Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 11 replies
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Hi Folks! This morning the Z died on the morning commute.... Suddenly lost electricity and not able to start the car. Towed to a nearby rescue station. Battery - recently replaced Alternator - recently replaced What they found: Output voltage at the alternator is 13.5V, but power not reaching the battery. So they replaced the voltage regulator. Still, only 12.7V measured at the battery. They suspect that I have a faulty alternator...after charging me to replace the voltage regulator. Oh, and the really strange thing.... the V meter in the dash is reading ~14V. Dahhh, I hate electrical problems.. What do you think?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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So basically a couple weeks back my car started to make a terrible screeching noise. So i bought a new water pump and installed that and it fixed the problem. A couple days later i had accidentally left the lights on and it had drianed the battery. I got a jump and it was running fine but then I went out and while i was crusing down hill my radio started tuning off and on and it eventually died. I jumped it in the morning and drove it home but i realized the amps were at negative when i drove with the lights on so i figured the altinator wasnt charging because i hadn't tightend the V belt enough when i installed the new water pump. So 2 days later i tightened the V belt a…
Last reply by ajmcforester, -
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So after about two years I thought my Z would be ready to roll today. I charged the battery overnight, made sure it took a charge and put it back in the car. I connected the positive cable first, but when I connected the negative cable sparks started flying. I heard a low kind of humming (or frying) coming from the starter/solenoid. I disconnected the negative cable right away. So what do i do know? Ive never had sparks like that before and haven't done anything to the electrical. What could it be? I know JACK about electrical, any help would be appreciated.
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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I just purchased a ZX distributor with E12-80 module off ebay (thanks for the link geezer!) and I got a great deal on it. It's missing a few parts though so I need some help. Thanks to Walter Moore's S130 distributor chart, I determined that I bought a '81 NA unit with an E12-80 module. Here is a picture showing what's missing. The rubber grommet that holds the wires for the module is missing as is the aluminum sleeve at the bottom that surrounds the shaft. I'm not talking about the mount, I'm talking about the sleeve that surrounds the shaft. I've seen some S130 dizzies with a plastic sleeve and some with the aluminum sleeve, but I haven't seen one with no slee…
Last reply by geezer, -
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I want to replace all my old fuses in my 1978 Z car to eliminate any potential problems caused with the old fuses. However, I was told that SFE fuses are the correct ones to get for it. However, I checked all kinds of stores and most of them only have ACG fuses, which are longer than the fuses in my fuse box. And also places like Napa and Farm and Fleet only have like 3A, 5A, 7A, 9A, 14A SFE fuses. But they didnt have and dont think the 10A or 15A SFE fuses are even made. What gives???????????? what kind of fuses do I need for my Z car? Thanks
Last reply by argniest, -
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As I was driving home this evening, my brake warning light suddenly came on and at the same time the red (charging?) light on my voltmeter came on. The voltmeter reading also had dropped to around 12v, which is considerably lower than its normal level. The car still ran fine, no brake or other mechanical issues. The lights may have been a little dimmer but I can't say for sure. If it makes any difference, this happened as I was slowing to a stop. When I got home, I checked the fuses - all look good. Didn't see any loose or bad connections/wires under the hood. The fusible links also seem to be ok. I also tried restarting the car - no problem but the symptoms still persi…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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ok I bought a 76 volt/fuel gauge for my 71 and want to do the swap when I have the interior gutted but cant seem to find a writeup on the wiring. I found one for a 260 which I assume is similar but may have different wire colors. anyone who has done this swap who can chime in or has a link to a writeup would be great.also I have a ZX alternator with the adapter plug if it matters...thanks in advance
Last reply by KAL7467, -
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I'm really desperate can anyone help. My 1975 Datsun 280Z straight shift cuts off after being driven and gotten warm. It gets fuel but no fire. I was told it is the ignition control module some say an ignition ignitor and some say coil. Can anyone help and if this is my problem, best location for replacement part. I drove my z to see a friend in the hospital about 45 miles and after visit driving back and having to stop for intersection vehicle cut off and would not start. After sitting for quite a spell it will crank again.
Last reply by 78zcar_blue, -
- 19 replies
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I don't have turn signals, never had since I got the car. The headlights, parking lights, reverse and brake lights work. The hazard lights work on the left side only with the dash light illuminating the left side turn indicator. From the checks I did so far I think I have a short. I have the FSM and started continuity checks on the T/S combo, then from the T/S connector to dash connector C3 and flasher unit and then flasher unit to dash connector C2. I have found that I have continuity between Green/Red stripe (left turn) and Green/Black (right turn) of the male pins of the T/S combo connector. Connectors C3 and C2 were disconnected for the continuity checks. The…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
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- 108 replies
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With any luck, We can all get together on this forum and figure out the weak dash light-hot fuse problems we all seem to be dealing with. I wrote in my "headlight relay upgrade harness's for sale" forum, that I upgraded all my EXTERNAL lights to L.E.D.'s. These lights use almost 1/10 of the power of conventional light bulbs. Have a running life of about 100,000 hours which rounds out to about 10 years of constantly being on, which could also equate to about the lifetime of the owner with general usage. So.. if your lights are on for (2) hours a day, every single day of the year, they would still last for over 169 years. Which is good arguement for the price of the L.E.…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
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I am finally getting around to installing a stereo in my '78 280Z and have a small problem. The car still had the original stereo plug and none of the wiring had been touched, so at least I am not dealing with PO nonsense. The problem I have is that I cannot find a switched power lead. The original stereo plug has six pins. They are +12V always on, Ground, Illumination, Dimmer, and LH speaker + and -. There are also two RH speaker wires that are not part of the harness. I have checked every wire and I used the FSM wiring diagram to trace them all back, but nothing comes on with the key in "ACC". I can't believe that the original radio didn't have a switched power w…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 5 replies
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Hi, I have a 1973 240z where the wiper fuse keeps blowing. It used to work fine before I put a higher output alternator in. The original power wire is hooked up to the alternator terminal. I also have a 6 gauge wire going from this alternator terminal to a bus bar (terminal where all accessories get power) and from the bus bar to the battery. Where should I check for shorts? Did my wiring job mess something up? Thanks for any help.
Last reply by TomoHawk,
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