Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
- 3.9k views
I have a 1974 late model 260z. I am getting no power to the coil in any ignition position. I have replaced the ignition switch and lock. Needed a new lock anyway. I tested for continunity at the switch connector with the switch in the different positions Seems I have continunity. I checked the coil with a multi meter with the negative end grounded to the strut tower bolts and the positive on the coil positive, no power then I did the same for the negative side, no power. I did the same with the coil resistor at all connections...same thing no power there either. Where could I be losing power from the ignition switch to the coil.
Last reply by zdude1967, -
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- 9 replies
- 5.1k views
I am trying to determine if my ignition switch is bad. Some history on the issue: I have a starter button which connects directly to the starter. The starter will engage without the key by pressing the button. It will however not start if the ignition switch is not in the on position. I believe this is because there is no electrical flow or spark. Currently I have no electric flow when the key is in the arse or ON position, ie no wipers, blower etc. Also no spark. I used a multi meter and tested all 5 wire connectors that hook to the ignition switch, I have power in one only it is the white /red wire. Is this correct or am I susposed to have power in all 5 wires. I have a…
Last reply by jwtaylor, -
- 7 replies
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I'm replacing the lens covers on the front large blinker lights of my 71 Z. Several of the screws have been broken trying to get them out. Anyone know where I might pick up a dozen or so of these screws? Thanks for your help. Guy
Last reply by robftw, -
- 0 replies
- 1.6k views
Im trying to find remanufactured starter here (Finland) but i need the original part number and knowledge about the power. They said to me (in auto part shop) that there is 0.8kw and 1kw starters. Help?
Last reply by Reverend, -
- 1 reply
- 1.5k views
my 78 is being restored while im away to iraq and my father is haveing a problem with the coil pick ups burning out and it has only a MSD package upgrade to it. im not sure what needs to be done if any thing to prevent this problem.
Last reply by Vipergts, -
- 22 replies
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'73, stock distributor, Pertronix Igniter, MSD 6A. Symptoms started one day last week after winding out 2nd gear. My tach jumped from around 4K up to around 6K, then back down to around 4K. After that, the engine was running roughly, not revving easily, and backfiring under anything more than light load. I thought maybe a plug was fouled because it definitely felt like it was down a cylinder. Here's what I've done: 1) Changed the plugs 2) Checked to make sure the distributor didn't move. 3) checked the cam timing, thinking it was timing chain slip or the tensioner broke. It was dead on. 4) Checked valve clearance, since it'd been about 2 years. No difference. 5) At this …
Last reply by BadDog, -
- 9 replies
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Hi! Hope you can help me source the issue. It's a '77 280Z with a new(ish) alternator. Bypassing the voltage regulator it puts out over 15V. The battery (also newish) and measures about 12.4V with engine off. At idle, V = about 13.2 to 13.4V and will charge up to 14.5V at high rpm. BUT, turn on the headlights, and V = 12.8. I tightened the alternator belt, clened the fusable link connectors, and other accesible connectors. I have Zondabrain headlight wiring harness upgrade and the H4 headlights from MSA. Is it possible the relay in the headlight harness is faulty?
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 1 reply
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I have some strange electrical issues and think it may be the ignation switch. Is there a way I can bypass the switch to check if the electric flows to the accessories such as blower motor, wipers, etc. Is there a way to make this happen. Thanks
Last reply by EScanlon, -
auto electric 101 1 2
by 260 z- 15 replies
- 3.4k views
I am refreshing my 260z and the electrical keeps kicking my butt. I was blaming everything on the relays but weak grounds repeatably raises their ugly heads. Most of the wiring connections at the lights, gauges, and the dash are open so the car can go the the paint shop next. Could that be why I am not getting good grounds at some of the grounding point of the harness???? Could that also cause my wiper motor not to work from the combination switch??? Why do I get 10.4 volts on the harness side at the wiper motor connection when the battery is putting out 12.3 volts??? With the key on, and the combination switch at the first position I read: red lead LR wire LW and B re…
Last reply by z74z90, -
- 6 replies
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Car is a 1974 260z wire is on passenger side coming out the harness??? Photos should help someone who knows what they are doing....that person is not me!!!! Who knows where it goes Thanks Glenn
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 5 replies
- 3k views
I have a 1974 260z with a external starter button.Usually you turn the key to the on position and hit the button and it starts. If the key is not in the on position the car will turn over but not start. Seems the key being on ignites the spark and allows the electric to flow to the components. I just put the engine back in and when I put the key to start usually the electrical components become live. Usually at this time the defroster light come on if the defrost is on as well as the choke light or wipers if they are switched on. Now nothing no spark either. Anybody have any ideas as my electrical knowledge is zero.This starter button arrangement was in the car when I bou…
Last reply by zdude1967, -
- 12 replies
- 3.4k views
recently having problem starting my zed. turn key and the starter will whizz. i have to try a few times for starter to turn and start car. i had the same trouble before with the wife's 68 mustang. after replacing a selinoid on her car i found out it was a dead cell in the battery. replaced battery and problem fixed. i'm thinking, ok i need a new battery for the zed. i have an optima red top that's 7 years old. had it checked and it hold 400 amps which is half of it's output. does this mean i need to replace it, or should i try replacing the selinoid first? is 7 years on an optima a reasonable life span? ( only used 6 months a year) ps- the po put in a new starter just be…
Last reply by zhead240,
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