Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 10 replies
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traced problem as far as ignition switch. Jumpered 12v to ignition switch, the results were - relays working, starter motor running ok, fuseable link ok, thermo switch wire attached ok. Ignition switch will not turn off with it jumpered to 12v. checking continuity to ground from igniton today and ignition relay.There must be a fuse out from the ignition switch to its 12v source? Where is the fuse? The ignition relay may be stuck open? Should the (-) side of the coil be grounded? The coil wiring checks out ok from the ignition module, all connections are good. Battery good Battery ground good (new) Battery hot wire good. Ground wire from distributor good. Ignition module …
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 10 replies
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ok I am installing a pertronics kit to replace the points in the distributor along with a flamethrower coil(the 3.0 ohm one) ...now in posts I have read some people say they leave the ballast resistor in place and others say it is best to take it out. I am aware the system may mess with my tach a bit but how accurate is a 40 year old tach anyway ...but what is the real deal on the resistor? In case it matters I replaced my alternator with a 60amp one that was supposed to go in a 280zx and made my own little plug with diode to go on the voltage regulator plug...other than that I have not changed anything else in my electrical system...any input would be greatly apreciated …
Last reply by Inf, -
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I have plugged Vintage Connections in other threads. I just to have a thread so people might find it in a search. Del is a stand-up guy, and he has great products for anybody who is considering doing any electrical work on his/her classic Z. I went whole-hog a few months back and bought a bunch of connectors and lugs from Del. Tonight, I was driving my 260Z home from work and realized that I didn't have any running lights. OOPS! I can't say I hadn't been warned earlier in the day when I picked up the car from Eddie Radatz. (Yes, that was another shameless plug.) When I made it home, I took apart the steering column and replaced the 9 pin plug on the wiring harness. It's s…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 27 replies
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I bought a car that has painted light covers on the front and PAII halogens mounted on the front bumper. pulled the painted light covers and found just the housing. No wires or connectors or anything....I did find some wires that were cut and capped, just not sure if they were for the headlights (see pic). Since there is numerous posts about light conversions and wire harness upgrades I am looking for the best route to get upgraded. 74 260Z early 12/73
Last reply by ajmcforester, -
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http://www.ngk.com/results_cross.asp?pid=BPR6ES&x=55&y=10 which ones so i order? I know the bottom one is single blister packs but the other two seem the same ...any opinions?
Last reply by d240zx2, -
- 6 replies
- 1.6k views
Gang, I was cruising along the other night after getting my Z (1971 240z 8/71 build date) put back together. I had just installed Speedhut gauges (volt, oil press, water temp and a remote mounted fuel gauge) and was really digging them as I drove through the night. Anyway, come up to a stoplight (as is the custom in Japan), I turned off my headlights but left my marker lights on. When I turned the lights off, I noticed the temp gauge needle dropped almost 10*. Hmmm. So light turns green, lights go back on and the needle jumps back up 10*. I looked over at the voltmeter and it read a rock solid 14V. Just for reference, I'm running a relay headlight harness kit the …
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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Happy Thanksgiving to everyone! I'd like to ask your thoughts on the best way to lubricate the mast of a stock S30 power antenna to keep it functioning smoothly and eliminate unnecessary wear on the electric motor. I've considered white lithium grease but it seems that it would leave a noticeable residue when the mast is retracted and extended. I've also considered WD-40 but thought I'd ask what you use and why. Thanks!
Last reply by 5thhorsemann, -
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Fellows I have a question, I have painted the 1978 280z and about to start putting it back together, I also changed the face gauges and I just noticed that when I connect the battery the volt gauge read the voltage of the battery, even when the car is turned off is this normal for the volt gauge to always read voltage? I didn't noticed this before I took the voltage gauge because it wasn't working but once that I put in the new indiglo face I fixed it,simple fix, the needle was hitting and wasn't allowing it to move, Any way i'm just concern about it reading voltage even when the ignition is turned off. Thanks for your help.
Last reply by dcruz, -
- 4 replies
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saw his kit and looks like it is exactly what I have in mind. it seems to replace the points dist with a electric one and also replaces the coil with a higher powered aftermarket one. When searching around the forum I see many have gone this route...and seem to be pleased but some say they have problems with their tach and some don't... 1.why is that? 2.are their any other parts recommended to do this swap(I was thinking of upgrading the stock wiring going to the coil with higher gauge wire) should I do new plugs and wires at the same time? any recommendations at all would be great so I can do it all at once, on a side note what alternator upgrade are people using for t…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Hello all I'm in need of someone's assistance with an electrical...issue of sorts. This weekend I "fixed" the clock on my Z by replacing the guts with another clock. Worked really well but in the processes of hooking it up I blew a fuse. Was an easy fix. But while replacing the fuse in question I noticed that a number of the fuses in my Z were too big. (I.E a 10A fuse slot had a 20A fuse). Looking at the cover I went through ever single fuse and replaced them with the noted one. The last fuse on the lower right (closest to the door) I cannot read what it is supposed to be. It looks to me like it says 1A but I'm not positive. At the moment there is a 10A fuse sitting in t…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 6 replies
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Hi all, As information I want to replace the over cleaned and thereby worn off defrost grid on my back hatch but don't want to put in new glass to fix the grid due to expense. Examination of the grid with aluminum foil as a probe and an ohmmeter (I also used a wire tracer) revealed far more damage than could be repaired using the permatex bottle of conductive repair paint. I wrote to customer service at www.frostfighter.com who make replacement defrost grid kits and they told me this: my strong suggestion is to wait until we release our new grid sizes. Check the website as this is where these new sizes will show up first. I have no ETA from engineering other than…
Last reply by cygnusx1, -
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I recently changed spark plugs. I went to start engine with a no start Most of the modules last from six months to one year. Of coarse the module cost as much as a rebuilt dizzy I use to rebuilt the didtributor myself - lots of owners blame the problem on the pick up coil within the distributor Replaced distributor number 5 in 5 years Auto Zone Lifetime Dizzy E-85 module label is Nissan Installed rebuilt dizzy and engine ran 20 minutes then died with no restart. Went through entire coil, dizzy harness, relays. I am thinking another bad module?????? This is the only faulty component I have had on this 27 year old car. I took one module apart and it looked like a…
Last reply by threez745,
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