilloscope to see if I could pick up an obvious miss. The scope left me with the impression that something wasn't happen…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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So I have a pair of euro taillights I want to install in Lily. I know they require some rewiring. I searched the forum but couldn't find a relavent thread. Maybe the librarian can or someone else can chime in on whats required
Last reply by Patcon, -
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In my never ending quest to find parts that no one seems to be looking for, I finally found what seems to be a good replacement for the single filament (1156 style) bulb sockets for the tail lights and reverse lights. The Dorman 84808 fits snugly in the tail light housing. You can find them on Amazon and Rockauto. I'm going to get a Dorman S847 to see if it's a suitable replacement for the 1157 sockets.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Many moons ago I promised to describe how the gauges work... So in order to understand how the gauge system works, I think it would be a little easier to first understand how they DON'T work. I think everyone already has a good handle on this simple system, but it's an important place to start. Here's a pic of a simple (uncompensated) gauge design. Wrap a heating coil around a bimetallic strip and mechanically attach that strip to the linkage of a gauge needle. Flow current through that heating coil and to a sender unit who's resistance reflects the level of whatever you're trying to measure (temp, oil, fuel, whatever). As the resistance of the sender unit …
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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When removing the antenna cable from the back of the radio, the male plug broke. The plug appears to have a capacitor with the natation “180PF +-10% 50V”. What purpose does this capacitor serve? Thanks, Keith
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I have a 280z that sat for 5 years. I got the car up and running a few weeks ago. I failed an emissions test (am planning on getting classic car insurance which by passes emission test requirements in AZ) (idk if that has anything to do with my issue but figured I’d mention it.) the car was running fine and I didn’t notice any issue. I had to turn the key a few times to get the car to start but it stayed running. I drove it around, got an oil change at big o tires. When it came back and after a few new body parts and paint (which I had to remove my tail lights for, but reinstalled from what I can tell correctly) the car now won’t stay on. As I drive the car around th…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Headlight front marker wiring rubber plug this one plugs into the body where the wires go into the engine bay. Is there a reproduction available for these?
Last reply by Patcon, -
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Went to install the PerTronix points replacement kit last night, and I'm a little concerned. I removed the vacuum pot to check the range of motion on the plate, and I'm worried the igniter wires will bind when the timing is advanced. See below. Retarded (OK): Advanced (not OK): Should I be concerned, or am I just being paranoid? Any suggestions on how to reduce/eliminate the interference? Feedback from others who've performed this install appreciated. Thanks!
Last reply by BoldUlysses, -
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Greetings I’m scratching my head last couple of weeks and couldn’t figure it out. I have the wire schematic and trace all the wires pertaining the signal fuse keeps blowing up. I’ve clean the multi switch at the steering wheel, 3 times. Unplugged/plugged back connectors at the passenger side and near the fuse box couple of time already. The fuse seem to last for couple of days the blow up again. the hazard switch and light work. I just couldn’t figure where the short wire is that cause the signal fuse blowing off any suggesting where else to look? Thanks
Last reply by 240zadmire, -
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Hi all, The original clock is dead. I found instructions on this forum how to rebuild the clock. I happened to have 2 capacitors but don't have the smallest one. I believe 0.22uf. However, the instruction seem to suggest to replace the transistor as well. I don't have it yet. long story short, I able to get it run/spring when put face down. But orient position correctly, seem like it is too weak to oscillate. Learn that the Quartz version is more reliable than this one. Went ahead and get one for $5 knowing it is not working. Search online many hours and doesn't seem like anyone rebuilt it accept send it in to a shop or zclocks. Wonder why!!!! The…
Last reply by zclocks, -
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Hi, anyone tried this? mine doesnt work and I suspect old mechanical parts. Anyone tried quartz conversion?
Last reply by MH77280Z,
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